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Hi Everyone

 

I wonder if anyone has any advice on how to 'draw in' new wheel studs. I have started the process of exchanging my steel wheels for wire wheels and after reading various advice I have purchased new shorter wheel studs. I am doing other work as well and have a drive shaft on my bench. The old studs knocked out ok, however I have rounded 2 nuts off trying to draw the new studs home using the nut and couple of washers method. The studs are still 2mm high on the back of hub flange assembly. I only have spanners and ring spanners. Is there a method of gaining sufficient purchase to tighten the studs all the way home. I want to get this right before I attempt the other 3 corners.

 

Cheers

 

Shaun

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You only need a spanner.

Either the packing washers are not big enough diameter to go over the stud shank, not deep enough so the nut is getting to the end of the thread, or the new studs have a deeper head form than the previous ones and they are not designed to sit flush.

Jerry.

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Shaun,

 

I have just fitted new studs to a pair of new drive shafts that I have installed on a TR 250. I drew the stud in initially with nut and spanner, then pressed the stud in further in the vice. On the car then torqued up to 60 ft lbs which pulled them in a tad more. They are well in, although I believe the head chamfer won't allow them to sit fully flush.

 

As I have got wire wheels, I needed to shorten each stud by a couple of mm to ensure clearance when the wire wheels are fitted.

 

As part of fitting the new axles, I took the diff out and torqued up the two inner axles, plus changed an oil seal. Both axle nuts were quite loose and with some Dexion restraints managed to tighten these to over 100 ft lbs (they quote 120 in the manual).

 

Took for a spin around the Surrey lanes this morning; great to have eliminated irritating clunking from the back axle!!

 

Jerry West

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