REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR

[WELLSY]

Thinking of fitting a rear anti- roll bar to reduce roll .Has anyone fitted one ? Can anyone recommend a supplier? I have uprated lever arms.

Wellsy

[TriumphV8]

Rear anti roll bar not only reduces roll but also understeer,

or if done to hard, causes oversteer.

Also it is accompanied with a slight more wheel spin out of corners.

 

Many companies offer two solutions:

Either fit a small rear bar and leave the rest as it is

or take a bigger one for the rear and change the front to a bigger, too.

 

I did the last and have the race at the front and have them all in PU bushes.

Nice to drive but a bit special, I use that with only 0.5 degree negative camber.

 

The German TR-NORD offers a solution that lines inside over the diff,

less visible and not low under the frame.

If I remember correctly they have both solutions, harder and softer.

 

As its not rocket science and most are connected same way under the frame

I would try one out if the solution over the diff is not the topic.

 

Always the connection at the levers in the hole under spring is a bit nasty.

There is room for improvement, one TR of mine has a plate bolted in

what make it look and work better but as the other TR had a bar already fitted I left

that as it was with the two shims over and under the big hole.

 

I would recommend to add a bar and test the different behaviour

of the car on a wet parking place, less understeering or even oversteering

needs a quicker hand to avoid spin the car.

[jerrytr5]

Probably the best handling improvement you can make to an IRS TR.

As said, fitting one will probably need a larger front arb to match.

Ones that fit under the chassis will reduce ground clearance and careful spring selection is required to avoid it whacking the tarmac.

Moss used to sell one (may still do) which I have, but you need to throw away the fittings as they are pants, and make your own. Chassis fittings are off the shelf but fixing to the trailing arms require a bit of fabrication. I used front arb drop links with a couple of plates sandwiched under the spring.

Over the chassis versions (a la Revington) may require the body off to fit and possibly also require the coil over shock conversion as I think they connect to the TA using the (unused) damper fixing - check with manufacturer.

Places like Merlin Motorsport can make up custom bars and supply the fittings.

Well worth it - you will not be disappointed.

Jerry

[harrytr5]

I have been on the track following Jerry and he is quick and knows what he is doing.I on the other hand think I know what I am doing.I have fitted the trick stuff to my TR5 at great expense and due to various problems have started to remove the said trick stuff and replaced with standard.Did not notice any difference driving around SPA last year (the year before trick stuff).I have kept the four pots and vented disc,s as they do work with no fade.Power steering is still brilliant. I go as fast as I dare on the track days but not brave enough to go 10/10ths like others. Most of my driving is on real roads and I like the ride I have now. Triumphs knew what they were doing and there is not a lot wrong with it. Okay poly bushed as the norm with modern materials and EFI, but my personal choice of what I have done to my TR5.My other TR5 is fully rebiult to factory standard and will be interesting how that drives when the warmer weather arrives.This is my own personal feelings and choice and would not want to decry anything you want to do.It is our wonderful hobby after all said and done.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter.