nuts and bolts Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 I have just spent two hours trying to bleed my tr6 brakes. its a 100% new system and I started at the back longest run - and ended at the front . with out success so far! question,, should the fluid level in the back circuit drop when you are bleeding the front? and vice versa? its driving me mad so far. the entire system is new so it should not be a problem. I am using a vac bleeder and conventional methods. any advice would be most welcome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brucer Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 The small section of the reservoir closest to the front of the car feeds the rear brakes only and the large reservoir feeds the front only. It could be that you need to bleed the master cylinder by cracking open the unions to the pipes. The other trick I found was that there was air (bubble) trapped in the bottom of the large reservoir in the small hole at the bottom. I found "ticking" it with a piece of wire I was able to get the air to come out. Hope this helps Bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuts and bolts Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 hi will try to crack the unions tomorrow. and see how I get on. thanks bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brucer Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Make sure you have ample provision to trap the fluid that will come out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Try pressure bleeding. Gunsons Easibleed uses the pressure from a spare tyre to force fluid through the system at about 15psi. The Easibleed reservoir keeps both parts of the master cylinder full throughout the process. It's worked for me on many different classics, including my TR6. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 I've tried using a vacuum pump on a completely empty system with very poor results. A combination of Ezibleed and good old fashioned pedal pumping eventually did the trick. Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 And don't forget Stuart's magic broom trick to eliminate any air left in the system :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Another trick I 'learned was to pump the brakes and watch the master cylinder for air bubbles. I did this on my GT6 and was amazed at the amount of air expelled out of the cylinder. +1 on the comments about vacuum bleeding. I tried this on my E-Type's dual system and frankly it was a complete waste of brake fluid and time. The main problem was that the suction seemed to pull the fluid stream apart mimicking air in the system. I ended up using my trusty hose fitted with a non return valve- works every time. if your interested there's a thread on the E~Type Forum website about using a large syringe to bleed the brakes via the master cylinder. The author swears by it. Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Silicone bf in particular will 'boil' dissolved air off under vacuum. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuts and bolts Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Bought an ezibleed. . Result ! But pedal still goes to the floor! Having systematically bled the brakes 4 or 5 times. I now suspect a prob in the master cyl. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuts and bolts Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) I think the tipping valve is faulty allowing fluid back in to the resovoir when you press the pedal. hence pedal goes to the floor. also should the levels in both chambers go down when you are only bleeding one end? its a trw unit. and a few of you say they had a problem with the dual master cylind ers a few years ago around the time I bought mine! I have a trw rebuild kit and a genuine girling old cyl in good nick . I could rebuild a hybrid cyl that works! any comments most appreciated Edited June 2, 2015 by nuts and bolts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuts and bolts Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 just read Buckeye triumphs pages on brake cyl probs. seems I have a tipping valve failure on a brand new brake master cylinder! so a drain down and a strip down is in order... grrrrrrrrrrrr! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 I think the tipping valve is faulty allowing fluid back in to the resovoir when you press the pedal. hence pedal goes to the floor. also should the levels in both chambers go down when you are only bleeding one end? its a trw unit. and a few of you say they had a problem with the dual master cylind ers a few years ago around the time I bought mine! I have a trw rebuild kit and a genuine girling old cyl in good nick . I could rebuild a hybrid cyl that works! any comments most appreciated Sounds as if you have one of the duff ones. Bin it completely and send your original off for rebuilding properly, the TRW kit wont do it. These guys do a good job http://www.pastparts.co.uk/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brucer Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 +1 for past parts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 +3 had exactly the same problem... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuts and bolts Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) result! I have a pedal!!!!! it was a very badly machined tipping valve base plate. the sealing edge was rough and angular so the fluid leaked back in to the resovoir ,and not a bit like the nicely machined radiused base plate I swapped out of my old one. I used just the base plate and put a new top bit in as well . you can keep your foot on the pedal for 60 seconds and it holds position fine. thanks for all the help guys. Richard. Edited June 2, 2015 by nuts and bolts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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