foster461 Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 I'm in the early stages of installing the new wiring loom before I put the heater in. In the RHS footwell there are numerous loom tabs offering a couple of options for routing the loom that will run up to the rear end. One goes high as indicated by the red path (there is a tab in that upper corner circled), the other is where I have it now which crosses the footwell approx where the carpet would terminate. I wonder which of these is the correct routing ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) The "logic" commands using the current setup and follow the flange of the footwell Edited October 26, 2014 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 I used the route that you are currently using Stan. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 I used the route that you are currently using Stan. Rgds Ian ^^^this^^^ It's worth checking the length of the carpets and how they are attached to the footwell. Menno Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yes as I have done. And if it is a Lockheed car with worn pedal bushes, the clutch pedal, when on full through, pinches the loom. I wrapped mine in a bit of heater hose to stop it wearing through and shorting out. (In 1972 on my first TR I hasten to add) Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 You have it running the right way now Stan, carpet usually finishes pretty much just above where the loom is. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Mine is a mirror of the lhd side tabs up with dip switch wiring . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Thanks guys. Its funny that no matter how many pictures you take during disassembly the one picture you need isnt one of them. I wonder if that loom tab in the upper right corner of the passenger footwell is another artifact of a RHD car then as it doesnt appear to get used. There are other remnants of the RHD config in the LHD cars visible in my picture that just get filled with 1/4 inch bolts. As I was looking at other TR3A loom pictures yesterday I noticed the different approaches for bringing the loom through the firewall on the RHS. My car has two holes in the firewall, one that just had a rubber plug in it and the other larger hole above it was where the original loom came through. So essentially the loom forks after exiting the firewall. Some people opt to use the lower hole in addition and leave the fork in the loom on the footwell side. I wonder if this is another LHD/RHD difference ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys. Its funny that no matter how many pictures you take during disassembly the one picture you need isnt one of them. I wonder if that loom tab in the upper right corner of the passenger footwell is another artifact of a RHD car then as it doesnt appear to get used. There are other remnants of the RHD config in the LHD cars visible in my picture that just get filled with 1/4 inch bolts. As I was looking at other TR3A loom pictures yesterday I noticed the different approaches for bringing the loom through the firewall on the RHS. My car has two holes in the firewall, one that just had a rubber plug in it and the other larger hole above it was where the original loom came through. So essentially the loom forks after exiting the firewall. Some people opt to use the lower hole in addition and leave the fork in the loom on the footwell side. I wonder if this is another LHD/RHD difference ? Stan Well, perhaps this is what you're looking for! There's an interesting detail on the pic as well: there's a wide clip pointing downward. It holds the carpet in place. I can not see it on the pic you originally posted. And perhaps it's an idea to PM Edwin Tiben - he already installed a part of the loom on his 2. Menno Edited October 26, 2014 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 If I recall Menno you have a custom loom in your car but that is essentially how my loom exits the firewall through that larger upper hole. The carpet clips are missing from my picture, I havent installed them yet. I did trial fit the carpet just to see what it looks like and it seems to fit ok and will clip to the footwell pretty much where the loom crosses. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yes I do have a custom loom, but it gives you an idea about the possibilities. When you route the loom across the footwell like you've done on the pic, I'm sure that the carpet will cover the loom. Having said that, when there's a chance of fraying the loom, I would suggest you do the same as Peter W: covering the loom in a piece of tubing. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Hi, perhaps this helps, this is a picture of Colin Briscoe's early TR2 RHD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Edwin, that certainly explains four of the unused captive nuts I have in my passenger side footwell. Three more to go. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brydon Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Edwin, that certainly explains four of the unused captive nuts I have in my passenger side footwell. Three more to go. Stan Where are the other three captives Stan? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Stan, here's the right-side footwell of an unrestored long-door TR2. You can see the harness taking the low road across the firewall. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Where are the other three captives Stan? There are three more over on the left hand side of the passenger footwell. I think two of them on the side are for the RHD dip switch, not sure what the other one on the front is from. It seems when the factory made the mods to remove the ability to easily switch between building LHD or RHD tubs they did not do it for all panels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Hi stan, nothing odd, three captives needed for the RHD dip switch see pic above. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Hi stan, nothing odd, three captives needed for the RHD dip switch see pic above. You are right Rod, after I posted my picture I scrolled up and noticed the RHD dip switch bracket has three fasteners. So we have 4 bolts for the RHD accelerator pedal that exit under the RH fender and 3 on the firewall for the dipswitch. In retrospect I should have inserted those bolts before painting. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Stan - Here's a photo of my 1958 TR3A showing the loom near the control box On the later post 60000 green TR3A I restored, you can see the loom and where it exits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thanks Don, a couple of things to note from your last picture, the green car. 1. The flasher unit must be mounted vertical to leave room for the brake line 2. The extra hole under the commission plate came from the factory, not some DPO My arrangement looks very similar other than the poorly oriented flasher unit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Am I correct that the rear lamps (sidelights, brake lights,indicators, number plate lamp) all depend on the lamp base to be the ground connection and there was no separate ground wire to any of these lamps ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 No they all should have a ground wire from them. I tend to bring them all together to a single earth point bolted through the support bracket under the centre of the back panel in the boot.Left side tail and indicator together into one ring terminal and right side the same.That way it keeps them all tidy. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 No they all should have a ground wire from them. I tend to bring them all together to a single earth point bolted through the support bracket under the centre of the back panel in the boot.Left side tail and indicator together into one ring terminal and right side the same.That way it keeps them all tidy. Stuart. Very good, I will make that the plan. I have also seen suggestions to add an extra body ground cable to the frame, is there a favorite location to do that ?. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 You could use a longer bolt on one of the R/hand drive captives that you have been mentioning earlier in this thread so it comes right through the firewall and then use that as an anchor point to run an earth cable from to a bellhousing bolt. That along with the standard engine to frame earth at the left hand front should cover it.. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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