mossc31 Posted July 16, 2005 Report Share Posted July 16, 2005 The handbrake on my recently purachsed 1967 4A will not hold the car on hills without massive effort which causes a problem as I live in the Chilterns and my wife is not as strong as me. I have checked everything out but all seems to be fine, does anyone have any suggestions or is this something I have to live with? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted July 16, 2005 Report Share Posted July 16, 2005 Hi there, I believe this a problem that's been experienced before and solved by lengthening, not the hand-brake lever itself - not very practical and quite visible, but the operating levers on the brake back-plates can be extended by about 1" and the angle of attack improved, so the start of the movement which requires less tension is taken up more quickly and as the levers approach the 90º angle apply around 30% more pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Lou Metelko Posted July 18, 2005 Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 Sounds simple but I have always had good luck setting the handbrake by pressing hard on the foot pedal while pulling up on the brake handle. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana USA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Bowden Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 Have you thought about changing the 4A hand brake lever for a TR5 or 6 one ? They are the more normal ratchet type rather than fly-off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 Apologies for reviving an old topic, but has anyone made-up and used the IRS handbrake cable lever extensions shown in Roger Williams' "How to improve TR2-4A" book? Whilst it is just about possible to get the handbrake on by applying the footbrake at the same time, it is still often difficult to release it without resorting to two hands (not always practical). If this mod works, I'm surprised no-one is offering it as a ready-made accessory. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 Check that the cables are in good condition and not snagging anywhere. I had the same problem on a 4a and replacing the cables for new ones fixed it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 Ive done this on my TR4 in an effort to get more leverage on the handbrake to lock the rear wheels on driving tests. It works very well as a 'parking brake' but the drum arrangement on the TR is not suited to locking up the rears ........ a hydraulic handbrake is the way forward ....... just not legal on historic rally events so a non starter for me ! Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 Cables are OK (or were when I looked at the last MOT) and working as I would expect. I can live with it as my previous TR4A was the same, but Lynda finds it a real problem. I'd rather fix her car than buy her a set of weights or body-building course. Ironically, I really wanted to get her a TR4 which would have avoided this particular problem but couldn't find one at the time (although she prefers the TR4A anyway - apart from the handbrake!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 I've had a look into this problem in my own sweet way and come up with two concerns 1 - the ultimate pull on pressure required to make the little devils hold fast 2 - Keeping the handbrake at this setting. 1. Using two hands can give an adequate pull on force for the brakes. By extending the little brake lever on the brake back plate by 1" as stated previously should reduce this pressure/force. The mechanics sound fine but don't forget the hand brake lever will have to move further also - probaly 25% more. Therefore very good adjustment of the brakes is essential but acheivable. I haven't tried this but am tempted. 2. The next problem is when you have the handbrake at the required position keeping it there. If the handbrake ratchet mechanism does not line up then the handbrake will move down to the next available slot thus removing some of all the pressure you have just strained to acheive. The reason for this is that the TR4a handbrake mechanism is not spring compensated (except for a very, very small amount of stretch in the cable). Making/fitting a spring compensator can be done (I've done it) and this ensures that the brakes always have a guaranteed amount of braking force whether or not the ratchet lines up or not. If constructed well it will hold either the force of one or two hands applying the brake. At the end of the day the brakes are not like modern ones but can be improved to hold you on most hills but do not forget they are very important and if you fiddle make sure you know what you are doing!!!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Cunnington Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 As a long time owner of a '4A and understanding fully the inherent problems of a not having a good handbrake - I can recommend the mods of extending the lever on the back plate as mentioned by an earlier poster and shown in Roger Williams "How to improve 2-4A" book. I have made and fitted a pair of these. It does improve the ease of getting the hand brake on and to some extent in holding the car on a hill. It is a good idea to make sure all the slack in the brake shoe adjustment in the drum is taken up so that you do use all of the effort you put into pulling the hand brake on to hold the car. I made these by cutting and welding up pieces of plate. It's not rocket science but straight forward basic workshop practice if you have the time and the kit. Even so I am surprised no supplier has come forward to offer these as items which owners could purchase and fit. The design has the benefit of being reversible - no item is irreversibly modified, if you don't like it they can be removed and the exsiting fitment can be used as before. Chris Cunnington Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted December 4, 2006 Report Share Posted December 4, 2006 This was the tip given to me by the MOT man a few months after I bought my 4A in 1969,........ completely disconnect the cables from the leavers and check that they both move freely, then adjust the break shoes as per the manual,......then and only then reconnect and adjust the cables to give a perfect hand break......... it works for me ........... Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted December 4, 2006 Report Share Posted December 4, 2006 This was the tip given to me by the MOT man a few months after I bought my 4A in 1969,........ completely disconnect the cables from the leavers and check that they both move freely, then adjust the break shoes as per the manual,......then and only then reconnect and adjust the cables to give a perfect hand break......... it works for me ........... Cheers Rob That sounds like a good starting point (and free as well) - not much point adding bells and whistles if the basics aren't set up right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XRichardM Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 As this thread has been going on for some time I'm probably a bit late to throw in my bob's worth but here goes anyway. After struggling with this problem for a time I was advised of a quick, easy and more to the point, effective cure by Keith from the North London chapter. It simply requires removal of the handbrake lever and re-drilling the hole in the lever where the compensator link pivots nearer to the main fulcrum. thus, at a stroke the leverage on the cable is increased hugely. The operation arc of the handbrake is increased proportionally but as long as the brakes are kept in reasonable adjustment it all works fine. A good yank on the lever and I can lock the rears on my 4A. Brill Richard M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 As this thread has been going on for some time I'm probably a bit late to throw in my bob's worth but here goes anyway.After struggling with this problem for a time I was advised of a quick, easy and more to the point, effective cure by Keith from the North London chapter. It simply requires removal of the handbrake lever and re-drilling the hole in the lever where the compensator link pivots nearer to the main fulcrum. thus, at a stroke the leverage on the cable is increased hugely. The operation arc of the handbrake is increased proportionally but as long as the brakes are kept in reasonable adjustment it all works fine. A good yank on the lever and I can lock the rears on my 4A. Brill Richard M Ha ! I'm in the process of fitting new cables to my 6. MOT next week. I shall do this tomorrow. Thankyou Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bazman Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 As this thread has been going on for some time I'm probably a bit late to throw in my bob's worth but here goes anyway. After struggling with this problem for a time I was advised of a quick, easy and more to the point, effective cure by Keith from the North London chapter. It simply requires removal of the handbrake lever and re-drilling the hole in the lever where the compensator link pivots nearer to the main fulcrum. thus, at a stroke the leverage on the cable is increased hugely. The operation arc of the handbrake is increased proportionally but as long as the brakes are kept in reasonable adjustment it all works fine. A good yank on the lever and I can lock the rears on my 4A. Brill Richard M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bazman Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 (edited) I know this is a very old post, but I wanted to endorse the Richard M modification to resolve the poor handbrake issue on the TR4A. I tried all the earlier recommendations (checking the cables/adjustment etc) with only marginal improvement, but re-drilling the hole in the handbrake lever, made a significant improvement. Well worth the relatively little effort. Barry P Edited June 11, 2011 by Bazman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MartinAndNeil Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 As this thread has been going on for some time I'm probably a bit late to throw in my bob's worth but here goes anyway. After struggling with this problem for a time I was advised of a quick, easy and more to the point, effective cure by Keith from the North London chapter. It simply requires removal of the handbrake lever and re-drilling the hole in the lever where the compensator link pivots nearer to the main fulcrum. thus, at a stroke the leverage on the cable is increased hugely. The operation arc of the handbrake is increased proportionally but as long as the brakes are kept in reasonable adjustment it all works fine. A good yank on the lever and I can lock the rears on my 4A. Brill Richard M I want to try this modification.... On the photo below can you please show me the best place for the new hole..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hothersall Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 I want to try this modification.... On the photo below can you please show me the best place for the new hole..... I to can endorse this method to improve handbreak application extenders are available on ebay, I have never tried them they look a bit expensive for what they are. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-2000-2500-TR4A-TR5-TR6-TR7-hand-brake-improver-/370637512879?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564bb7a0af John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
manray1 Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 I to can endorse this method to improve handbreak application extenders are available on ebay, I have never tried them they look a bit expensive for what they are. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item564bb7a0af John But they are very good and efficient. I have one set on my car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Hi M&N, the new hole goes midway between the hole for pivot pin #5 and the original clevis pin hole. This will double your braking effort and the lever extenders at the brake shoes will give another 33%. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 I think the guy who posted about using the footbrake first was onto something. This is a "fly-off" a handbrake and was probably designed to just lock the shoes in place. The shoe-springs are probably stiff to ensure that the shoes do "flyoff". We have probably all got used to handbrakes designed to act partially as an emergency brake so that they operate with just the lever. Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MartinAndNeil Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Hi M&N, the new hole goes midway between the hole for pivot pin #5 and the original clevis pin hole. This will double your braking effort and the lever extenders at the brake shoes will give another 33%. Roger Thank you Roger.......so just to be clear about where the join or weld line appears on the diagram. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 The join/weld line is a joggle in the two skins that make the handbrake body - the hole goes below the joggle towards the original clevis hole - half way between the original pivot and the original clevis holes. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MartinAndNeil Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 The join/weld line is a joggle in the two skins that make the handbrake body - the hole goes below the joggle towards the original clevis hole - half way between the original pivot and the original clevis holes. Roger Many thanks. I will report back next week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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