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Dash capping details


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If you can get hold of the bolt in version of those short flat topped LTD fasteners then use them all the way round the rear from the "B" post back as they are better if you ever wanted to fit a hard top.

Stuart.

 

Stuart, thanks for that detail. I do want to make provision for the hardtop. Here is the assortment of bolt on style in my box, various peg length and bolt lengths.

 

IMAG0186_zps8eb75ed7.jpg

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Thats handy that you can get hold of the flat topped ones, The bolt lengths will depend on what they need to go through, the short will do for most and then you will need two long ones one each side for the retaining plate for the rear end hood webbing plate as it has to go through the plate and the webbing and the panel.

Stuart.

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Thats handy that you can get hold of the flat topped ones, The bolt lengths will depend on what they need to go through, the short will do for most and then you will need two long ones one each side for the retaining plate for the rear end hood webbing plate as it has to go through the plate and the webbing and the panel.

Stuart.

 

Actually all of the new ltd pegs that I have came with a job lot of spares that I bought a few years ago so I'm not actually sure what you get today from TRF/Moss when you order new ones. I just ordered a complete kit from TRF (on sale for $50) so I'll report back what I get in a few days.

 

Stan

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Hi Stan,

I have had three different thread sizes on the very rough set on the car and I think that the new ones did not come with nuts but they weren't the same as the old ones.

Always get them with appropriate nuts. Also fit the leather isolation washers save the paintwork.

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They will more than likely be 2BA but could also be 10/32UNF

Stuart.

 

My assortment includes:

 

#8 x 32 long bolt pegs which fit the rear webbing anchor points.

 

#10 x 32 long bolt pegs from an unknown location

 

#10 x 32 short bolt pegs also from an as yet unknown location

 

Update: The pegs with the short #10x32 bolt fit the doors. So there are so far three different pegs on the TR3A, the machine screw style for the dash capping, the #10 thread for the doors and the #8 thread for the rear webbing mount.

Edited by foster461
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Interesting you say No8 for webbing plate as normally they are all the same at 10/32

Stuart.

 

Saved my ass once again Stuart. Funny how a number 8 screw can cut a thread in a paint filled #10 hole. Now that I have run a tap through to clean the paint out I see that both the inboard and outboard holes in that webbing anchor plate are both #10 / 32.

 

Stan

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Don't forget the rear view mirror Stan.

 

I'll need that around mid April Neil, before I fit the windshield. Hopefully I will find where I put it by then.. We are just starting to paint the outer panels so I'm getting on with as much of the interior, engine bay and wiring as I can over the winter while the painting proceeds.

 

Stan

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Here's how the switch panel looks now covered with the same vinyl as the dashboard. I like this a lot so thanks Rod for the idea.

 

IMAG0197_zps4802d981.jpg

Hi stan, looks great!

 

I already had exactly the Same panel covered for future use, but havent seen It mounted yet. Like the looks too!

 

Now looking for a pull switch for the rear lamp, as a reverse light. A knob with an " R" ?

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Hi stan, looks great!

 

I already had exactly the Same panel covered for future use, but havent seen It mounted yet. Like the looks too!

 

Now looking for a pull switch for the rear lamp, as a reverse light. A knob with an " R" ?

 

The switch panel, switches and knobs all came from Holden (thanks Stuart). What is cool is the panel has elongated holes along the top edge that allow it to be attached to the dashboard using the same attachment screws that secure the heater brace to the dash so no holes to drill or any other mods needed to the dashboard or the switch panel.

 

I dont see an "R" knob in the Holden collection but they have a blank knob or you can search for a language in which their word for reverse starts with F L W C S H or P :)

 

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0508&agName=Push-Pull+Switches&pageno=1

 

Stan

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I dont see an "R" knob in the Holden collection but they have a blank knob or you can search for a language in which their word for reverse starts with F L W C S H or P :)

 

Stan

 

"W"everse ?

 

Need to come up with another funtion for the other hole. i have skipped my spots on the front.

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Hi Edwin,

In the UK the reverse light must either be connected to a gearbox switch or an illuminated switch. The Lucas L494 reverse light came with bracket, wire, switch and light. The Lucas switches are rare and very expensive as are an original lights. The ones I have and spares all came without switches and the PO had stolen them to sell separately.

Even those have variations depending on the age, you get those with wires exiting through the bottom of the hollow bolt and those with a threaded stud and the wires come through a grommet in the back of the light. The earliest ones are with a hollow stud as per the kit in the ST accessory book and were fitted in pairs.

Just to add another detail the lenses were different as well, either fluted vertical pattern or pyramid points like the inside of a red reflector.

 

All little details for those who think such things really matter, but I choose the later type for my 3a leaving the older ones for my Tr2. I probably have at least two NOS spares and a rebuilt switch if you fancy a correct period detail.

Rgds

Rod

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Hi rod,

 

I have one l494 in good shape with the hollow bolt.

The original setup was one at each overrider on the side, but i dont want to drill holes in them..

 

I made a bracket to bolt one on top of an overrider.

 

I dont know how the original switch looks like. Any pictures online?

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Hmm in my mind the speedo is on the left Side, in my Tr2 there's only one hole for the reset , on the left.

 

You could switch the gauges?

 

According to Bill P, the speedo used to be on the left until around TS29098 after which it was moved to the right on LHD cars so that during a rally the navigator could read the odometer..

 

Switching the speedo and tach would be an option, I'll have to give that some thought.

 

Stan

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Stan-

 

Apologies for the poor picture, it was dark in the garage this morning - just wanted to show where I mounted a similar switch panel to the brace on my car - this one is used for an auxiliary fan and hazard lights. It is easily accessible, just not very visible until you sit in the car.

 

Regards

Randy

 

FB69DE7A-DEC9-44F9-942E-A96BD723BBFA_zps

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