RogerH Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi Folks, tomorrow I will start on the renovation of my Surrey rear frame. Before I attack it and do some damage has anybody got views on the rubber seal that goes around the rear glass. Do they fit? Any particular supplier? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Only the Moss one, it looks to be too long when you put it round the glass but that is correct, the excess needs to be at each end down in the corners so when you fit it it the rubber will push right down into the corners. Its not 100% correct as you will find it ripples slightly in the top corner insides but until they do another revision of the mould then its as good as it gets. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowric Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Roger - Tr Bitz fitted mine using a Moss seal and gave me the same advice ont he correct seal (I ordered the bits for them). Fitting glass being beyond my ability. However the moss seal did leak rather a lot and I used some of that Indasa windscreen sealant to seal the glass in which has done the trick nicely ! Although my fingers got thoroughly sticky and black.. Snowy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Yes you do need to use some sealant around them, usually in the corners and round slightly into the flat section. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi Stuart/Richard, thanks for that. Then it is off to Moss in the morning. And then attack the frame in the afternoon. Fitting the screen doesn't frighten me - I'm already resigned to the fact it will break but it is worth a go. The front screen went in OK. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andy Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi Roger The Moss ones do fit but the profile for the plastic/chrome trim insert is incorrect,my windscreen fitter did new rubbers front and back and had a right job with the insert, heating it etc to fit but doesn't sit flush,got it as good as he could but not perfect,have fun. The Duke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi Andy, I fitted my front one last year and as you state it is larf. My thumbs were sore for days afterwards. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 as Andy says the plastic/chrome trim has a different profile than the groove in the rubber and the trim will stay proud by 1-2 mm no matter how hard you try to press it in the rubber and the amount of soap/vaseline you apply. No need to start @#!@ around, it won't change anything Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi Stef, If I want to @#!@ then i will I often @#!@ just because I can. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Be careful with the laminated ones as they will not give at all if the frame is slightly out. I bought a s/h toughened one and it went in and I helped the fitter with his weighted bag to bash it in. Regards Harry. P.S. Bully was in my garage last weekend and I like the turned frame tensioners that you made Roger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi Harry, I'm hoping that glass that comes out will go back in with not tooooo much TRouble. Those tensioners have created quite a bit of chaos in 'how to erect your roof' . Do you have fixed nuts and slide the frame sideways to tension the fabric. or Do you adjust your nuts to get the tension. I am of the latter persuasion Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Nobody believes me, but you put the finisher into the rubber before fitting to the frame. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I tried that but the finisher was too stiff, even when soaked in hot water, and once you get the KY all over the place it was even worse. Roger, if I was able to get the backlight window in without breaking it I'm sure you can. I found it much easier than the front windscreen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi Alan, I always thought the gap that the finisher sits in allowed more flexibility to the rubber to allow it to fit easier. However I am coming around to your way of thinking and I may give it a try next week. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Roger, if I was able to get the backlight window in without breaking it I'm sure you can Hi Pete, what are you doing next week Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I found that the rubber kept jumping off the glass unless I put in the finisher. Put the rubber of the frame and mark the sharp corners with Tippex. Make two bits of MDF or such a bit bigger than the corners. Clamp the rubber around them so it gets the idea of going into the corners. These corners are the only real problem, The rest is just soap and string. If you break it, so did the pro I used to do mine the first time. But there were many deepsh scratches in it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi Folks, I shall worry about the glass in a week or so. The frame is off the car and I've started removing the paint (sanding disc). Where the obvious corrosion was there is typical corrosion damage to the parent material. However where the paint looked in good order much of the underlying parent material is discoloured - corrosion starting. When the paint is removed I shall get it grit blasted to remove as much surface corrosion/paint residue as possible and then I shall investigate coating with Alocrom 1200. There is a company in Uxbridge that has a dipping process. Back to the garage now. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi Folks, apart from grit blasting has anybody got any ideas on how to neutralise deeper seated (inter-granular) corrosion. I know that baking soda has some effect - but how much effect!!! When working on the aircraft we tended to cut out/remove corrosion rather than neutralise insitu. Alochrom 1200 is good for protection but I am not protecting it at present until the corrosion is gone. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YankeeTR5 Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) Naval jelly, generic term for a phosphoric acid based treatment, works well at neutralizing rust leaving without chewing thru the metal. I'm sure there are lots of other different commercial products that will others will bring up. Edited February 7, 2015 by YankeeTR5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi Yankee, Phosy is good on rust but the rear surrey frame is Ali. Does phosy work on Ali alloy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YankeeTR5 Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Sorry, forgot we were talking about the frame, not a steel surrey piece. No, won't work on aluminum....not to my knowledge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Hi Roger, best way of cleaning up Ali is a hot solution of Oxalic Acid, (boiling up with a bunch of Rhubarb leaves works well), best way I've found is in the dishwasher with Oxalic Acid instead of dishwasher powder, (SWMBO has to be away for the weekend while this experiment is going on!!), I've had a gearbox case in our dishwasher!! ..... none of this helps with the Ali frame( too big for the dishwasher!!), so some form of abrasive/blasting media method is probably your best choice. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Bead or vapour blast is the best thing to do as anything else tends to be too aggressive. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Hi Rob, I would like to see the dishwasher that the frame fits into - wow. Hi Stuart, not sure what my man has but I'll be seeing him tomorrow/Wednesday. I had words today with my metal treatment man. After the blast cleaning I shall be getting the frame Alocrom 1200 coated. This will retard the progress of corrosion in the iffy areas and should give good protection to the existing good areas - £30. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Roger once its cleaned off then a coat of paint does just as good unless you are leaving it in bare. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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