Jump to content

tr6 brake bleeding


Recommended Posts

I have just spent two hours trying to bleed my tr6 brakes. its a 100% new system and I started at the back longest run - and ended at the front . with out success so far!

question,, should the fluid level in the back circuit drop when you are bleeding the front? and vice versa?

its driving me mad so far. the entire system is new so it should not be a problem. I am using a vac bleeder and conventional methods.

any advice would be most welcome.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The small section of the reservoir closest to the front of the car feeds the rear brakes only and the large reservoir feeds the front only. It could be that you need to bleed the master cylinder by cracking open the unions to the pipes.

 

The other trick I found was that there was air (bubble) trapped in the bottom of the large reservoir in the small hole at the bottom. I found "ticking" it with a piece of wire I was able to get the air to come out.

 

Hope this helps

Bruce

Link to post
Share on other sites

hi will try to crack the unions tomorrow. and see how I get on. thanks bruce

Link to post
Share on other sites

Try pressure bleeding. Gunsons Easibleed uses the pressure from a spare tyre to force fluid through the system at about 15psi. The Easibleed reservoir keeps both parts of the master cylinder full throughout the process. It's worked for me on many different classics, including my TR6.

 

 

Nigel

Link to post
Share on other sites

And don't forget Stuart's magic broom trick to eliminate any air left in the system :-)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Another trick I 'learned was to pump the brakes and watch the master cylinder for air bubbles. I did this on my GT6 and was amazed at the amount of air expelled out of the cylinder.

+1 on the comments about vacuum bleeding. I tried this on my E-Type's dual system and frankly it was a complete waste of brake fluid and time. The main problem was that the suction seemed to pull the fluid stream apart mimicking air in the system. I ended up using my trusty hose fitted with a non return valve- works every time.

if your interested there's a thread on the E~Type Forum website about using a large syringe to bleed the brakes via the master cylinder. The author swears by it.

 

Cheers

 

Alan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bought an ezibleed. . Result ! But pedal still goes to the floor! Having systematically bled the brakes 4 or 5 times. I now suspect a prob in the master cyl.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the tipping valve is faulty allowing fluid back in to the resovoir when you press the pedal. hence pedal goes to the floor. also should the levels in both chambers go down when you are only bleeding one end?

its a trw unit. and a few of you say they had a problem with the dual master cylind

ers a few years ago around the time I bought mine!

I have a trw rebuild kit and a genuine girling old cyl in good nick . I could rebuild a hybrid cyl that works!

any comments most appreciated

Edited by nuts and bolts
Link to post
Share on other sites

just read Buckeye triumphs pages on brake cyl probs. seems I have a tipping valve failure on a brand new brake master cylinder!

so a drain down and a strip down is in order... grrrrrrrrrrrr!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the tipping valve is faulty allowing fluid back in to the resovoir when you press the pedal. hence pedal goes to the floor. also should the levels in both chambers go down when you are only bleeding one end?

its a trw unit. and a few of you say they had a problem with the dual master cylind

ers a few years ago around the time I bought mine!

I have a trw rebuild kit and a genuine girling old cyl in good nick . I could rebuild a hybrid cyl that works!

any comments most appreciated

Sounds as if you have one of the duff ones. Bin it completely and send your original off for rebuilding properly, the TRW kit wont do it. These guys do a good job http://www.pastparts.co.uk/

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

result! I have a pedal!!!!! it was a very badly machined tipping valve base plate.

the sealing edge was rough and angular so the fluid leaked back in to the resovoir ,and not a bit like the nicely machined radiused base plate I swapped out of my old one.

I used just the base plate and put a new top bit in as well . you can keep your foot on the pedal for 60 seconds and it holds position fine.

thanks for all the help guys. Richard.

Edited by nuts and bolts
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.