roocarl Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Well missfired a bit yesterday then worked fine , started missfiring today then refused to start , fresh fuel coming through but no spark , I have AA cover so called for a tow the chap was quite excited and really wanted to fix it but zero spark , rotor arm and dizzy cap are good tried a new HT lead and zilch :-( it is running a Lumenition conversion which I am guessing may be at fault and the AA guy agreed unless you guys can think of anything else ??? Hopefully you can still get them ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTerry Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Ignition switch's known to fail, try jiggling it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 I think I'd go back to points. Then run it for a bit and see if the problem has gone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Did you try your spare coil mounted on the inner wing as per your picture? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 the lead from the coil is not pushed home into the coil. Â ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Hi Carl, the lumention unit can fail but it is never usually intermittent (and they normally last for many any years) . There are cheaper items on ebay (£30ish). To eliminate the ig switch try running a cable direct from the battery to the coil.  Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Witness Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Coil on the block gets large heat soak when the engine's warm and can cause issues, I had this with this scenario when I got my car. As above I'd go back to points and fault find from the coil working forward to the plugs. Â Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roocarl Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Just got back in , Thanks for all the sugestions I tried again after leaving a few hours , still nothing so not heat soak, I tried the other coil , tried jiggling the ignition switch , I tried 2 HT leads I had not pushed back in properly on the pic , I asked the previous owner about converting back to points but he said he removed some of the internals of the distributor so not straight forward , does anyone know what I would need to convert back ? Â Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) Fitting the magnetronic shouldn't involve removing internals other than the condenser and points. There's a peg on the baseplate that might have had to be trimmed but that shouldn't stop the reinstatement of points. You'll also need the points to side terminal wire and its terminal. Give it a try and you'll finger or exonerate the magnetronic, one way or the other. Â Another way to go might be to get hold of one of the cheap eBay distributors and try that for a while. They're not as bad as some people make out. I used one while my original was with the Distributor Doctor. Edited April 9, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roocarl Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Cheers PeeJay worth a try I wil, order a set Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Carl. I edited my post as you were replying... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roocarl Posted April 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 I have swapped the coil over so many times I am doubting myself if I put the wires back , can someone confirm the black and red from the electronic ignition are going to the plus and minus on the coil and the wire coming out of the loom is going to the + on the coil ? , i will order points and condensor to try , with the original set up is there still wires going out to the coil from the points ? ( its been a while since I replaced points ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 Hi Carl, +ve white wire to coil, Black -ve wire from coil to contact breaker post on the dizzy body. This wire is insulated from earth all the way to the CB. It is the other half of the cb that then earths it. Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 The wiring looks correct Carl. On points you'll have the White wire from the loom in the same place. The red and black to the magnetronic will be gone. Then you'll need a new wire from the - terminal on the coil to the new spade terminal on the distributor after you've put the points back in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roocarl Posted April 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 Thanks guys fingers crossed , correct me if i am wrong again been a while , I fit points then rock car in gear till shaft of distributor at highest point then set point gap ? ( actually does anyone know the correct gap ) ? I love this forum such helpful people , hopefully with a bit of enthusiasm and advice I will get it sorted soon :-) just shame it stops working when the weather has finally come good lol ..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 That's right. 15 thou. You might find it easier to turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, or with plugs out you might be able to turn it with the fan belt. Don't forget the internal lead part number 600329A which goes from the contacts to the side of the distributor and has a male spade connector which then goes to the coil - terminal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 I find the engine turns V easily with the plugs out using the fan for purchase Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roocarl Posted April 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 I just asked the previous owner who replied - Â "When I fitted the Luminition kit it consisted of cutting off the peg the points sit on so if you changed back to points you would need a new base plate, also electronic ignition runs on a high output coil and also hotter plugs so they would need changing" Â So I might as well just buy another electronic ignition as I am guessing the Points need that peg to work :-( Â One thing I did notice when it was not firing was I lost 3 cylinders as I tried removing plug leads one at a time , 3 made no difference the other 3 did and stalled the engine , not sure if that points to the ignition unit ...? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 I think the one piece points will fit OK. Points will work fine with the coil and also the plugs although why he fitted hotter plugs I don't know. Maybe to combat plug fouling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cew Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 (edited) Before you start changing the ignition system I think it may be better if you try and eliminate the plugs as the problem .It should be relatively easy to try each plug for a spark,the usual way by removing one at a time and holding against the block to see if it sparks. If you do this with each plug with the relevant lead for each cylinder i.e use all leads,it should tell you that the Lumenition is doing it's job properly,it will also tell you if the plugs are good. If as you say three out of six weren't working that looks suspicious. My car has a different Lumenition to yours,I have the Optronic version and I have not had a problem in 7 years of ownership. Edited April 10, 2015 by Cew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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