peter.goreham Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi, Interested in obtaining a cold air box to fit my Weber DCOE (TWM manifold) converted TR5. Has anyone either sourced or fabricated one? This would need to be for the TR5 or early 6 with the 'short recessed' wheelarch. Certainly, Revingtons advertise one for the TR5, anyone got any experience with these. I also know that Goodparts do one that they say doesn't fit that style wheelarch. Look forward to an avalanche of ideas. Happy New Year to you all Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) Hi, Interested in obtaining a cold air box to fit my Weber DCOE (TWM manifold) converted TR5. Has anyone either sourced or fabricated one? This would need to be for the TR5 or early 6 with the 'short recessed' wheelarch. Certainly, Revingtons advertise one for the TR5, anyone got any experience with these. I also know that Goodparts do one that they say doesn't fit that style wheelarch. Look forward to an avalanche of ideas. Happy New Year to you all Peter Peter The goodparts one refers to the 250,you should have no problems with a 5,imho the Revington one looks poorly made.ie http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=SE37T54SRT238KH8EPFB771LLF9X0R89&CarType=TR5&ProductID=RTR4423 Edited January 2, 2015 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuHomer Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi Peter, I'm not sure if the Goodparts one would fit with the brake servo in the way on RHD cars, it might foul on the rearmost carb, but drop Richard Good an email, he's really helpful and supplies stuff to Australia as well as the UK and may know if it's been done. I agree with Neil on the Revington one, it's not very pretty either! I've been mulling this one over myself and I'm thinking I may make one myself to better fit the available space, and follow the shape of the injection air box with a curved top section. Regards Stu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 The TR250/5/6 through '71 wheelarch poses a fatal challenge to an airbox for DCOEs. I've pondered this for 20 years and haven't come up with an elegant solution. A modification to the notch in the arch can be done which will fool most observers w/r/t originality and might enable a proper box ( if barely ) and still require an inordinate amount of bends and curves at the inlet end. I do have a NOS RH wheelarch for later TR6 which provides ample room for an airbox which anyone could design and have fabricated. PM me if interested. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Tom Click this and then look at 250 pic http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-576478 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) ROSS makes nice parts but you have to find somebody to weld. Edited January 2, 2015 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuHomer Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi, In a rare moment of forethought I did a little extra metalwork when the car was stripped and with the help of a grinder, a piece of 18swg steel and a length of scaffold tube formed a deeper recess by about 1 1/2" and welded it in, only took a couple of hours and gives me a little extra space to play with, apart from that rearmost bit. But apparently a taper in, away from the inlet end, aids airflow through the air box by maintaining velocity, it also means the 38mm air horn can be used with enough clearance on the face. Regards Stu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks, Neil - but the 5/250 RH wheelarch says NLA and redirects to the later TR6 version . Unless the quality has improved in recent years, the NOS examples are much much cleaner at the seams. Stu, what you've got now looks like the later TR6 arch. Here's what I was referring to earlier, which allows 38mm trumpets too: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 The 5 should be like this and requires no mods for webers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 I have the standard arch in my driver ( not shown ), and with MISAB plates and 18mm trumpets the 2-1/2" filter in front rubs slightly on the wheelarch at the end of the notch. I've done everything I can to try and nudge the engine a little farther away too. With paper gaskets instead of the MISABs, or with 1/8" O-ring grooves cut into the manifold where the carbs interface they wouldn't rub ( I had such a manifold when using a narrow port head, now gone ). With shorter filters there should be no interference, but I wanted the longest ones I could fit. It took a slight modification on the other car's arch to make the problem go away, but even with it the prospect of a nice airbox is fraught. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy3 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Same problem, different car. I have fitted EFI to my TR3A and the same problem exist, the inner guard. I have a pair of Jenvey 45mm (Weber replacement) duel throttle bodies fitted to a Weber manifold. I fitted a 40mm deep PiperCross filter Which did the job but I wanted a cold air box. After a bit of research on Dr Google I decided to make my own. The easiest way was to make up a extruded polyurethane life size model and cover it with fibre glass. There are any number of u tubes on this process. The process is easy, took me about one and a half hours to make the model. The foam cuts and sands easy and you can keep checking for fit and size as you go. Then cover with glass. I picked the foam out of the finished item but you could use thinners, petrol etc to dissolve it. In my case I used the Piper Cross backing plate to mount the air box as I already had it but it would be a simple task to make one from aluminium sheet. After sanding down and cleaning it up I painted with crackle black (hides all your sins). Works and looks good, at least I think so. total cost, about $30.00 plus your labor and the backing plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 That looks pretty good, could be ex-works 50 years later..... What EFI is in use, does it manage the ignition, too? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy3 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Same as you, Megasquirt. An MS3X. Fully sequential, wasted spark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Pretty good stuff! I have the MS2 in use, nothing sequential. I am coming from the MS1 I bought in the early 2000th for my RoverV8. Do you think I can get your ignition table as we are converting a TR4 to mappable ignition and that would help as a starting point? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy3 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I started with a MS2 V3 build it yourself about 8 years ago. then upgraded to MS2 Extra then to MS3X last year. Went IBT last Sept. I just like fiddling. This is my msq. I am still tuning but it is going well and my track times are good....for me anyway. My comp is 10 : 1. oops it will not let me attach a msq file or the table. I will try to screen print and send that. Have to work out how first.....never had any success with it before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 PN sent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Here' s the Revingten airbox on my TR6, must say was, as I had to remove it because it became boiling hot. First tried to isolate it but envain. In addition I had to cut slots into the trumpets to allow to insert the bolts. Unfortunately a few hundred pounds thrown away. Went back to the good old Piper Cross foam filters with a own designed air inlet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter.goreham Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Hi Guys, Many thanks for the posts. If I really want the cold air box it looks as though it's going to have to be a 'home-made' system. I think it will have to be a flat back plate and a shaped front box as Trumpy3's offering (not sure mine will look so professional, but we live in hope!) Special thanks to Jean for the pic and comments for the Revington box. Must admit I always thought it would be a bitch to fit. I'm slightly surprised that heat was such a problem. I know that aluminium is much more conductive than steel but still surprised that it was such an issue. Jean, any chance of a pic of your system as it is now? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) Hi Peter, The purpose of the airbox was in fact to route cold air to the injection, here, in my opinion the airbox did the opposite and yes it was a crime to fit and remove it. So I went back to the Piper Cross filters. The inlet was a DIY of domestic ventilation pipes shaped to size and coated in fiberglass to follow the TR6 grill opening. You might notice the self made heat shield protecting the inlets/manifolds from excess heat radiation Edited January 13, 2015 by jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 i am thinking of using cooker hood ducting 200x100mm and cut up which goes up to 100 deg C fitting a heat deflector on the bottom Should channel cold air form the front through a K&N filter into the triple dellortos probably going to be this winter job as its in getting other things sorted a the moment david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WELLSY Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hi Peter, Attached are images of my homemade system . Mild steel box with a detachable ali cover. Fed with cold air via cone filter and original hose. Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Simon Now that's a proper airbox giving enough room for the correct ram pipes well done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 thats what i want excellent cheers david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 The point with the large airbox is that it's filling up all the space and in so far catching all the heat from the manifold. Not much cold air will reach the carbs, same as Revington. Trumpet size was no problem on my airbox and the are welded into the box. In so far the design is very good. The problem lies in the top cover that makes it almost impossible to fit the bolts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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