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mleadbeater

Cluch operation.

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Just bled the clutch on my TR2 project, and not happy with clutch operation, as the pedal has to be very near full 'floored' travel to release and allow engagement of 1st gear.

 

My car has a later diaphragm clutch, with a slave cylinder with a piston-retaining circlip fitted ( I assume a TR4 one?), the master cylinder is a new Girling one with built-in reservoir and bore 7/8". I am using silicone fluid, which is well bled, and have adjusted the free play in both the master and slave cylinders as close as possible. The slave cylinder pushrod is in the 3rd hole on the lever, ie the top, and operates from about the 90 degree position when fully engaged.

With my wife operating the pedal I have observed the slave cylinder operating over approximately 1/2 of possible travel.

 

I can think of several mods to improve release:

 

1) Larger master, although these don't seem available, maybe up to 1", I understand the standard is 3/4"?

 

2) Smaller slave cylinder, anyone know if such a thing is available?

 

3) Modifying the position of the yolk on the cross shaft to move the lever starting position forwards, but means obviously a lot of work to remove the engine or gearbox.

 

Are there differences on the length of the release bearings between models? as this could be the problem.

 

4) Make an end to the operating lever, using 2 of the 3 available holes to attach by bolts, so that the lever starts from an effective more than 90 deg position between pushrod and lever, to gain more lever travel.

 

Any suggestions or comment welcome please.

 

Mike

 

 

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What type of slave cylinder do you have and which side of the mounting plate is it fitted?

Stuart.

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Have you got the clutch return assister spring fitted and the adjustable operating rod? If so they're not appropriate to a diaphragm clutch setup. It's supposed to be self adjusting and doesn't require the return spring. Try removing the spring, put the clevis in the centre hole, pump it a few times and see how it feels.

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I think the diaphragm clutch use's a different throw out bearing and bearing carrier. Did you change those to match the pressure plate? Check some part numbers.

 

Dean T.

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In my TR3 I have a GT6 diaphram clutch which uses a Triumph 2000 release bearing.

Slave cylinder is TR3 (Girling), & I have retained the pull off spring.

Master cylinder is TR3 Girling.

 

Clutch operation could not be better.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro

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Thanks guys,

 

Master cylinder is Girling 70, no.64676310, mounted on far side of plate from clevis, will only go on this way.

 

No exterior return spring fitted.

 

No knowledge of release bearing ( throw out )or yolk as already fitted before I bought the car, are later ones longer?

 

May have to live with it, does the pedal release point get higher as the clutch beds in?

 

Cheers

Mike

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Hi MikeTr2 clutch are renowned to be a pain to bleed if its a 2 then it should have a lockheed twin bore master cyl the clutch pipe is 1/4" bore and runs from master cyl up and horizontal along bulkhead down to slave cyl its this horizontal run that the master cylinder dosnt have enough oomph (volume) to expel the air when bleeding ihave seen people with bottles up in garage roof piped to master cyl trying to get gravity to push it through iv been there years ago and my solution was a Mityvac vacuum hand pump this simply goes on the bleed nipple and you operate by hand which pulls much more volume of fluid through which in turn bleeds the 1/4" bore horizontal pipe never fails spring,diapragm, ap etc

Ps my pump is for lends if your anywhere near S Yorks Martin.

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