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"Works style" Spot lamp brackets


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Hi,

 

I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets.

Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car.

 

Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp.

 

_DSC0054.jpg

 

I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder.

I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud.

 

IMG_4550.JPG

 

The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horns like the OVC276 (never got to it to fit them...)

 

IMG_4551.JPG

 

IMG_4552.JPG

 

The hole in the back is used for the wires to get a clean look on the front

 

 

IMG_4555.JPG

 

IMG_4557.JPG

 

IMG_4558.JPG

 

IMG_4559.JPG

 

IMG_4560.JPG

 

 

IMG_4562.JPG

 

Mind you, these are milimeters !

 

IMG_4563.JPG

 

After the welding i had them powder coated. It still looks good after 4 years in front of the car.

 

Tip: buy covers for the lamps, I was too late, the first chips are there..

 

 

Have fun creating.

 

Any questions, just let me know.

 

 

 

Disclaimer: Never intended to create exact copies of the real ones, so there will be differences from the real deal.

Edited by EdwinTiben
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V nice Edwin, I wish I had paid attention in engineering lessons at school. I did win the engineering drawing prize, but that was only because he thought I was a dead cert fail and I scraped a C. (However, forging, shaping, cutting, filing metal has never been my forte)

 

l wanted to lower the height of my lamps as, for me, they visually sit too high when they are mounted on a lamp bar held between the standard bolt position behind the overriders.

 

Being a tight fisted Yorkshireman and with no talent in fabrication (other than of the truth) I came up with an alternative

 

For the princely sum of £1.60 each, I found that Wickes sold metal plates pre-drilled and of just the right size.

 

There a slot hole for the top and two holes lower down that allow you to drop the height of the lamp bar by circa 2 or 3" respectively.

 

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b640/mcmuttley/IMG_5670_zps23aeb52c.jpg

 

IMG_5670_zps23aeb52c.jpg

 

As the pick shows, they are a good fit. I bolted the lamp bar to the lower hole first as you cannot get to both sides once its in the overrider. The plate is then bolted to the existing overrider thread.

 

The effect from the front is to lower the lamp bar to about an inch above the bumper.

 

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b640/mcmuttley/IMG_5665_zpse11ed884.jpg

 

IMG_5665_zpse11ed884.jpg

 

....and the lamp sits lower

 

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b640/mcmuttley/IMG_0220_zps23066707.jpg

IMG_0220_zps23066707.jpg

 

This is with the bar at the lowest position, there is an option to fit it an inch higher.

 

OK, OK, I know its not original works stuff, but it works for me and it was bleeding cheap. I am sure if 50's 60's man had Wickes he would have done the same. It was a 5 min fix, no drilling or forging or other fabrication and they are reversible.

 

OK, OK, I know they will block more air flow but with cowls and electric fans I seem to have no issue

 

OK, OK, I know, plod says they should be a similar height to the headlamps (should, would, could, fog or driving or whatever, he doesn't know what applies to a 50's car)

 

Ok, OK, I know that closer to the ground they are more likely to find a stone (I'll get covers (or those stone guards that mount below and sit in front.

 

OK, OK, I know, those headlamp mesh guards look **** - they will be coming off

Edited by McMuttley
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Hi Austin,

In a word BULLSHIT! You have a really really nice car and the operative word is YOU. Your car, your preferences, what ever works for you. What others think of it is irrelevant , if they like it that's nice if not tough ****. You aren't going for a Concours prize but rather a car you can use and be proud of, which YOU CAN MATE!

Shame about it being RED hee hee! Common as muck as we say opt Norf

 

The only thing you need to do is enjoy it and perhaps change that exhaust as it will take away the enjoyment for you and perhaps smoke you like a kipper if it is leaking fumes into the car.

 

Best regards

Rod

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I could do a 'Rimoss', buy the plates at £1.60, then sell them on at £8.50 (and not point out that actually the top slot needs filing a fraction for the bolt to fit !)

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Only thing you should also do is fit the stay bars that go behind the overriders and through the grill so the lamps are a bit steadier in operation.

Stuart.

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Attached is a photo of my 1958 TR3A taken in 1963, right after the Rally de l'Echo and you can see that I have a 7" Cibie mounted on a stainless steel support I fabricated that is secured to the upper bumperette bolt. It was mounted close to center. It survived the attack I had with a fencepost that kept me from dropping 20 feet into the raging white water rapids of the Riviere Rouge at 3:00 in the morning.

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  • 6 years later...

If fitting mesh guards to head &/or spot lamps, buy stainless steel.  More expensive and not as shiny on day one, but will still look the same after several years, whereas chrome plated guards will look really tatty in quite a short time.

Ian Cornish

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Hi applegreen , this is what I've done to get the look I was after, hopefully you can see from the photo. I used a top leaf spring from a Morris, being narrow it fits into the horn bracket. I then welded two "L" brackets on an angle to hold the spotlights. The whole setup bolts to the bumper brackets and of course the registration plate gave me the distance between lights.                         Hopefully this helps.

cheers Shane.

IMG_0503.JPG

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Shane - doesn't tilting the spotlamps mean that one side of each beam is tilted upwards and the other downwards?  Wouldn't this create rather an odd effect on the road and its surroundings?

Can I take it that this is the car for which you have purchased from the SDF (and, after 14 days in transit to NZ,  finally received) the last set of chrome rear lamp bezels?

Ian Cornish

P.S. Just wondering how the Morris drives without its rear spring leaf! 

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I have done a similar thing with my spotlights. But, you can reposition the the lens in the body as there are two possibilities and that makes them straight even when the body is mounted at an angle.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2bRcCRv][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/4891/45189038735_be7febf1d7_c.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2bRcCRv]P1040548[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/150824186@N05/]john curtis[/url], sur Flickr

Edited by TwinCamJohn
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8 hours ago, ianc said:

Shane - doesn't tilting the spotlamps mean that one side of each beam is tilted upwards and the other downwards?  Wouldn't this create rather an odd effect on the road and its surroundings?

Can I take it that this is the car for which you have purchased from the SDF (and, after 14 days in transit to NZ,  finally received) the last set of chrome rear lamp bezels?

Ian Cornish

P.S. Just wondering how the Morris drives without its rear spring leaf! 

Ian, this short door Tr2 is my daily driver which over the years I change the look of it, latest being the metal cockpit cover and spot lights. The bezels that  I purchased are for Ts612 and is in the process of getting restored, thanks to SDF I can get the car back to original.

Shane.

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