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Gearbox or clutch woes


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Out in the 6 first time this year, all running fine until pulling away from junction. Nothing hectic just normal driving. Slight squeal and rumble on drive take up, possibly from release bearing ( not heard before), 100 yards on no drive to rear wheels. Coasted to a halt.

Engine running fine, clutch still requires force to depress, gears can be selected with or without clutch depressed, but no drive available to fear wheels. Car can be pushed 'in gear', no engine break.

I'm a little stumped as to what this can be. I suspect it's a gearbox out what ever, but any thoughts would be much appreciated.

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Probably one of the few remaining 6 rivet clutch plates just failed, there was a spate of them a while ago and most have been replaced after a failure like yours, box out job Im afraid.

Stuart.

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davidM,

Welcome to the forum, your first post and answered in the first reply !

Gearbox comes out through the cockpit so the car doesn't have to be raised much, just enough to manoevre a trolley jack under the gearbox and to support the rear of the engine.

Check out other threads emphasising the importance of the dowels to keep the box aligned.

And the better clutches.

Peter

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I would suggest it's a chance to upgrade clutch actuating mechanism. Double bearings for the operating shaft, roll pin/bolt in clutch fork, nose polish.....all on the buckeye triumph site and very worthwhile.

Simon

Edited by simonjrwinter
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Thanks guys for all your inputs. Tried searching forum before posting but failed to find anything similar. 'Six rivet clutch plate' did just the job and the symptoms described pretty well match exactly.

Stuart, many thanks for the suggestion and I'm sure your right.

Peter, many thank you for the welcome and help.

Stan, hadn't heard of shipwrights disease before, will get inoculated before starting!

Simon, thanks for the buckeye tipoff, great reference site.

Now off to the garage.

Mark.

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When you remove the tunnel look at the outside of the gearbox and OD for oil leaks - get them sorted at the same time.

 

Removing/fitting the gearbox can be a one man job, however it is so much easier with two.

 

Do not to forget to check the taper pin on the clutch operating fork - replace with a good quality item,

Many members also fit another bolt/roll pin at 90 degrees to the taper pin 3/1/5mm just in case.

 

Fit the best release bearing you can find. The Moss RHP works for me, others have other ideas.

 

Roger

 

PS - are you Dave or Mark?

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