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Hi everyone. I've just been fortunate enough to acquire a one owner 34500 miles 1973 TR6 1500PI

 

It'd been in the guys collection which he's decided to breakup. It's a little tatty ie paintwork faded and a veiw surface rust flakes. but crucially the body work is all original and no major rust anywhere. Underneath looks like it just came out of factory.

 

What I'm hoping for is some advice on tickling it up a bit. I've already ordered a polybush set as all the rubber bushes are perished and thought about refurbing the whole suspension. The back end seems really soft and bouncy especially. Not bothered about track work but do like a bit of spirited shady lane driving.

 

It's been stood for a long time and has quite a bad misfire often running on less than 6. Advice here appreiciated.

 

The brakes are just about none existent again from not being used. Thought I'd just upgrade the pads and maybe the discs. what are other people's ideas.

 

That's enough for now I don't want to put everybody off on my first post.

 

Cheers. Alan

Edited by Jimmyjazz
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Hi everyone. I've just been fortunate enough to acquire a one owner 34500 miles 1973 TR6 1500PI

 

It'd been in the guys collection which he's decided to breakup. It's a little tatty ie paintwork faded and a veiw surface rust flakes. but crucially the body work is all original and no major rust anywhere. Underneath looks like it just came out of factory.

 

What I'm hoping for is some advice on tickling it up a bit. I've already ordered a polybush set as all the rubber bushes are perished and thought about refurbing the whole suspension. The back end seems really soft and bouncy especially. Not bothered about track work but do like a bit of spirited shady lane driving.

 

It's been stood for a long time and has quite a bad misfire often running on less than 6. Advice here appreiciated.

 

The brakes are just about none existent again from not being used. Thought I'd just upgrade the pads and maybe the discs. what are other people's ideas.

 

That's enough for now I don't want to put everybody off on my first post.

 

Cheers. Alan

Hi Alan, welcome to TRing and congratulations on your purchase.

Sounds like you got a good plan going.

I would replace all fluids and flexible brake and fuel lines and then methodically go through everything, especially the ignition. Use the search facility as there is plenty of answers here regarding your injection running.

Good luck

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Hi Alan,

you have quite a few little problems there.

Why not repost each item separately so that good detailed answers can be understood clearly without confusion with other items,

 

Anyway, do the simple things first -

Spongy rear end - either get the rear dampers rebuilt or fit new ones. Replace like for like - not expensive.

 

Brakes - as the car has been stood for a while you may find that the/some front brake calliper pistons are stuck/seize - strip down front and rear brakes - clean and sort.

 

Roger

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Alan

 

Congrats on the acquisition

 

Lucky man who is guaranteed many smiles in the future after driving the TR

 

Brakes, pull the front calipers off and inspect, suspect they need a full overhaul as the dust boots will be perished and the cylinders could week need replacement. Rears check the cylinders for leaks and refit / replace. New fluid obviously.

 

Missing, check the injectors for spray pattern ( easy to pull them out with engine running and pop them into a glass or plastic jar to confirm if they are spraying, spluttering or blocked) if spluttering or blocked point it upwards and tap gently with screwdriver handle or something similar until they spray ( regular conical spray). Keep fire extinguisher handy - unlikely to be needed but can't be too careful, or have someone else on hand to turn car off.

 

Check fuel pressure, check leaks from metering unit ( possible perished O rings due to lack of use)

 

Flush cooling system, replace all hoses - including heater hoses both sides of firewall!

 

Flush oil, possibly drop sump and clean out inspect everything ( should be ok with so few miles).

 

Replace heater valve

 

Then drive it like you stole it

 

Enjoy

 

Graze

Edited by Graze
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Hi Alan,

Welcome.

34k miles !! You have a rare beast there. Its patina of age makes it a rarity, so dont rush in to 'restoration'. Try to keep ot looking its age.

And keep the old parts you remove, for reference. ( eg those radiator hoses may be originals).

Take advice for here on how to preserve the paint and stop superficial rust spreading where it has flaked.

The soft rear end might be factory-standard springs.

Peter

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from one newbie to another.... welcome....

 

much more work than i have to do...you will find a very helpfull bunch here..

 

good luck

 

Nick

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Such a fantastic welcome, with great advice and encouragement. I've found the braking problem this afternoon, seized front Calipers so there off to rimmers for exchange as I'm Lincoln Newark based. I'll put a few pics up over the weekend. Can't stop smiling as to how factory it looks underneath as well as all the other watch points. I'll dig into the fuel system next.

 

If anybody is in my area and would like to drop over and give me some advice they're more than welcome. Drop me a PM.

 

Many thanks again, I've started the journey.

 

Alan

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Welcome Alan,

 

Sounds like an excellent car.

As others have said, go through it methodically, and it will reward you with many miles of fun. Try to rush or skimp and you may have issues down the road. A "proper job" is the way to do it.

Best of luck

 

Simon

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................ I've found the braking problem this afternoon, seized front Calipers so there off to rimmers for exchange ........

 

Alan,

 

If the car is as original as you believe, then I would suggest repairing the calipers yourself (not a difficult job) or having them reconditioned, at least that way they'll stay with the car they belong to. But I suppose it all depends on how original you want to keep it.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Hi Alan,

I would agree with Andrew on renovating/refurbing your parts. Quite often the new parts aren't as good as they appear compared to the original item.

 

If you can get your calliper pistons out then inspecting the bopre for corrosion is easy. If no corrosion then fit stainless steel pistons.

 

Whatever you buy make sure it is the same as what you have - brakes are serious things.

 

Roger

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Alan,

The underside and that original looking mild steel exhaust suggests to me that you have found a 'survivor car'.

http://classiccars.about.com/od/whatmakesitaclassic/fl/Survivor-and-Preservation-Class-Cars.htm

Pity the original exhaust clamps have been replaced.

Peter

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So had a day gently delving into the car. Removed the seats and the hood. Unfortunately the carpets are pretty rotten, very brittle and quite damp in places. Not sure I can preserve these. Nothing is jumping out at me besides needing some doors seals here and there. Not sure what to do about the hood. It's definatley original but has a small tear in it on the drivers side and you cant see through the windows. Do I try and restore ie replace the windows with clear plastic, patch the hole or just get a new roof and put the original away.

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Hi Alan,

a new roof will cost a few bob and may or may not fit well.

 

The tear can be repaired quite easily - what are you like at knitting.

 

The plastic windows may be recoverable using a special polishes for such a job. Have a look through the search facility (top righthand corner).

There has been quite a few threads about 'milky windows'.

 

Roger

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Alan,

 

I'm inclined to think your car is a Sep/Oct 72 build (73 reg) as it has an inertia cut-off fitted and believe it to be Mimosa yellow (code 64 (72-73) not Saffron (54 (70-72) - what is the paint code and registration?

 

If the roof has the embossed Vybak markings in the side windows and washing instructions on the rear screen as below then it's factory original and worth saving if at all possible. If not, then it's been replaced at some time.

 

10947200_10203888519068576_7719988205892

 

10352288_10203888519348583_3900374254435

 

 

Cheers

Andrew

 

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As Simon notes + 2 for Saffron. Excellent colour Jimmyjazz here's hoping you keep it in that colour which has become pretty rare over the years as the majority have now been painted red! Your TR looks very similar spec and age to mine which is a late 1971, CP54529-O, and is of course still Saffron.

 

cheers

 

Derek

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