TR5tar Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I've been reading some of the threads relating to batteries today, as I'm thinking of upgrading mine. There's lots of information on the subject, but I'm still unsure about what is best. I see that "CCA" seems to be one of the most important things, so I was looking at batteries that are good in this respect.I found this one: https://www.tayna.co.uk/Optima-Blue-Top-Battery-BT-Slim-4.2-P436.html It's the correct size (almost - about 4mm deeper) and correct terminal layout, but it's CCA is 815 A instead of my current 570, and it's 50 Ah instead of the AH (20h) I have. And so I thought it might be a good upgrade. It's pricey, but if it's a good battery I don't mind so much. So my questions are: Is it OK for my TR5? Are there any drawbacks (other then the extra cost) of having a more powerful battery? Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Stick an 097 in it preferably Varta job done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Hi Darren, I use a Halfords HCB072 http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/bulbs-wiper-blades-batteries/batteries/halfords-calcium-battery-hcb072--4-yr-guarantee and it works well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 069 battery will work perfectly well Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 097 ? If you want round terminals, 096 . . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 097 ? If you want round terminals, 096 . . . . . Cheers Alec Your the tech man Alec but http://www.europeanbatterysupplies.co.uk/index.php/yuasa-professional-097-car-battery.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 4wiw, why not save some money on a traditional battery and buy a geared starter, they are so much more efficient. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 4wiw, why not save some money on a traditional battery and buy a geared starter, they are so much more efficient. Mike Not so and sound **** Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Big batteries are heavy and are located very high in the car. Get the "correct" one and keep it in good nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Really, why? the advertising blurb typically claims: Approximately twice as powerful as the original. Consequently, they run faster and start the engine more easily. They draw about half the current of an original starter putting less strain on the battery and electrical system of the vehicle. Weight can be reduced up to 50% from conventional starters. The starters are usually smaller and easier to fit than the standard starter motors. Increased reliability due to use of modern materials and components. Can't say sound is an issue to me, but each to their own. Mike Edited April 29, 2015 by mleadbeater Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 HI Mike, on the surface of it the modern starter motor is a winner. All modern cars have them and they rarely fail. I've had two and both failed in the first three years. The autoleccy that rebuilt them was astonished at the rubbish inside them (plastercein bearings). The rebuilt motors are running well now. They do have a tinny noise to them though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Show me a modern one that fully engages with the ring gear ( None) you only have to look at the mesh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Roger, youve got me worried now, I think I fitted a Powerlite to my '2, maybe I should re-instate the cranking handle, anyone else have bad experiences of these? I agreee that the old Lucas motors had a satisfying low whine to them, but if it don't start the motor then an 'appealing' sound is not much consolation.. What brand were your 2 dodgy ones? Neil, interesting comment, is poor engagement due to a design fault, eg is the pinion out of alignment at full 'motion' or, due to insufficinet pull of the mechanism ( is it a solenoid which moves the pinion into mesh?) or what? Cheers Mike PS what did they replace the plastercein with, playdough? ( only kidding) Edited April 29, 2015 by mleadbeater Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Never had a problem with the high torque motors, depends on which one you buy........! Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Never had a problem with the high torque motors, depends on which one you buy........! Tom You will Tom in the end I have fitted the so called best never again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Most of the modern starters engage wrongly with the ring gear and will do damage eventually and they sound awful as a result as well. As Roger has found out the ones flogged by most arent very well made. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Hi Mike, one was definitely a WOSP the other was from the TRShop with a known maker on it (may have been WOSP again). The old boy that rebuilt them used quality bits out of the bottom of his baccy tin and are doing the job. Playdough my ars* Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Getting back to the original point, the link that Darren posted is for an AGM battery. I know that these require a different charger, maybe they require a different alternator? Optima batteries are popular for electric powered vehicles so I suspect they deliver their power in a different way to a standard car battery. I can recommend Bosch. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted April 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Thanks for the suggestion of the 097 Neil, the Halford's option Roger, and the 096 Alec. These part numbers are a bit confusing to me, because when I look at batteries online I don't always see these numbers quoted. Tom's suggestion of the 069 fits with what I already have, but I've not found one with a much higher CCA rating than I already have. From other threads I've taken that the higher the CCA the better, but perhaps I'm mistaken. Thanks for your observations Jerry. That was what I was getting at with my original post - i.e. would an AGM battery be OK? Is it possible to go too high with CCA? What I want is a battery with a high CCA rating, with dims. of approx. 255mm(L)x165mm(D)x200mm(H), with round posts, positive on left when looking back from in front of the car. That Optima battery I linked to seemed to fit the bill, but from what Jerry says it may not be OK for my purposes. Any other recommendations that fit my requirements? Thanks, Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Think the one that is installed in the Transit Van is approx what is required,sorry don't know the Specs but maybe it might suit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 I have the OPTIMA in use since years. The quite small one drives the Rover V8 very well. But the blue one is mainly for marine application, the yellow keeps the power for an extended time and is often use for car HIFI application but also suitable as starter and the most often used as a starter battery is the Red Top. I combined it with the new cables to minus and to the starter: I took larger cables from HIFI, very flexibel and soldered steel cap ends to suit 7/16" bolts. The result is really impressing! I have the geared starters in use and already lost one. They are from poor quality but light weight and as nothing is for free the less current must be paid with pretty less rotating speed what can be a problem with hotter cams and plenum manifolds with a single throttle plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) Darting back to starter motors briefly, I have had two fail within 5 years in my Jeep Cherokee - 1st was Bosch, 2nd was Lucas. The Bosch had lasted much longer than the Lucas (100K + miles) so have now replaced with another Bosch - fingers crossed. I bought a geared motor for a TR3 off ebay last year (for spares or repair - it was cheap) on inspection the brushes were worn out. Tried to find replacements - " sorry mate these are exchange units only - no spares available" Re being "more powerfull, & draw less current" power = volts X amps you cant get somthing for nothing. Less current = less power. I will be sticking with my Bomb type motor which spins the engine over quite fast enough (with a good battery) Note. If your old type motor is cranking slowly, but battery is good - check the brushes in the motor, there are 2 pairs, & it will turn if one pair is worn out, but it will turn slowly. Bob. Edited April 30, 2015 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Darren I bought a new battery last year, following the advice from this forum. Basically, it was, CCA 1st. For what it's worth, this is what I got and it works a treat, 620cca / 68ah http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2057872.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=Pline+069+069%2F069+12V+68AH%2870AH%29+Battery+069%2F069+LAND+ROVER+TOYOTA+MITSUBI&_sacat=0 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks or your battery recommendations Andreas and John. Looking at the link you sent John, I see a number of batteries listed, but I assume it's the Lucas one that you are pointing me to, right? Interesting that there is also a red top Optima one listed with a CCA of 815. Knowing very little about electrics, I'm just worried about whether having too powerful a battery might cause problems. Maybe I'll give Tanya Batteries a call and ask what they think. Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 I actually got the Powerline one, but any would do. CCA; Cold cranking amperes (CCA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 0 °F (−18 °C). The rating is defined as the current a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). I went from 250 cca to 620 cca, so I am pretty sure that 'too powerful' does not enter the equation Our cars just need more current to turn them over, which can lead to a weak ignition supply and weak spark If any of the above is inaccurate, there are better minds than mid on the forum that can put us both on the right track Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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