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K&N Air Filter fitting problem to Pi

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When fitting a K&N airfilter to a standard Lucas injection system I am having issues with clearance due to the throttle linkage being in the way.

 

Has anybody else come across this problem and how did you get over it?

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Hi i have these fitted to my CR TR6 car, can you take some pictures of where the clash is taking place. I can then take some pics of my set up for you to compare.

 

 

Hope this helps

 

 

Andy

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Use a standard fit K and N filter, the one that actually fits into the air filter box and job done.

Alan

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Not sure where yours are fouling or what filters you have, You need 3 of them, a filter per throttle body.

 

This was a pic of my setup. Standard PI linkages etc.

 

IMG_0613.jpg

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Hi Andrew,

It looks like the 6 sections of rubber secured with Jubilee clips that I need.....approx. 30mm long

 

Can you remember what you used? or is it a recognised part?

Thanks

Simon

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Not sure where yours are fouling or what filters you have, You need 3 of them, a filter per throttle body.

 

This was a pic of my setup. Standard PI linkages etc.

 

IMG_0613.jpg

I've always liked the look of this setup but was concerned that the hot air off the exhaust would affect idling/general performance?

 

I recently installed a digital thermometer pickup in the plenum chamber and in traffic the intake air temp gets up to beyond 70c! But quickly returns to a little above ambient once moving.,

 

I have a k&n replacement for the original air filter which works fine.

 

Decisions decisions !

 

Steve

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I've always liked the look of this setup but was concerned that the hot air off the exhaust would affect idling/general performance?

 

I recently installed a digital thermometer pickup in the plenum chamber and in traffic the intake air temp gets up to beyond 70c! But quickly returns to a little above ambient once moving.,

 

I have a k&n replacement for the original air filter which works fine.

 

Decisions decisions !

 

Steve

Stick with what you have, your temp readings have answered your own question.

Stuart.

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Quick clarification question here for one who is still a little bit of a n00b in the ways of fueling...

 

My 6 came with a conical K&N mounted on the end of the plenum & she runs like a pig when hot & sitting in traffic (pertronix, seems to be a good spark etc etc). Settles down once up & running. I've idly wondered about whether I'd be better off returning to the original pre-radiator drum intake bc I figured there was a reason why they built them that way & cold air etc. Could this actually be the reason she's so ornery in traffic?

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Quick clarification question here for one who is still a little bit of a n00b in the ways of fueling...

 

My 6 came with a conical K&N mounted on the end of the plenum & she runs like a pig when hot & sitting in traffic (pertronix, seems to be a good spark etc etc). Settles down once up & running. I've idly wondered about whether I'd be better off returning to the original pre-radiator drum intake bc I figured there was a reason why they built them that way & cold air etc. Could this actually be the reason she's so ornery in traffic?

Could well be. If the intake rises from 20C to 70C then air density drops about 11%:

http://www.ce.utexas.edu/prof/kinnas/319lab/Book/CH1/PROPS/densgif.html

The PI is normally run rich at low loads to avoid pinking upon flooring the throttle, so the lower air density

may make it over-rich.

Peter

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Quick clarification question here for one who is still a little bit of a n00b in the ways of fueling...

 

My 6 came with a conical K&N mounted on the end of the plenum & she runs like a pig when hot & sitting in traffic (pertronix, seems to be a good spark etc etc). Settles down once up & running. I've idly wondered about whether I'd be better off returning to the original pre-radiator drum intake bc I figured there was a reason why they built them that way & cold air etc. Could this actually be the reason she's so ornery in traffic?

 

I have the pre-radiator intake canister and recently changed my air filter. All seems good to me, but this thread made me wonder about the different setup Andrew has on his car. Are there perceived/actual advantages to this setup over the original?

 

Darren

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Removes the lean rear problems, sounds great when giving it the boot. and tidies up the engine bay.

For a bit of help I ran a length of 3" tubing from the front to the area. Wont give alot of benefit when sitting stationary, but might assist when moving.

 

TR6EngineBay.jpg

 

Ive seen pics of race cars with a tray separating the inlet and exhaust to keep the heat away, but horses for courses and all that.

 

Never had any problems with my setup running rich or anything and we have far hotter weather here than over there!

 

For a comparison Steve..whats the ambient temp in the engine bay of the air? (same conditions, just the temp probe outside the intake tube)

 

Just wondering as 70 degree air in a heated up tube vs. larger mass of free air from the engine bay? It will be warm, but I wouldn't be surprised if the difference wasn't that large?

Edited by AndrewP

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Very interesting topic, thanks’ a lot for the contributions, experiences sharing, comments… I am thinking about the original conf vs the K&G and again and again… for a street/road usage I may stick to the original configuration like when I bought my PI CP in '86 (W/o the K&N System, w/o the Oil feed kit - Rocker gear, w/o the Oil cooler kit, w/o the Sport tubular manifold, w/o the Bosch Pump + diaphragm PRV, w/o the Injector Pipe Stainless Steel Braided, w/o the Rocker Cover & Cap - Alloy …..).

 

Nevertheless I still considering few improvements like reinforcement chassis kits (Lower Wishbone Brackets and Axel mounting), Solid (or very hard poly bush) Steering Rack Mounting Kit, Telescopic Shock Absorber Conversion (Type 3), Poly bushes, Rear anti-roll bar…. Plenum water drainage Hose adaptation….

 

Regards

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For Andrew P

 

I have the same set up as you on my Car and have a question regarding the rocker cover breather connection.

 

Like my set up, you show small additional filter in one of your images and you seem to at a later date converted to a pipe split by Y connection. Did you add this install oil catch tank ? as this is something i have been considering as some oil drips from filter attached directly to rocker cover.

 

 

Would appreciate your advice on this one

 

 

Thank you

 

Andy

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Andy,

 

This is perhaps a better pic.

 

I think it was Stuart who pointed out that leaving out the flame trap is potentially bad news, so the red flying saucer is back in circuit on this one.

 

TR6%20Engine.jpg

 

The y-piece feeds the oily air from the crank case back into the two end filters, and therefore back into the engine to be burnt. I drilled a small hole in the filter and then used a 90 degree barb fitting (from garden reticulation) to push into the rubber body, then connected the breather pipework up.

 

BTW, I had a vacuum gauge connected up to the booster take off point for those who saw the brass reducer fitting.

 

Cheers

 

Andrew

Edited by AndrewP

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I've not measured ambient engine room temp, I too suspect it'll be pretty much the same as in the air chamber.

 

The temp gauge is off the car at the moment, I've reverted to standard instruments now I understand the temp, and voltage, peculiarities of the car :-)

 

The only symptoms I get when the temp goes up is a rougher idle, the car never misbehaves not even with the fuel gauge approaching the two dots at empty.

 

Mind you, turning left with an almost empty tank does relate in a brief loss of power ;-)

 

Steve

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hi Andrew, just reading the k&n thread with interest as I too am having difficulty adding the last filter to the 3rd body . I have a 125 bhp 1974 tr6 . the picture of you set up is slightly different if I am reading it right as the first cable on the left seems to ve the accelerator cable and the 2nd cable assume us the choke. this is in reverse fir my model. so question is the configuration core t and if so how do you get the filter on the third unit nearest the radiator as the filter interferes a lot with the cable plate.

adam

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One thought Adam

 

A lot of people run without the choke cable connected at the throttle bodies, just using the enrichment cable thats connected to the mu.

 

Aside from the need to hold the idle on the throttle for the first minute or so the cable isnt necessary

 

Its removal might allow you to fit the filters more easily?

 

Steve

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Adam

 

For three years I had the three K&N filters in place with standard linkage on my CR model, I found it could be difficult to start when hot without choke applied. About one year ago I purchased an original Plenum and fitted single K&W filter on its end, its definitely better at Hot starting now.

 

 

 

Hope the picture helps

 

 

Andy

post-13335-0-94896900-1508421245_thumb.jpg

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All previous pics have disappeared into the Black Hole that is Photo bucket, on only by he last to go on. By putting individual filters on exact TB, you lose the advantage of cool air to the intakes. The air will be hot from the radiator, less dense so less oxygen for combustion.

 

I put a large, cylindrical K&N on the front of my blenum tube, so that it sits to the side of the rad, in a street of cool air.

John

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Use a standard fit K and N filter, the one that actually fits into the air filter box and job done.

Alan

I've done the same.

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