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Crimping tool for bullet connectors


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I want to replace many of the corroded bullet connectors, but is there a tool in the market place that will also crimp the wire insulation like the originals were done?

I have seen the tool in Vehicle wiring products, 4 sided crimp, but it would seem it doesn't crimp on the insulation as well.

I know there are special bullets for crimping, where is the best source of these?

John

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As far as I can see on my new wiring loom the insulation is not crimped, just the conductor. It's not like a Lucar connector where the insulation is crimped for strain relief. Just my observation, might not be correct.

Edited by peejay4A
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Hi John,

the TT85 give a hex crimp to the bullet but the blurb does not say it crimps the insulation

 

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninscrimps.php

 

The simpler SSCT crimping tool does a very good job but not on the insulation.

 

I think that you really only need the insulation crimp on solder crimps as the flux may weaken the copper strands.

 

Roger

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The ssct crimper is built for the brass? Bullet connectors.

I have tried to buy one before at Stoneleigh but they sell out kind of quick so resorted to soldering

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  • 5 years later...

In my opinion the quality of a crimped bullet connectir is the correct plies AND the brass connectors drilled suitable to the cable.

I use them from german supplier who sells them in different sizes for the standard cable sizes 1.0 mm², 1.5 mm² and 2.5 mm²

Edited by Z320
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On 8/27/2014 at 6:07 PM, John L said:

I want to replace many of the corroded bullet connectors, but is there a tool in the market place that will also crimp the wire insulation like the originals were done?

I have seen the tool in Vehicle wiring products, 4 sided crimp, but it would seem it doesn't crimp on the insulation as well.

I know there are special bullets for crimping, where is the best source of these?

John

Ho John,

You will be lucky to find a cheap crimp tool to give the same quality of crimps that the original OEM Rists (Lucas) harnesses had as, Rists were a major supplier as well, to the death and destruction markets where it is a requirement by the MOD and others like BAE & RR Aero. I hand crimp and solder mine as the alternative!

Bruce

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Hi Bruce

As this is quite an old topic back to 2014, I did actually buy this tool, but didn't pay this much!

I have redone several connections, many different BL cars, but it is important to get the right bullets with the correct hole size for the wire, I have on some of the connections then added a little solder.

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/crimping-tool-solderless-bullets-mtr1350.html

John

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16 hours ago, John L said:

Hi Bruce

As this is quite an old topic back to 2014, I did actually buy this tool, but didn't pay this much!

I have redone several connections, many different BL cars, but it is important to get the right bullets with the correct hole size for the wire, I have on some of the connections then added a little solder.

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/crimping-tool-solderless-bullets-mtr1350.html

John

Crikey that expensive, I use this one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crimping-British-Classic-Motorcycle-Terminal/dp/B00DHG2Z48/ref=psdc_1938311031_t1_B00DGU8B0W

It works well but only if the wire is the correct size for the bullet. I don't bother with solder, if I can't pull it out then its OK.

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Best to purchase good quality crimps like these:

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/crimp-bullet-connectors/1788385/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Connectors_Whoop-_-Crimp+Bullet+Connectors_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&aud-827186183886:pla-30265075389

Soldering crimp terminals is a total no no in the aircraft loom making world that I was involved with in a previous life. The solder shrinks back over time and also creates a weak spot where the solder ends.

 

 

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Solder or crimp - just make sure its done properly !  Working on my Austin Mini project during lock down and have spent a large amount of time trying to chase down an electrical fault to the rear off side indicator - bought this as an abandoned project - PO was a bit of a "maverick" and eventually gave up on the car  (brake calipers fitted upside down - multiple brake compensator valves fitted )   - loom looked to be in excellent condition - possible even new - eventually found the problem in the rear pillar badly wrapped in electrical tape)  - personally I solder brass bullets and use the original bullet sleeves which seem to survive on my Triumph motorbikes which shake and vibrate like anything ! 

IMG_2005.JPG

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On 4/14/2020 at 10:20 AM, DRD said:

Crikey that expensive, I use this one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crimping-British-Classic-Motorcycle-Terminal/dp/B00DHG2Z48/ref=psdc_1938311031_t1_B00DGU8B0W

It works well but only if the wire is the correct size for the bullet. I don't bother with solder, if I can't pull it out then its OK.

Yes the item Moss used to offer was expensive.  It now seems to have gone unavailable from all the sources I know.

I have the same tool which came from Autosparks.  They use the tools to correctly fit the bullets on all the wiring looms they supply.  It is a tool I would not be without when wiring Lucas equipped British cars and fitting Lucas original sized bullets.  You get a factory finish, which maintains the look and originality. 

The Ripaults side squash crimp certainly works OK with tubular brass bullets but seems to distort the roundness of the bullet so it is not a snug fit in the bullet connectors.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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Hi all

After building a few track cars over the years my take on solder or crimp debate is not to solder but buy the best crimping tool you can afford and do it right by both crimping the wire and the insulation, mine cost around £45 each and I have three to cover a lot of different situations as it takes away the doubt and frustration of using tools that do half a job.

Solder flux oxidises and corrodes the copper creates a weak spot were the solder meets the copper wire, any vibration or wires that are unsupported will fail at that point explains why car manufactures don't solder. 

Also avoid the cheap boxes of the red/blue/yellow spade/bullet connectors which are complete **** and ok for school projects instead track down the resin filled ones you need to heat with a heat gun which with the correct crimping tool will give you connections that will rarely if ever give you trouble in the future.

With regard to a tool and the bullets I'll be looking for the best I can find as typically I don't have one! Yet don't you just love collecting tools.

Andy

Edited by PodOne
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16 minutes ago, PodOne said:

Solder flux oxidises and corrodes the copper 

You are using the wrong solder then Andy.  Acid flux solder is only for tin-bashing and should never be used for electrics. Rosin cored solder is completely non-corrosive.

https://www.kester.com/Portals/0/Documents/Knowledge Base/GreenCorrosion_Global.pdf

Soldered connections should always have some form of strain-relief to support the cable to prevent the kind of fracture you are describing.

Edited by RobH
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1 minute ago, RobH said:

You are using the wrong solder then Andy.  Acid flux solder is only for tin-bashing and should never be used for electrics. Rosin cored solder is completely non-corrosive.

https://www.kester.com/Portals/0/Documents/Knowledge Base/GreenCorrosion_Global.pdf

Hi Rob

Good point. 

I never solder but there will be others using the wrong flux or cored solder containing the wrong flux.

Still maintain crimping is best if done well.

Andy

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Hi Andy, I bought a box of those useless Red/Blue/Yellow connectors when I bought my '6' two years ago, can you recommend a decent suppler ?

ThanksPhil

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Part of my job for the last ten years before I retired was making wiring looms for computer racks. We always used crimp connectors supplied by RS. When our company changed hands a load of stuff ended up in the skip so I liberated various items.


Eventually I ran out of RS crimp connectors and was pleased to discover how cheap they were from Screwfix. Only when I started to use them I discovered how inferior they were to the RS ones. I’m not sure why, because I would guess that they are all made to some British Standard number, but I found that the Screwfix ones seemed to be of softer (Thinner?) metal and quite often did not crimp very tight on the wires. With the RS ones I never had a problem.

 

Charlie

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2 hours ago, Phil M said:

Hi Andy, I bought a box of those useless Red/Blue/Yellow connectors when I bought my '6' two years ago, can you recommend a decent suppler ?

ThanksPhil

Hi Phil

Try these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/9 for hot melt glue spades etc and these https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/electrical who sell the to avoid cheap types as well as a good range of other connectors.

Andy

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As per Andy - thumbs up for AES 

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I got some from 12V Planet - we have used them for work in the past.

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12 v planet are good. I've recently  moved to the spade terminals that have a separate insulation.  Much better than the blue, red ,yellow connectors. But you do need the proper crimper. 

Tim

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