bcthom Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Hi all, hope you are having a good Christmas/New Year I have owned my TR2 for about 2 years and it generally performs well. There is one niggling problem. After a longish run on a hot day the engine will not restart if left for a few minutes. It will usually restart ok immediately after stopping or if I wait for 15 minutes or more. Sometimes priming the carburettors by operating the manual fuel pump lever will help. I assume that too much heat is getting into the carburettors and causing fuel vaporisation. I notice that the insulating blocks between the carburettors and the manifold appear to be made of aluminium which surprises me because I expected some material with better insulating properties. Maybe some PO has put the wrong part in. What should the insulator be made of? Some owners fit a metal plate between the inlet and exhaust manifolds, should I consider doing this. All comments/suggestions gratefully received. Bryan New Zealand Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Hi Bryan ~ The insulating blocks should not be aluminium. My 3A has the 'composite' type insulators fitted. Check the specification of the insulators in any TR parts catalogue. HAPPY NEW YEAR ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hubball Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Bryan When I worked at SU Carburetters we bought them in for gasket kits and I think they were made of asbestos which the ones on my TR4 are made of . I will have a look and let you know. Cheers Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Bryan ~ The Moss part no. for the insulating blocks is AHH 5713. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hubball Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Bryan Checked my car and have found a NOS one in my spares stock they are definitely asbestos , probably now illegal . Cheers Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 When you stop with the engine hot, just release the bonnet catches so that the front edge of the bonnet rises slightly - this will allow convection to drive the very hot air out of the engine compartment and permit cool air to enter from under the car. Don't forget to close the catches before driving again! This is easier on the TR4 onwards, as the bonnet release is inside the car. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Bryan ~ I improved the engine bay cooling on my 3A by creating two extra vents in the bonnet as per the original TR2. If you'd like to see a photo. of the mod. then please PM me your eMail address. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcthom Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Thanks all. I will get insulators from usual suppliers. Thanks Tom for cooling vent suggestion. Car is due for a repaint soon so will probably do it then Bryan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Do these 'gaskets' really reduce heat transmission that much ? I need to also get in past the cowl, hoover tubes have been suggested, but not sure what to attach to to any hole i cit in the (cardboard) cowl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Austin If you are talking about cold air pipes from behind the grill and through the air duct, I used swimming pool pipes as there is a union on the end which does not pass through the duct wall. Incidentally my duct is 2mm thick aluminium plate, and the pipes are directed in the direction of the carb inlets and lashed in, place away from the heat source. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 The heat build-up rarely affects sidescreen cars as it does the later cars (TR4/4A especially). If fitting the carb spacers doesn't cure the problem, try the well-copied Reg Woodcock racing mod of fitting packing pieces under the bonnet hinges on the bulkhead to create a full-width gap to let hot air out of the rear of the engine bay. I have never understood why Triumph changed from 4-slot to 2-slot bonnets. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 The heat build-up rarely affects sidescreen cars as it does the later cars (TR4/4A especially). If fitting the carb spacers doesn't cure the problem, try the well-copied Reg Woodcock racing mod of fitting packing pieces under the bonnet hinges on the bulkhead to create a full-width gap to let hot air out of the rear of the engine bay. I have never understood why Triumph changed from 4-slot to 2-slot bonnets. I think the 4 slots were reduced to 2 to stop rainwater dripping on to the top of the battery. Here is brother's TR2 bonnet - We made these packers 25+ years ago when he started Hill Climb and Sprinting in the car. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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