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I have the opportunity whilst the tub is being sprayed to upgrade to disc brakes

 

Is this the right thing to do?

 

I am feeling that it may be worthwhile but need convincing

 

I would be greatfull for your opinions

 

Alan Y

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Definitely worth doing - I did, the difference is quite noticeable especialy when having to brake hard from speed - they don't fade nearly as much.

Are you planning to change the master cylinders as well ? I did, but I don't know if you can use the old dual type with discs ?

 

Have you got a Girling back axle ? - if not also worth doing.

 

Bob.

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Depends upon what you want to do with it, if you are using for cruising, fast road work or even occasional track day use the standard brake setup is fine.

 

If you want to take in more competitive driving (and spend money) then there are plenty of ways to upgrade the discs and even calipers, check out the search function, this subject seems to be on a loop. Just beware of using pads designed for harder work on the road, some of the most terrifying braking experiences you'll ever have are within 400yards of home when a drum braked Morris minor in front decides to jump on the brakes and you realise that your cold brakes aren't up to the job.

 

Mick Richards

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If the discs are in bad condition, then it would be worth getting them skimmed in order to achieve an even, shiny finish - it would increase braking efficiency considerably.

Mick is spot-on when it comes to choice of pads - some years ago I owned a TR7V8 which, even with servo assistance, didn't want to stop from even 70 mph, whereas my TR4 (no assistance) always does. A change to Austin Princess pads solved the V8's problem!

Ian Cornish

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IMHO it all depends how original you are keeping the car. If as much as possible then stick to properly adjusted drum brakes. Looks better works well even when trying but beware of getting the correct shoes.

Me, I'd keep to what you have and spend the cash on upgrading to the best drum brake parts.

 

kind regards.

Rod

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Discs are hardly expensive these days, it costs more to get them skimmed in a machine shop than to buy new ones . . . . in any case, with a tolerable wear factor of 1mm/40 thou per face, you don't actually have a great deal to play with.

 

Any Wedge is limited by the excessively modest calipers, although with the right pads they still worked well enough in prodsports racing in the 70s and 80s . . . . . Austin Princess pads won't do a great deal without the matching 4-pot calipers to fit them in and appropriate discs for them to grip on. The improvement in braking that results has more to do with the caliper, the disc, and the larger size of pad - the actual friction lining spec was the same as OE for TR7 and Austin Princess alike.

 

Like Pete, I assume that what Alan is really asking is whether to dump the original Lockheed drums all round in favour of a Girling disc front and drum rear axle set up ?

 

There aren't that many 2s or 3s running to original spec now, generations of owners having modernised from Lockheed to Girling. If you can drive within the limitations of the drums, not that much of a limitation after all, then it's good to see at least a few TRs remaining original. And saves enough cash for a weekend away . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Alan,

 

Hope that helps your considered process, thankfully Pete's and Alecs reading is more accurate than mine and so the correct info came out eventually.

 

Mick Richards

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Another thing to consider if you've restored the chassis. The front hose bracketry is different on disc braked cars, so welding may be needed.

 

You might consider fitting TR4 front discs like TCF series TR3Bs used, as parts can be more readily available. TR4 calipers (needing matching mount brackets) are lighter and use slightly smaller diameter rotors, which saves unsprung weight. Pads are more commonly available in a wider choice of materials. Also TR4 pads are less prone to squealing than TR3A pads which can be embarrassingly loud.

 

Viv

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As someone that had only ever driven TR3As and TR4As with disc brakes, I was very wary of driving TS2 last year because of its drum brakes. However, I was pleasantly surprised and although not as good as discs they were perfectly acceptable for normal, enthusiastic driving. I wouldn't want to do too many mountain passes with them but my advice would be stick with the drums and then decide whether you need to upgrade after a reasonable period of driving. Depending on your driving style and use of the car, you may find that other than needing to periodically adjust them, drums will be sufficient for your needs.

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Alan: like you I have an early 3 (ca. 300 earlier), and for almost thirty years I managed with the drum brakes. The only problem I ever had was doing mountain passes in the Lake District, when the scary issue of brake fade manifested itself. And that is horribly disconcerting... I was living in that part of the world for a number of those thirty years, and somehow managed to miss all those drystone walls.

However, I changed only because of repeated problems with half-shaft breakage, which in the end hacked me off so much that I decided to move to a Girling rear axle.

Seeing that I was going that far, it seemed sensible to move to discs as well - though I found (during the transition process) that it is perfectly possible to retain all-round drums with a Girling axle.

Anyway, the die had been cast and I opted for TR6 discs. It is an easy swap. Fantastic results; no further braking worries.

I accept what others have noted re. originality. In my case it's no longer something to give me angst - over the years I've made so many piecemeal mods/changes to my 3 that it is only ever going to be a (tatty) bitsa. But it's a great deal of fun in this state...

Hth,

Tim.

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My first TR2 had drum brakes and scared me on many occasions, so I determined that my next TR must have discs and overdrive. As it happens, I found a TR2 which had been converted to discs, and never again did I worry about adequacy of braking on public roads.

As mentioned, the conversion is not difficult, nor is it expensive.

Ian Cornish

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Alan: like you I have an early 3 (ca. 300 earlier), and for almost thirty years I managed with the drum brakes. The only problem I ever had was doing mountain passes in the Lake District, when the scary issue of brake fade manifested itself. And that is horribly disconcerting... I was living in that part of the world for a number of those thirty years, and somehow managed to miss all those drystone walls.

However, I changed only because of repeated problems with half-shaft breakage, which in the end hacked me off so much that I decided to move to a Girling rear axle.

Seeing that I was going that far, it seemed sensible to move to discs as well - though I found (during the transition process) that it is perfectly possible to retain all-round drums with a Girling axle.

Anyway, the die had been cast and I opted for TR6 discs. It is an easy swap. Fantastic results; no further braking worries.

I accept what others have noted re. originality. In my case it's no longer something to give me angst - over the years I've made so many piecemeal mods/changes to my 3 that it is only ever going to be a (tatty) bitsa. But it's a great deal of fun in this state...

Hth,

Tim.

Tim

 

I dont belive tatty for one minute

 

Your post has been very instrumentel in making up my mind to change to TR6 discs

 

Thank you

 

I realy look foreward to 2015 fun driving for the first time for ages

 

Best regards

 

Alan

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My first TR2 had drum brakes and scared me on many occasions, so I determined that my next TR must have discs and overdrive. As it happens, I found a TR2 which had been converted to discs, and never again did I worry about adequacy of braking on public roads.

As mentioned, the conversion is not difficult, nor is it expensive.

Ian Cornish

Ian

 

Thank you

 

Your valued advice is much apreciated and has been instrumental in my decision to change to disc's

 

Best wishes

 

Alan

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