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Uprated front hubs


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Guys need your opinions on, if the uprated alloy front hubs deliver any benefit, I see there appear to be 2 main types on offer one using standard stub axle and bearings the other using bigger stub and bearings. I know that they will both deliver a benefit in reducing unsprung weight, but given I'm not racing the car will I actually notice the difference behind the wheel ? Thanks Graham

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Very wise not to expect benefits from reduction in unsprung weight.

It's enough to make a cat laugh when you read of drivers of 1000kg sports cars with relatively crude suspension thinking that a reduction of the equivalent of a few bags of sugar from unsprung weight either from hubs, disc callipers or magnesium wheels or even all together on a corner of the car will make any discernable difference to the handling. The reduction of weight upon cars both in sprung and unsprung weight needs to be considered as a factor of the car as a whole and as a package, just fitting them in isolation may make you feel better but will offer very little betterment on the road.

 

Given the limitations of the Triumph specified components (they were after all trying to make money from a business building mass market cars) I believe the upgraded stub axles and componentry will help prevent disc flex back and allow greater safety rather than relying on 50 year old components.

 

Mick Richards

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If you are going to change them anyway then the larger stub with the different bearings is the better bet.

Stuart.

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I changed the front Hubs and stub axles last spring to uprated ones from Classic Driving Developments.

 

Very pleased witht the uprated stubs which deliver a much more consistent brake pedal, which I put down to removal of stub axle flexing.

 

Getting the old stub axles out was 'fun' but the job was easy apart from that.

 

HTH

 

Steve

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I doubt very much that stub axles flex more than nanometers, and not enough to cause a long brake pedal.The taper rollers are the culprit in brake pad 'knock back'. Best seen after reversing at full lock.

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Peter May be right!

 

The combination of the new thicker and higher tensile stubs, and the new and larger bearings has resulted in a much more consistent brake pedal :-)

 

( ps the old setup was standard, with timken bearings so not cheap rubbish)

 

Steve

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I've recently fitted the combination of alloy hubs and thicker stub axles to my racing TR6. Used car in first 2015 event last weekend. No pad knock back at all, very pleased.

I had the anti knock off sleeve on the old standard stub axles and that worked well but was a bit of a faff shimming the bearings to get it to work. Together with the better larger modern bearings replacing the original standard small outer bearings, which I felt compelled to change every season for peace of mind, I feel that they are a worthwhile modification.

 

Dave McD

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+1 for CDD.

 

This solves the pedal travel problem and clearly the new diameter stub axle and bearings are the size that the car should have had from the start.

 

Also, as noted above, they are shiney... What's not to like?

 

 

Andrew

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  • 2 years later...

Hi all

 

I'm uprating my Front Hubs as part of my 4A full restoration. Looking at the pictures from 4 suppliers TRGB, Moss, Rimmers & CDD I can see little fundamental difference between them, so the question please, is there any difference or are they all made by the same manufacturer? As of this moment the items are in Rimmers sale with £67 reduction, any reason I shouldn't fill my boots? Thanks.

 

 

Ian

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The CDD ones arent very well engineered , also supplied by Rimmers, you need to find a set that have the bearings with the internal seals. The Moss kit is much better quality, they are the ones I fit.

Stuart..

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Thanks for the positive comments Stuart.

 

I guess like a lot of changes rung on our TR's they are done out of personal choice because the option is there to be evaluated and taken up if it floats your particular boat, irrespective of whether it is right or wrong for 99.9% of us.

 

I'm sure the ST engineers were in the main very smart people, which makes one wonder why the front suspension mounting brackets were ever held on with one bolt.

 

Ian

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I'm sure the ST engineers were in the main very smart people, which makes one wonder why the front suspension mounting brackets were ever held on with one bolt.

 

Ian

 

The ST engineers were good... but human, plenty of other instances abound of their products being less than perfect. But to be fair we are judging product from the wrong end of the binoculars and 65-40 years of use ! If you asked ANY current manufacturers engineers if they would be happy under the same circumstances they would say "you betcha", I am aware of course that the suspension mounting bracket problem you mention was prevalent into the 70s and has cause some nasty on road accidents.

 

Mick Richards

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Ref. The suspension brackets were they ever subjected to a recall?

They were changed at TR5 production, not sure if there was ever a recall on 4a though.

Stuart.

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I highlighted the single bolt mountings to a (non register) 4a owner while discussing the differenceces between 4 and 4a and suggested they might consider updating. Their response was to point out that the arrangement was entirely safe as it had been fine since 1967 and had a current MOT????????????

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I highlighted the single bolt mountings to a (non register) 4a owner while discussing the differenceces between 4 and 4a and suggested they might consider updating. Their response was to point out that the arrangement was entirely safe as it had been fine since 1967 and had a current MOT

You cant educate stupid.

Stuart.

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