Windscreen frame crash hazard.

[mleadbeater]

hi

The screen frame on my TR2 has a narrow flange sticking out rear-wards all the way across the inside, the flange seems to have no purpose, but, to me this is a potentially lethal forehead-splitting projection in the event of a head on crash. This sort of projection is typical of cars of their era, and must have caused many serious injuries and fatalities before seatbelts became common.

I am wondering about removing this flange across the top of the screen frame.

Am I missing some function of this flange, anyone done this themselves?

I have fitted belts, but still feel uneasy about this.

 

Any other comments regarding improvement to the car's safety appreciated

Cheers

 

Mike

Edited June 26, 2015 by mleadbeater

[Don H.]

Maybe move to four point harness, or full racing gear. There's ZERO chance of eliminating -- or even significantly reducing IMO -- crash hazards in our sidescreen TRs. Metal dash, pokey switchgear, rigid steering column, no energy absorbing structures... and on and on.

 

Keep the car in good shape for active safety, drive defensively, and keep out of traffic as much as possible.

 

Use something else for most of one's driving to maximize safety. The other cars in my fleet all have modern safety stuff, including airbags and ABS.

 

I'm hoping I'll be thrown clear (!) in my TR, or least that it will be quick.

[vivdownunder]

The vertical tenon plates (flanges) either side of the windscreen are sidescreen stops. They position the sidescreens so the hood overlaps along the top to be as drip proof as possible. Without the tenon plates, stanchion to windscreen frame screws, unless shortened, would bite into the glass and break it.

 

The integral flange across the top of the windscreen should be covered by a rubber seal. It's there to stiffen the windscreen frame and for attaching the three hardtop hold-down brackets.

 

Collision injury risk in a TR is obviously much higher than a modern car on a number of levels - look at the doors and what would happen if T boned. No collapsible steering column etc. That said, in a collision I'd rather be in a TR than on a motor bike.

 

Viv.

[TR 2100]

Not saying it would make so much difference, but the flange

you describe should be covered as part of the seal to the top

of the windscreen.

(on hardtop models, the width of the seal was much reduced)

 

AlanR

[BrianC]

To be honest, if you are that worried about the windscreen frame flange then you really should consider whether the TR is the right car for you. There are plenty of more serious problems with TRs, especially side-screen models and you will never eliminate all of them but will always be afraid that you have missed or failed to deal with something life-threatening. I suspect this is of far greater concern to those relatively new to TRs and similar classics than to those of us who have become frighteningly blasé after living with the risks for much of our lives.
[sorry, I'm a dinosaur and don't want to encourage anyone to take unnecessary risks - just decide what is an acceptable risk before getting into the car or inviting passengers].

[Don Elliott]

You can see how the rubber strip acts as a "cushion" all along the top inside of the frame. This is from my 1958 TR3A (TS 27489 LO).

 

Also make sure if you're installing a new top seal to clamp the ends under the top of the tenon plates and then trim as shown.

 

Don't leave them sticking out like duck's wings as can be seen on the red TR3A in the Heritage Museum in Gaydon.

[Don Elliott]

This is what I meant about the Red TR3A at Gaydon. Don't do it like this.

 

Cheers - Don

[mleadbeater]

thanks for the replies, I am now confused as I may have fitted the rubber top seal the wrong way, there seems to be several sections of rubber available.

I have fitted the fatter round 'tube' edge at the front to obtain as good a hood seal as possible, but have now noticed the round 'tube' is in fact open at the 7 o'clock position, suggesting it should be fitted the other way round so the 'tube' curls over the inner screen flange.

 

Don's pic shows the seal fitted as I have, but much wider so as to come forward of the inner flange, mine must be a narrower version.

 

Just managed to finally finish the hood fitment as at last we had a sunny day here in York, although now raining again.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

[jdwtrxk]

The upper seals with the bit that wraps around the w/s flange are actually for later 3A's; through early/middlish 3A's the hoods (tops) had a seal of similar shape that was sewn into the hood and covered on the visible part with (typically) light tan moquette. Same color as the stuff glued to the top of the front hoodstick to reduce chaffing. When fitting the hood you had to run your finger along the seal to 'set' it. When the hood changed to the later style without this seal, the w/s seal was altered to suit.

 

People have used this later seal for years as it was the only one reproduced. The early one is now available. If unwanted skull/windscreen contact is a major concern, the later seal would help a bit i suspect, but not much. Almost better to fit a racing style 3 point harness? Bit of work but....

[vivdownunder]

John, thanks for pointing out 552422 early upper windscreen seals are now available. Can't recall seeing this part since Stanpart stocks ran out here in the early 70s.

 

Viv

[stuart]

Interestingly that seal is unavailable from Moss but is available from TRF https://gar.zeni.net/trf/trf_parts_results.php

Stuart.

[jdwtrxk]

My pleasure viv. The Roadster Factory has them here so I'm pretty sure they are available from other purveyors. Hope there's someone close DU as postage would be brutal

JW

[Rodbr]

http://www.leacyclassics.com/parts/triumph/tr2-4a/glass-glazing/554339.html

[rodofcv]

Hi Don, I owned the Gaydon 3A in the 70s. The windscreen seal was good then. You'd think that they could spare a few bob to put it right.

Cheers

Rod