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Preparing for Snowmageddon


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I think it really does come down to circumstances Simon. I'm keen to run the car out at least once a week through the winter if the weather is good enough, and at the very least I want to start it up every day or two, as I think it was Peter that said it would be best to do that to keep the injection system in good order. Not owning a Carcoon, I can't say for sure, but from the video I've seen of it in action and from what I understand about it, it does seem to take some time to assemble and disassemble, and so I don't think it'll be that good for me. In saying that, it does look a good option if space is available and you want to lay the car up for several months, or if a car is being kept outside.

 

In the end, if the route I'm trying now doesn't work, I might still get a Carcoon, but so far what I'm doing does seem to be working. Who knows, if someone from Carcoon sees this thread, maybe they'll send me a freebie to prove me wrong.

 

Darren

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The carcoon has 6 loops around the top edge.

It is possible (I've done it) to support a deflated carcoon from these loops while you unzip the base and drive the car out.

It's then very straightforward to drive back in, zip up the base and turm the fans back on.

There are also rigid "storage bubbles" (see eBay) which are self supporting.

Personally I think the throughput of air method is by far the best.

 

Simon

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I see how the loops can make it more user friendly for those wishing to move or start the car regularly. I'm certainly always open to be convinced, but for the moment I'll see how I get on with the dehumidifier. If nothing else, it's made the garage feel a lot more comfortable to be in, which is a bonus for working in there. If, however, I do decide to get a Carcoon at some point Simon, I'll definitely tell them that it was you who persuaded me, and tell them that you deserve commission.

 

Darren

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I'd bow to Peter about PI systems, but starting every other day? Just for a short while?

Ok if the engine gets fully warmed up and if possible taken for a drive, but otherwise extra wear on starting system and engine to no great benefit, IMHO. If you want to leave it for longer overwinter, drain the old fuel, use it elsewhere, and refill with fresh in the spring . Modern fuel with low lead and perhaps some alcohol goes off in weeks if not used, and becomes more difficult to light and less octanisity.

 

But everyone has their own wintereise advice - perhaps it time for another thread on that subject!

JOhn

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Appreciate the advice about fuel (going off!) John and the possibility of wear on the starting system from starting for short periods. If I do run it without taking it for a drive, then I'll let it get to full temperature. Any other views on that would be greatly appreciated also.

 

Darren

Edited by TR5tar
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  • 1 month later...

I think I said the PI lasts for years trouble-free if run every day - as a daily driver.

Mind you mine was daily driver before ethanol was added to petrol. So maybe one of the additives would be a good idea - did FBHVC ever complete its tests?

Peter

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If you just want to keep the temperature up a simple Frost Stat plug adaptor is useful. Loads available. Allows you to control an appliance based on ambient temperature. You decide the set point. Here is an example

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timeguard-ET05-Plug-In-Electronic-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-for-Heating-/121487519835

 

 

I use one to stop the Well Water Pump from freezing in the winter as its 500m from the house. Combined with a small fan heater set to it lowest setting does the trick.

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If you just want to keep the temperature up a simple Frost Stat plug adaptor is useful. Loads available. Allows you to control an appliance based on ambient temperature. You decide the set point. Here is an example

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timeguard-ET05-Plug-In-Electronic-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-for-Heating-/121487519835

 

 

I use one to stop the Well Water Pump from freezing in the winter as its 500m from the house. Combined with a small fan heater set to it lowest setting does the trick.

 

Hi iain

 

Item not available.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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I have used a Permabag for many years now with great success:

 

https://www.autopyjama.com/permabag-uk/cars/

 

Not the cheapest solution but the car emerges after 5 months in the bag just as it was put in, no corrosion of steel, alloy or anything else. Even the chrome still gleams!

 

No power needed and it takes up not much more room than the car itself.

 

We live on the Pennines with high rainfall and some sort of protection is vital even inside an airy portal barn.

 

I also have a Permabag suitable for a motorbike soon to put on eBay, only used for one winter to protect an expensive planer so virtually as new.

 

This is my Morgan having just emerged from the bag after 5 months inside:MogAfterBag2005-05-14_01_zpseb818805.jpg

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Wows, those permabags aint cheap !

 

The drive in self supporting cartoon seems cheeper, sadly it just wont fit in my single garage and allow me to have a tool bench etc in there :-(

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I think running the engine is not enough, better to drive the car, some say at least 30 miles. One problem with a parked car over a longer period is pressure point corrosion in the bearings, don't ask me how I know, the same goes for the gears,

It might be better to put the car on blocks and rotate the wheels and gears at regular intervals.

 

I use to add a small quantity of 2 stroke marine oil to the fuel all year long about 1/500 , brakes down the acid a little, but has a strong water inhibitor. Up to now it did not show any adverse effects.

 

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Times have changed over the last 25 years, but sadly the depth of my pockets have not.

 

I buy two of those cheap disposable polythene dust sheets, (they must be made of graphene because they are only about a single molecule thick). Lay one on the floor and drive the car over it, fold the sides up and fix to car with small bar magnets, cover the car with the other, and then the car cover with the std.dust sheet as per norm. I only have a small (mini dehumidifier) which I place inside the parcel, but I find that once you have removed the initial ambient humidity it all tends to stay pretty dry and doesn't need much more attention. I should add, I still dose all the chrome with a judicious slap of polish before I tuck it all up for bed.

 

I'm sure its not as efficient as 'all or any of the above', but until ERNIE arrives at my door it'll have to do.

 

+ 1 vote for battery conditioner.

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  • 3 years later...

Just bumping this thread as the title seemed timely... but actually opinions please on a specific Q - to block up garage eaves, or not?

 

Context: double garage, separate from house, on a fairly open site. It's one of those green-oak-framed 'cart shed' types. Walls are feathered cedar boards, tiled roof, uninsulated. No eaves soffits, so breeze blows straight in underneath the eaves all round.

 

Now the oak-framed garage industry's propaganda claims this type of garage is a good design for car storage because although it's unheated, it's dry and very well ventilated. BUT the eaves gaps make it a bit chilly to work in, even with a fan heater going and it feels wrong to be heating the Chilterns in the process.

 

A simple solution would be to plug up most of the eaves gaps with insulation. But how much might that then allow condensation? Is it better to leave it with max airflow and just keep me 'combinations' on when fiddling with the car?? Anyone any experience before/after insulating one of these types of garages?

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I have a similarly ventilated (bl**dy cold) garage but chose to keep it that way to minimise condensation/rust. I now wear an excellent set of Powerfix insulated overalls bought a few years ago from Lidl's on Alec Pringle's recommendation and no longer fear the cold!

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Thanks Brian. Insulated overalls - good wheeze, and looks like no more expensive than a couple of sheets of 50mm Celotex. AND Mrs Bleednipple has been saying I ought to be making some stylish additions to my winter wardrobe. Although I suspect that's part of her campaign to make me get rid of That Old Fleece.

 

Seriously though, I assume the 'high air exchange rate' garage has worked for you then in keeping your TR rust free?

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Sadly the open to all outside air only works to an extent. After all if the car was stored outside under a porch roof free from rain and exposed to the strong movement of air would you be surprised if it developed rust on surfaces, or would you keep a lathe or machine tool outside in the same circumstances...I don't think so. After all if you check the humidity and temperature in your area you'll find a daily variance, and it's the temperature variation causing the humidity to be unable to be retained in the air and handily searching for surfaces to condense on.

Our area today has 83% humidity and is only not forming upon surfaces because it's -3 deg at present, the change in temperature over the last 5 days has only been about 4 deg max and so the humidity which hasn't changed markedly (except when it was snowing a storm) has been around mid 80s and is held in the atmosphere. As soon as the temps resume their fluctuations of overnight 2-3 deg and daily 8-12 the humidity will leap onto any surface that retains temperature and condense overnight into water droplets and thence rust.

 

The Carcoons work slightly counter intuitively, after all the air which passes through them is the outside air passed through carbon and other filters and then either emitted through a zipped outlet which works for drying the car inside if put in wet, or then when the outlet is zipped close for the dry storage of whatever is inside. The carcoon preventing inside large and quick temperature variations which would promote the humidity level condensing upon surfaces, I guess if F1 teams use them they understand the science.

My garage is very similar with under eaves gaps and an air flow both in and out, I've tried sealing the eaves but as expected the heat loss through the uninsulated fibre cement corrugated roofing (like asbestos but safer) allows the interior air to condense upon heat retaining surfaces ie car bodywork, tools etc. To stop stop rust forming upon tools I have localised plastic curtains which hang down over tool racks etc (when I remember) and the car sits inside a Carcoon single size no 3 (from memory).

Somewhat surreal to peer through the carcoon plastic bubble and see brake discs and every thing else which was nice and shiny when put inside in November still shiny without corrosion or moisture whilst I fight a losing battle against the heat change induced condensation and corrosion outside in the garage.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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I have insulated my garage with 100 mm thick rock wool and heat it the entire winter, to 15 degrees C or so.

All tools and my TR parts remain without any rust.

It does not really raise the energy bill too much, maybe 1 m3 gas per day.

And is a pleasure to work there.

Regards,

Waldi

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Seriously though, I assume the 'high air exchange rate' garage has worked for you then in keeping your TR rust free?

It works as well as can be expected for a car that is used all year round and is often put away wet.

Only real rust problems seem to occur on the chrome parts so I will eventually replace bumpers, over-riders and mirror with stainless items.

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