kevin bryant Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Well with compression down in two pots it looks like it's engine out and rebuild ahead of the new season for my TR3A It's a 1991cc. I assume it'll cost at least £1000 in parts to increase it to 2138cc. Worth it, or just stick with what we have and get that working as best we can? Anything we should do? Not do? It has electric fan one end and lightened flywheel the other end. The car is run on standard tyres, but is used for sprints, hill climbs and historic rallying. That said I also want to be able to use it for touring on the road. We went to southern France in 2013 and had a great time. Your suggestions and comments please. regards kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 150ccs at £7 a cc? Sounds a lot for a little. After that, what do I know about TR3As? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Hi Kevin, If you are planning on replacing the pistons and liners anyway, then my opinion would be increase the capacity. I'd also be adding a nice torque-focussed cam - the type of engine spec I'd aim at would be similar to Ian C's 4VC or North London Mike's LNK. Both of these seem to be great to drive and not in the least bit "temperamental". My engine is a broadly similar spec, but wasn't built in the UK (obviously) so you'd likely get more detailed and practical guidance from folk over there. I presume that you're running H6 carbs...? I can't see any reason to change those for this type of spec. if you don't want to. Others may disagree but (again, in my opinion) unless you go for a real fire-breathing race spec, pretty much any "reasonable" TR engine spec will quite happily tour large distances in a docile fashion. My "road rally spec" engine took me 4,500 miles on a rally this summer, followed by a further 4,000 home to Toronto. This included 16 days running well over 10 hours a day and averaging something around 50-60 mph (including fuel, lunch and coffee stops). True, I did blow a head gasket but that was not the engine's fault - that was a combination of a stripped distributor clamp bolt and carelessness on my part. If you're NOT planning to replace pistons and liners anyway, then I guess it depends on how much fun you're having with it now and whether 1,000 pounds is significant to you... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevin bryant Posted February 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 Tim, Many thanks. The engine will be off to the engine builder next week so we'll wait and see what he has to say about the state of the internals. I am looking forward to having a few of the missing ponies returned to where they belong, under the bonnet. regards kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 If it ain't broke don't fix it! The point being that if it has been able to achieve everything with 1991 why make it more complicated? From observation cars are quick when driven with skill rather than powerful engines- I am sure you have noticed As soon as you change things there is a cascade of other unforseen expenses If £s are a controlling factor you might get away with new rings rather than what ends up as a complete engine rebuild - which is what happens when I "look" at something to check it If you want to "advance your car" then the specialist TR firms will delight in taking your money and providing you with all sorts of alternative "added value" bits , but when all is done the car might be less tractable and less fun to drive The more I rallied (not very successfully) the more standard my car became Either way - good luck and happy engine building I am quite local to you and contact me if I can help Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) Kev Michael post is spot on take note remember a car is prepared to achieve a goal at the end of not just one race. Edited February 7, 2015 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Teriann Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 First, pull the head to see if your problem is a cracked head or burnt valves. No need to pull the engine if your compression loss is in the head. If your head is in good nick maybe you just need new rings and can reuse the pistons & sleeves. If you need to replace them, are your competition classes seperated by engine size. Right now you are under 2L. Would being over 2.0L put you in a different class? That might be a deciding factor in what to look for. I don't know about the UK but 83mm pistons are very hard to find in North America as they long have been superseeded by 86 & 87 mm pistons & sleeves. If you need to replace the pistons it might be cheaper to go with 86 or 87s. I prefer 87 mm Hepolite pistons and sleeves myself. If you replace the pistons don't forget to balance the rotating bits. If you need a new head I recommend the latest TR4A head with oversize exhaust valves. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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