How to remove the idle measuring valve? (On TR6 CR)

[Wilfried]

We want to move the idle measuring valve from the second balance tube to the first balance tube (and do other improvements). The valve seems to sit very firm in the aluminium body. Is this valve glued-in? Is there any trick to get it loose. Heat it up? Or just brute force?

Wilfried

[TriumphV8]

Hi Wilfried,

I follow your attempts asking myself if to tell that this will end with no success.

I tried a lot with my EFI and found the main influence is injection timing at idle.

 

If you are talking about two air lines than you have a CR that has already improved

interference between the cylinders. For not perfect sync these lines will

give good air compensation between cylinders at part throttle.

If that works and it does it will also provide much more compensation than required at idle.

 

The problem with CP and CR in my personal opinion is that with good connection

between manifolds all cylinders get the same air but with wilder cams also the

disturbing from pressure waves/pulsation at idle rises.

So the CR with the milder cam benefits but the CP needs better isolation

and therefore only has one line.

 

The brass valve is simply pressed in, when I got mine out

there was something at the brass looking like locktite.

 

We changed that hole to M16X1,5 Banyo for combination with 1/2" rubber hose

There we have an idle control valve with stepper motor and have full control

for cold start and stable idle.

 

Would be a good idea to have those banyos at both sides (as you will not believe me)

and connect them to one hose via T-Piece that guides into one adjusting valve

that can still be the old brass valve you already have.

[Wilfried]

Hi Wilfried,

 

So the CR with the milder cam benefits..

 

The brass valve is simply pressed in, when I got mine out

there was something at the brass looking like locktite.

 

Hi Andreas,

So it is brute force to get the brass valve out! Thank you!

 

Today I have been machining two new "needles" (the tip of the 9/16" scew) for the existing brass valve and for a new brass valve that I will machine tomorrow. I have changed the "slope" of the needle from 30 deg. to 12 deg. in order to make them less sensitive.This means that I will have to turn the valve about twice the amount to change the flow than was nessessary before. In my opinion, these valves are too sensitive.

The two valves will be equipped with little filters and get the air from "outside".

End of the week we should get the parts from Prestige to get rid of the old system of interconnecting the butterflies.

Finally we are replacing the spark plugs by a new set of 3-electrode plugs (NGK BUR6ET) which we all (?) seem to agree will further improve the running of the engine.

Wilfried

 

 

[SpitFireSIX]

On 1/21/2015 at 7:55 AM, TriumphV8 said:

SNIP

Would be a good idea to have those banyos at both sides (as you will not believe me)

and connect them to one hose via T-Piece that guides into one adjusting valve

that can still be the old brass valve you already have.

SNIP



 

Hi,

 Could you not have just backed the idle screw out more and use the existing 1/2" barb?
Banjo sounds good for clearance issues.

Yea, I know the post is old.

Cheers,

Iain.