grumpy2 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 I use my car during the winter, if there's no salt on the road, often with the roof down! Mad I know, but my heater seems quite weak and I'm looking to see if I can get some more umph from it How good should the heater be! And are there any tips and trick I can emply to improve performance Many thanks in advance Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Allan Jezzard Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hi Gary, I know a lot of people complain about the efficiency of the heaters, but so you don't get too disheartened, mine works fine and has for 24 years - I seldom use the blower, ram air is usually sufficient. I therefore have no tips but wanted to let you know that they do work. Cheers Allan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) Gary Yep they do work ok just make sure you have the right stat fitted. 43 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600026 Edited December 13, 2014 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hi Gary. First call would be the heater valve, if the heater matrix is not getting sufficient water through it you will be fighting a loosing battle. Good luck Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Yep heater even in good nick with fan is not great compared with moderns. Don't Remington or someone do a kit with a more efficient rad and blower, it ain't cheap tho. Be interesting to know if its better. I'm a no roof man so it wrap up warm, good leather flying jacket, wooly hat gloves works for me. I'm sniffing around a windbreaker as the back draft seems to be the culprit for lots of cold air in cabin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hi Gary, my 4A heater works very well and should be the same as the 6. As suggested make sure you have the correct thermostat in the engine for the rad. Perhaps give the whole system a good 'RadFlush'. Again as suggested the water valve bung up or just not work very well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nowtelse2do Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Was out for a hour's spin yesterday, -2c but forgot my gloves, hands were freezing when I got back but the rest of me was ok. Heater is not brilliant but certainly adequate. Got called a silly old t*$t by a bloke at some lights, I said it took one to know one seeing he was wearing shorts Might invest in a new thermostat, need to save up first. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 I'm fitting a Revington/Clayton heater to my 3A. (I've also got an Irving flying jacket ~ just in case!!). Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Remember to open the bonnet vent. The standard heater isn't great in recirculate mode. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WWT338J Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Gary If the water valve and thermostat are ok you could try flushing the heater matrix. If this still doesn't help then you might want to consider these options 1. Replace the heater fan with a new one - Moss sell them 2. A Clayton high output heater http://www.claytoncc.co.uk/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1 (the heater matrix is available separately, I think). 3. An electric water pump in line with the heater water supply from the cylinder head (I used a second hand Audi pump from ebay) 4. Heated seat - I fitted electric heating elements into MX5 seats. Not difficult and they deliver the heat to where you want it most. 5. A wooly hat? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Remember to open the bonnet vent. The standard heater isn't great in recirculate mode. is that the flap in front of the windscreen? how does it open? mines closed and there is very little airflow without the blower on high Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 is that the flap in front of the windscreen? how does it open? mines closed and there is very little airflow without the blower on high That's your Problem,you need that Open to force the Air in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Lever by the side of the central console by you knee.. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 ooohhhh. dopey me I might have some insight into quantum mechanics, relativity and string theory but obviously levers are way beyond me!!! thanks for the heads up chaps, I'll give the lever a tug and see if the heat flows! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 It will. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 I dont recall exactly how that lever operates (is it push or pull to open ?) but the lever has a plastic knob that is invariably broken and despite the lever action the whole shebang takes a lot more effort to open and close than you would expect. Best to give it a gentle push/pull and see what the front edge of the vent door does before applying a lot of force to open it. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 (edited) The heater on my '6 works reasonably well. The lever mechanism for the air vent has long-gone (it wasn't present when I bought'TRoy'). I keep it open most of the time, only closing it 'manually'(i.e. pushing it shut with my hand) when I wash the car; I believe keeping a good airflow to the heater aids engine cooling, as well as the efficiency of the heater itself. Best wishes, Paul. Edited December 14, 2014 by TR Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) To open the vent flap push the lever forward, but if it hasnt been opened for some considerable time then you will probably find that the hinge on the flap is seized and so you may need one of you pushing and one of you easing the flap up. Some lube will help to free it up. New vent flaps arent expensive. Stuart. Edited December 15, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Am I right in thinking some TR6's do not have a vent lid. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Am I right in thinking some TR6's do not have a vent lid. Roger Roger Yes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 ...but they do have a grille which allows fresh air into the plenum. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 The foam seal between the heater box and cowl can shrink and cause cold air to bypass the heater on into the cockpit. You may have to make your own as the usual suspects seem not to have them ( I made mine ). It's a pig to replace but makes quite a difference. If your car has a hardtop and is especially well fitted weatherstrip-wise the exit path for ventilation may be inadequate ( if opening a window slightly improves the flow from the heater you've got that condition ). My driver's heater is pretty good but the thermostat reads 1/4 warm; must be a " summer " version...so I reckon a " winter " 'stat would produce more than enough heat. I replaced the heater blower motor and core in my show car but had to do a lot of compensating for their different sizes. The fan blades were NLA as of 2007 and quite fragile to boot; I had a spare but pity those who break them in the process of removing without same. Its heater is excellent but the airtight cockpit limits the flow somewhat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Smith Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) From my limited knowledge CP have a flap and CR do not have one? Edit I was reading page 1.Did not spot second page. Edited December 15, 2014 by Dave Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I don't have a hard top, with the roof down and the blower on speed 1 there's almost nothing coming out of the dash vents and very little coming from under the dash. With the soft top up the blower can't demist the windscreen even in position 2. It's a CP car with the flap (haven't tried it with the flap open yet) thanks Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) Hi Gary You will get way more air flow with the flap open, almost like a ram air effect, greater your speed greater the air flow. 1971 CP. Let us know if that works? As you can see in my photo the flap is open. I may be wrong but the fascia vents & footwell vents only blow cold air. Having said that I am sure I have read others have modified both to blow hot air? Cheers Mike Edited December 15, 2014 by mike3739 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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