EdwinTiben Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 (edited) Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horns like the OVC276 (never got to it to fit them...) The hole in the back is used for the wires to get a clean look on the front Mind you, these are milimeters ! After the welding i had them powder coated. It still looks good after 4 years in front of the car. Tip: buy covers for the lamps, I was too late, the first chips are there.. Have fun creating. Any questions, just let me know. Disclaimer: Never intended to create exact copies of the real ones, so there will be differences from the real deal. Edited October 5, 2014 by EdwinTiben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 These are great, Edwin!! Now I want a TR2 just so that I can have some like this :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 (edited) V nice Edwin, I wish I had paid attention in engineering lessons at school. I did win the engineering drawing prize, but that was only because he thought I was a dead cert fail and I scraped a C. (However, forging, shaping, cutting, filing metal has never been my forte) l wanted to lower the height of my lamps as, for me, they visually sit too high when they are mounted on a lamp bar held between the standard bolt position behind the overriders. Being a tight fisted Yorkshireman and with no talent in fabrication (other than of the truth) I came up with an alternative For the princely sum of £1.60 each, I found that Wickes sold metal plates pre-drilled and of just the right size. There a slot hole for the top and two holes lower down that allow you to drop the height of the lamp bar by circa 2 or 3" respectively. http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b640/mcmuttley/IMG_5670_zps23aeb52c.jpg As the pick shows, they are a good fit. I bolted the lamp bar to the lower hole first as you cannot get to both sides once its in the overrider. The plate is then bolted to the existing overrider thread. The effect from the front is to lower the lamp bar to about an inch above the bumper. http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b640/mcmuttley/IMG_5665_zpse11ed884.jpg ....and the lamp sits lower http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b640/mcmuttley/IMG_0220_zps23066707.jpg This is with the bar at the lowest position, there is an option to fit it an inch higher. OK, OK, I know its not original works stuff, but it works for me and it was bleeding cheap. I am sure if 50's 60's man had Wickes he would have done the same. It was a 5 min fix, no drilling or forging or other fabrication and they are reversible. OK, OK, I know they will block more air flow but with cowls and electric fans I seem to have no issue OK, OK, I know, plod says they should be a similar height to the headlamps (should, would, could, fog or driving or whatever, he doesn't know what applies to a 50's car) Ok, OK, I know that closer to the ground they are more likely to find a stone (I'll get covers (or those stone guards that mount below and sit in front. OK, OK, I know, those headlamp mesh guards look **** - they will be coming off Edited October 8, 2014 by McMuttley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Hi Austin, In a word BULLSHIT! You have a really really nice car and the operative word is YOU. Your car, your preferences, what ever works for you. What others think of it is irrelevant , if they like it that's nice if not tough ****. You aren't going for a Concours prize but rather a car you can use and be proud of, which YOU CAN MATE! Shame about it being RED hee hee! Common as muck as we say opt Norf The only thing you need to do is enjoy it and perhaps change that exhaust as it will take away the enjoyment for you and perhaps smoke you like a kipper if it is leaking fumes into the car. Best regards Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 I could do a 'Rimoss', buy the plates at £1.60, then sell them on at £8.50 (and not point out that actually the top slot needs filing a fraction for the bolt to fit !) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 That's a clever mod, Austin. I like it, and may have to copy it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Only thing you should also do is fit the stay bars that go behind the overriders and through the grill so the lamps are a bit steadier in operation. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 (edited) See Below Edited October 11, 2014 by Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Attached is a photo of my 1958 TR3A taken in 1963, right after the Rally de l'Echo and you can see that I have a 7" Cibie mounted on a stainless steel support I fabricated that is secured to the upper bumperette bolt. It was mounted close to center. It survived the attack I had with a fencepost that kept me from dropping 20 feet into the raging white water rapids of the Riviere Rouge at 3:00 in the morning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted November 3, 2020 Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 I am considering to detach my front bumper of my TR2. Therefore I am looking for sharp looking holder for the spot lights and the licence plate. Some time ago, I saw a great self made solution (I think it was a red car). Maybe it was someone of you? If not, you may have got another good solution? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 3, 2020 Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 If fitting mesh guards to head &/or spot lamps, buy stainless steel. More expensive and not as shiny on day one, but will still look the same after several years, whereas chrome plated guards will look really tatty in quite a short time. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 3, 2020 Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 This is the ex works 2 , OVC276 with correct lights and horns. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
setron Posted November 6, 2020 Report Share Posted November 6, 2020 Hi applegreen , this is what I've done to get the look I was after, hopefully you can see from the photo. I used a top leaf spring from a Morris, being narrow it fits into the horn bracket. I then welded two "L" brackets on an angle to hold the spotlights. The whole setup bolts to the bumper brackets and of course the registration plate gave me the distance between lights. Hopefully this helps. cheers Shane. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 6, 2020 Report Share Posted November 6, 2020 Shane - doesn't tilting the spotlamps mean that one side of each beam is tilted upwards and the other downwards? Wouldn't this create rather an odd effect on the road and its surroundings? Can I take it that this is the car for which you have purchased from the SDF (and, after 14 days in transit to NZ, finally received) the last set of chrome rear lamp bezels? Ian Cornish P.S. Just wondering how the Morris drives without its rear spring leaf! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted November 6, 2020 Report Share Posted November 6, 2020 (edited) I have done a similar thing with my spotlights. But, you can reposition the the lens in the body as there are two possibilities and that makes them straight even when the body is mounted at an angle. [url=https://flic.kr/p/2bRcCRv][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/4891/45189038735_be7febf1d7_c.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2bRcCRv]P1040548[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/150824186@N05/]john curtis[/url], sur Flickr Edited November 6, 2020 by TwinCamJohn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted November 6, 2020 Report Share Posted November 6, 2020 Not sure why the photo hasn't come out as I haven't done anything different to normal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
setron Posted November 6, 2020 Report Share Posted November 6, 2020 8 hours ago, ianc said: Shane - doesn't tilting the spotlamps mean that one side of each beam is tilted upwards and the other downwards? Wouldn't this create rather an odd effect on the road and its surroundings? Can I take it that this is the car for which you have purchased from the SDF (and, after 14 days in transit to NZ, finally received) the last set of chrome rear lamp bezels? Ian Cornish P.S. Just wondering how the Morris drives without its rear spring leaf! Ian, this short door Tr2 is my daily driver which over the years I change the look of it, latest being the metal cockpit cover and spot lights. The bezels that I purchased are for Ts612 and is in the process of getting restored, thanks to SDF I can get the car back to original. Shane. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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