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I'm pleased and relieved to say that I now have a much improved wiper sweep.

I positioned the pin 16mm from centre which has given me a 130 degree sweep. There must be some wear in the wheel boxes for this measurement to work out the way it has. I was expecting 150 degree for the Midget.

I probably could have got a slightly larger sweep as there was still some linear tolerance in the gear housing. Maybe I will look out for an old gear to experiment with. 

Many thanks for your help and advice.

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Hi Milt,

there are two types of wheel box for our TR's

37H6316   TR4/4A/5/250   and  37H7738  TR6

The 37H6316 is bigger in diameter.

On the TR6 14W motor it is easy to get different sized motor gear wheels so there is no real reason to change the wheel boxes. Simply do the calculations  and get a gear to fit your sweep.

I used 90 degrees on my 4A and have a sweep close tot he original 120'

A little more difficult for the DR3 motor as the large gear wheel is not so readily available But Alan T has shown you can re-engineer the gear wheel to suit your set-up.

Again you do not need to change the wheel boxes.

The beauty of he 14W with a smaller gear wheel and larger wheelboxes is that you increase you torque without much effort.

 

Roger

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  • 1 month later...
On 10/28/2014 at 10:22 PM, RAHTR4 said:

The Lucas wiper motor DR3A 75607B was originally standard fitment on a 1967 Triumph GT6.

It appears to be a single speed operation.

Yeah I know I'm awakening an old post but the GT6 motor was two-speed; they used the same shape of body as the single speed Herald rather than the later round-bodied motor, but whereas the Herald is single, the GT6 is two-speed.

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1 hour ago, UlsterTR7 said:

Yeah I know I'm awakening an old post but the GT6 motor was two-speed; they used the same shape of body as the single speed Herald rather than the later round-bodied motor, but whereas the Herald is single, the GT6 is two-speed.

The GT6 square bodied 2 speed  wiper motor is the same as TR4A and TR5/250.    It should match with 37H6316 wheel boxes.

As an aside to Roger's info the 37H6306 wheel box also is used in TR3/3A with the DR type wiper motor (self parking type)  NOT the CRT that was used on TR2 - which is not self parking.  The wheel box for CRT motors is curious and not interchangeable.

Cheers

Peter W

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Peter. I'm currently having problems with mine blowing fuses, which only started when I adjusted the self-park by rotating the top cover so that the wipers moved to a better position on the screen, but I've asked a few owners for help and many seem to believe that the square body version is single-speed only, and the one I need is round-bodied. Not so! I think that if it's got spade terminals it's single, if it's got cables it's two-speed. Incidentally, can I pick anyone's brains here - the GT6 MK1 motor has three cables (not counting earth) - green / red, green / brown, and green. Which one controls the park?

Edited by UlsterTR7
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It is the round cap bit above the gear with a wire attached that sets the parking position.

PM  ALANT on this forum if you get stuck

Cheers

Peter W

Info Here

 

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  • 9 months later...

Hi Bryan,

Looking at a picture of a DL2 it looks similar to the DR3. In that it has a field winding, an armature winding and a park wire attached to a domed cap. Based on that, fitting a resistor in line with the field winding will speed the motor up. If you can switch the resistor in and out, then you achieve a two speed motor. I have no details about the windings so I cannot tell you what size resistor, but AlanT will probably know the best way to do this and what value resistor to use.

Good luck

TT

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  • 9 months later...

Hi... I hope you don't mind me opening up an old topic however I was hoping for some expert advice...

I've taken my DR3A out of my '64 spitfire with a view to overhaul after the wipers just stopped working. I had a reconditioned unit minus the gear wheel and shaft so decided just to swap it over. In the process, I managed to damage the top of the shaft (the spindle bit attached to the wheel) so now need a new gear wheel (I think).

Apart from buying an old unit and being more careful, where can I get one from? Its a 150 degree just for the record.

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1 hour ago, Bobbydazzler said:

Hi... I hope you don't mind me opening up an old topic however I was hoping for some expert advice...

I've taken my DR3A out of my '64 spitfire with a view to overhaul after the wipers just stopped working. I had a reconditioned unit minus the gear wheel and shaft so decided just to swap it over. In the process, I managed to damage the top of the shaft (the spindle bit attached to the wheel) so now need a new gear wheel (I think).

Apart from buying an old unit and being more careful, where can I get one from? Its a 150 degree just for the record.

PM  ALANT on this forum if you get stuck   He may be able to help with the gear and shaft

Cheers

Peter W

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2 hours ago, Bobbydazzler said:

Hi... I hope you don't mind me opening up an old topic however I was hoping for some expert advice...

I've taken my DR3A out of my '64 spitfire with a view to overhaul after the wipers just stopped working. I had a reconditioned unit minus the gear wheel and shaft so decided just to swap it over. In the process, I managed to damage the top of the shaft (the spindle bit attached to the wheel) so now need a new gear wheel (I think).

Apart from buying an old unit and being more careful, where can I get one from? Its a 150 degree just for the record.

Hi BD,

there are no new gear wheels available. Keep an eye on Ebay.    As Pete states @AlanT on here is the man to contact.

It is possible to reposition the spigot on any of the gearwheels to give an 150' effect (move the spigot in or out on the radius to get the correct sweep.)

What have you actually done to the shaft to make it useless?  Photo please

Have you considered fitting a Lucas 14W motor - these actually work.

 

Roger

 

 

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Hi BD,

Ouch!!!  that is broken.

Assuming you can't get a replacement then consider repairing what you have.

Have you got access to a lathe etc??

The post can be turned up. Leave a tail on the end to go through the gear

Cut the existing post off and make the surface flush. Drill a hole to accept the new post tail.

The new post needs to be attached firmly - not sure what it underneath  - maybe a touch of weld.

Easy peasy :blink:

 

Roger

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Hi Roger... Sounds like a job for someone who can hold one of these without dropping the damn thing :huh:

I think I may see if I can find a cheap non-worker and pinch the mechanism first, maybe.

Could I use a different one such as a 120 or 130, or does it need to be 150?

Also I've not considered an alternative such as a 14w motor. Are these things fairly universal?

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27 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi BD,

Ouch!!!  that is broken.

Assuming you can't get a replacement then consider repairing what you have.

Have you got access to a lathe etc??

The post can be turned up. Leave a tail on the end to go through the gear

Cut the existing post off and make the surface flush. Drill a hole to accept the new post tail.

The new post needs to be attached firmly - not sure what it underneath  - maybe a touch of weld.

Easy peasy :blink:

 

Roger

Roger you beat me to it !

Whatever you do do, don't throw away the damaged one. As Roger says it can be repaired, & someone may need it one day.

Bob

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16 minutes ago, Bobbydazzler said:

Hi Roger... Sounds like a job for someone who can hold one of these without dropping the damn thing :huh:

I think I may see if I can find a cheap non-worker and pinch the mechanism first, maybe.

Could I use a different one such as a 120 or 130, or does it need to be 150?

Also I've not considered an alternative such as a 14w motor. Are these things fairly universal?

Hi BD,

the gear wheel is specific to the car - if it has a 150' then that is what it needs. A small degree will give a smaller sweep

Buying a scrap motor should solve the situation - but make sure that the gear IS inside.

The 14W motor is used everywhere and is a good price - NEW.

https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/wiper-systems-and-part/

The 14W is two speed

But you do need the correct switch and possibly a small interface loom - but they are very good once up and running.

Where abouts are you with your gear wheel..  I'm in Hayes near Heathrow

 

Roger

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That slot only holds the parking switch contact.  I’d probably glue the contact back in place with its clip using araldite or JB weld.  Leave to set them reassemble.  No fiddling about with 14 W motors and the different mounts, switches wiring or sweeps.  
KISS principle here

Peter W

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11 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

That slot only holds the parking switch contact.  I’d probably glue the contact back in place with its clip using araldite or JB weld.  Leave to set them reassemble.  No fiddling about with 14 W motors and the different mounts, switches wiring or sweeps.  
KISS principle here

Peter W

I did wonder whether there was a way of securing that copper contact. I wasn't sure whether the slot had a purpose and it had to fit into the underside of the round cap...

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12 hours ago, Bobbydazzler said:

I did wonder whether there was a way of securing that copper contact. I wasn't sure whether the slot had a purpose and it had to fit into the underside of the round cap...

You still have one half moon but to locate the copper contact so some sort of securing system needs to be created to hold the contact to the post

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

You still have one half moon but to locate the copper contact so some sort of securing system needs to be created to hold the contact to the post

Just going from what you suggested before, wondering whether a push nut filled with araldite type glue would work?

I might give it a go as nothing to lose really if it didn't work!

 

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50 minutes ago, Bobbydazzler said:

Just going from what you suggested before, wondering whether a push nut filled with araldite type glue would work?

I might give it a go as nothing to lose really if it didn't work!

 

Hi BD,

PM sent - look for the RED envelope in top right hand corner of the screen

 

Roger

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