eda73194 Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Hey all, newbie on the forum here. I've been helping a friend of mine restore a TR6 that hasn't run in years, and I've mostly cleaning parts. We finally went to try and turn it over the other day and the engine cranked no problem, sounded healthy but we weren't getting a spark. Tested the coil for continuity, 1.5 ohms so no problems there. I have some experience with working on cars but I'm no expert so if anyone can shed some light that would be highly appreciated. I suspect there's an issue in the wiring, there are a lot of "Jury Rigged" connections. The car had an aftermarket stereo and I suspect they spliced into the wiring harness. I've tried to make my way through the schematic in the car manual but with no luck, to my eye it looks like it doesn't even match up to the way its laid out in the car. Attached are some pictures I took as well as a video of us attempting to start the car. Any feedback is appreciated. Imgur Picture Album: http://imgur.com/a/C6pL0 Video of attempt to start car: http://youtu.be/qyUGesF66to Thanks -Eric P.S. If anyone is in the North Jersey area and would like to take a look let me know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Hi Eric, welcome. Have you jury rigged a lead from the battery to the coil to give 12V that you can rely on. Having said that should your car have a ballast resistor for normal running.!! Have you got normal contact breakers in the dizzy or are you on Electronic Ignition. Put contact breakers in for the time being. If you have new contact breakers in give the contact faces a good clean. Have you wired the contact breakers correctly Give it a go. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
eda73194 Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Hi Roger, I haven't tried the direct connection yet, when I go by the garage later tonight I'll give it a go (I'll make sure we don't run it without the ballast for long though). As for the dizzy, its original to the vehicle, no electronic ignition system and no new contacts. The old ones were relatively clean, so we just wiped them down. As far as wiring them is concerned (I assume you mean the orange tension lines going to the spark plugs?) we labeled the leads with tape before we did the engine tear down and put everything back on as it originally was. Is there an objective way that I can test if the wiring is correct? Thanks for the warm welcome! -Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Here is a good thread for the firing order (I have a 4A so haven't a clue) http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/16574-simple-q-firing-order/ The search facility may give you other clues. I was thinking of the LT wires inside the dizzy rather then the spark plug leads. change the capacitor in the dizzy - laying dormant doesn't do them any good. If you have other capacitors on the coil (for suppression) remove them. Good luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTerry Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Check the coil is wired to the correct ignition switch contact. It's easy to confuse the accessories contact with the ignition contact. The accessories contact is switched to the off position by the action of engaging the ignition contact (when you get the spring resisted full turn against the key) but the starter motor will still spin, and off course when you check the wiring all seems OK as then the accessories contact will be 'live' again as no longer in the spring resisted position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 You have new fuel for the carbs? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
eda73194 Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Thanks everyone for the input! Just an update, having tried several of the suggested fixes (I ended up not being able to work on the car until this week) we found the ground connection (LT wire) inside the dizzy had been corroded inside of the insulation, no continuity. I'm not sure how that happened but I'm glad we found it. After rigging a wire to ground the engine coughed for the first time! Not much luck after that so we're going to pull apart the distributor and just replace everything we can, condenser, wires, points etc. since just cleaning it up doesn't seem to have been sufficient and hope that some other dodgy connection may have been contributing to our problem. Any and all comments are welcome and again thanks for all the suggestions for troubleshooting, otherwise I'd be stuck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 As John says above, are you using fresh petrol? Any old fuel over 6 months, won't work. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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