Release bearing disassembly

[Richiep]

Hi guys,

 

I’m in the process (while the engine is out!) of changing the clutch on a late ’74 (CR series) TR6..

I’ve managed to get the crosshaft out (had to drill through top of fork to remove broken pin), and all is disassembled now, with the exception of the release bearing from the carrier.. any tips or best methods to separate them?... and then to reassemble new release bearing onto the carrier?

 

I also noticed that my (steel I think) carrier is missing a pin to stop rotation.. there is a hole one side of the groove, but not the other, so not sure if it ever had one.. Not having seen one with the pin fitted I assume they have holes each side of the groove and are sprung into place?

 

Thanks in advance guys..

 

Richard

 

 

[TR NIALL]

The Bearing is a Press Fit but should not take to much effort to get off.

Place Carrier in Vice with Bearing facing up a 50,51,52mm Socket inside Bearing and TapOut the Carrier.

Edited November 18, 2014 by TR NIALL

[Richiep]

Hi Niall,

 

Thanks for that... Somehow I should have thought of that! Doh!

 

Any thoughts on the missing(?) anti-rotation pin... with a hole only one side of the groove?

 

Thanks again,

 

Richard

[Kevo_6]

Hi Richard

 

Once the release bearing is removed the hole will go all the way through, when i removed mine the pin (solid) just dropped out, the new one i bought was a roll type pin which was a bit to much oversized and a right bu**er to drift in and started to bend so i put the old one back in.

No idea why yours is not fitted but maybe it was lost when assembling.

[TR NIALL]

Anti Rotation Pin,only one Hole on the inner side of the Flange Groove.

Edited November 18, 2014 by TR NIALL

[Kevo_6]

Anti Rotation Pin,only one Hole on the inner side of the Flange Groove.

That's what I meant but Niall, you managed it in fewer words. Now I read what I wrote it does sound a bit misleading. :unsure:

[TR NIALL]

Between the both of us I think Richard will understand.

[peter.goreham]

Hi,

 

Had these same issues recently with a gearbox rebuild for my TR5.

As others have said there is only one pin, and some say that it causes as many problems as it solves so a PO may have discarded it

Pete Cox recommends the use of the smaller diameter fork pins and the blocks as used in the Triumph 2000. These don't use an anti-rotation pin.

This modification does require the channel that the pins/blocks operate in to be machined out by a few thou but this has the benefit of removing the wear spots in the front face of the carrier channel that the anti-rotation pin indirectly causes.

All seems to work fine.

 

Whist it's all apart I would strongly recommend considering the cross drilling of the operating fork/shaft and fitting an additional roll pin or bolt.

Personally, I used a long shanked 1/4" UNF high tensile bolt through a ( I think 6.2mm hole) which gave a nice interference fit with an all metal lock nut, oh, and a drop of Loctite for good measure

Probably one of the most discussed topics on the forum so plenty to help you make up your mind.

 

Cheers

Peter

[RogerH]

Hi Richard,

just to add to this a little -

The TR6 had a steel carrier as standard and had the anti-rotation pin in.

This stopped the steel carrier trying to spin on the steel nose assembly of the gearbox - steel on steel , something will give.

 

On the earlier cars they used a PhozyBroze carrier with no pin. This allowed the carrier to rotate which it was happy to do.

As it could rotate the chances of the fork pins digging in was reduced.

 

When people suffer from any problems in the clutch system they often change to a PhozyBronze carrier in the hope it will cure things - it often does.

 

 

Roger

[Richiep]

Thanks All for the replies..

 

Maybe I will try the phozybronze carrier then.. and forget the pin..

 

Peter,

I was thinking of cross drilling the shaft with a bolt.. so it was helpful to have this detail..

 

" long shanked 1/4" UNF high tensile bolt through a ( I think 6.2mm hole) which gave a nice interference fit with an all metal lock nut, oh, and a drop of Loctite for good measure"

 

I don't have any special tools though, only a hand held drill...! so I'm concerned I might not get an accurate hole that's tight enough for the bolt.. any suggestions?

 

Thanks again guys..

 

Richard

[peejay4A]

Richard,

To be on the safe side you should find someone with a pillar drill to make the hole. While you're in there fit a pair of bearings at each end of the cross shaft. They're cheap and easy to fit two in the space of each.

[peter.goreham]

Hi Richard,

 

Yes, they're right, don't attempt drilling the assembly with a hand held drill.

The fork / shaft need to be assembled with a new taper bolt and then cross drilled as a unit.

I would have this done at a local machine shop. Shouldn't cost too much and is far better than wrecking the shaft and fork.

Yes, definitely go with fitting double shaft bushes or alternatively Revingtons do a double width bush.

Best of luck.

 

Peter

[poolboy]

There is a shallow 'blind hole' on this TOB.