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Fuel starvation or something else?

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I would remake all those connections for the pump properl as they are those rubbish blue crimp ones. The pair going down to the pump and the one on the tank bolt.Illustrated in your picture in post 7 picture 4.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart

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Hi Darren- just to add to the other comments re checking the electrical connections , I had cause to remove and check exactly the same pump set up on my 6 earlier this year. The connections to the pump itself were not good ( as supplied ) but we're not visible as they were inside tightly fixed sleeving. They were a push on type and not very secure. I would recommend checking these out.

Ian

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Thanks to all for the additional feedback.

 

If earthing through the body is not great Neil, where would you recommend?

 

Hi Ian, I'm having the exact same difficulty getting to the connections on the pump, because of the sleeving. Did you have to cut the sleeving away in the end to reach the connections? Did you have to remove the pump?

 

Thanks, Darren

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Earth to the chassis, make sure you have clean metal not painted, good sturdy earth cable and good connectors, I always go for the non insulated lucar ones that you have to crimp and or solder then fit insulating sleeve.

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To eliminate all doubt I would run a separate earth wire back to the battery.

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Hi Darren,

Sorry, been away. Access will be much easier if you remove the pump. In my case, the sleeving over the connectors was quite rigid and held on with cable ties, you will struggle to see what you are doing under the wheelarch.

Regards, Ian

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Quick update:

 

Since this problem first manifested itself back in mid-December I've not had the opportunity to take the car out for a proper run, so I've used the time to tinker around with a few things that I feel confident working on. There have been many great suggestions in this thread as to what might be causing the problem, but I've stuck to looking at what I feel are the easiest things.

 

What I've done so far is:

 

Clean connectors and earth on fuel pump.

Clean connectors behind ignition.

Clean connectors on LT side.

Change rotor arm.

Change dizzy cap.

Change coil.

Change plugs (not that I thought that this was the problem).

 

As the problem was intermittent (albeit happening a lot the last time I took the car out), I'm not sure if I've cured the issue or not, but I took the car out for a 25 mile run today and it seems fine, so fingers crossed. I did notice a bit of delay in pick-up, but I think that was the case before, and I wonder if this might be exaggerated by the fact that the engine isn't getting as warm as it should in this colder weather (temp gauge didn't pass 1/4). Only other thing of note was that the engine seemed a lot quieter than it was the last time I drove the car, although my son pointed out that as I'm getting older it's probably just my hearing.

 

With the weather now getting better, I'll have the chance to do a lot more testing.

 

Darren

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Darren,

Is it on electronic ignition ? what make?

Peter

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Hi Peter,

Yes, it's got Lumenition electronic ignition. TRGB installed it just before I bought the car in July last year.

 

Darren

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Darren, I'd try a fresh post asking if Luminition is likely to be the cause of your intermittent fault ! Or revert to points. Peter.

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/42281-luminition-problem-on-stag/?hl=luminition

Edited by Peter Cobbold

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Thanks Peter. I must admit, I had wondered about the electronic ignition. Some of the symptoms are similar to those described in the link you provided. If the rain holds off over the next couple of days, I'll try to get out again for a few more test runs at longer distances. I'm hoping that what I've done so far might have cured things, but if not it'll be back to square one and I'll start a new thread.

 

Darren

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Hi Darren.

I've had nothing but trouble from electronic ignition systems. I've now gone back to good old points much less hassle and you can carry spares.

Good luck Mark

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I have an Accuspark module in my distributer, It does not make the spark any stonger, but it replaces the points & capacitor.

Once fitted needs no adjustment. To start with I carried spare points, & cap just in case the module went wrong, but then decided to simply buy a second module, to act as a spare, because it would be much easier to change - no gap setting etc.

 

Bob.

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I have an Accuspark module in my distributer, It does not make the spark any stonger, but it replaces the points & capacitor.

Once fitted needs no adjustment. To start with I carried spare points, & cap just in case the module went wrong, but then decided to simply buy a second module, to act as a spare, because it would be much easier to change - no gap setting etc.

 

Bob.

Good point Bob, they're cheap enough like you say and no gap to set, 5 minutes with a screwdriver and jobs done!

Graham

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