Jump to content

Recommended Posts

My clutch peddle was getting more and more play before it started operating the clutch. so I took a look at the master cylinder operating lever where it attaches to the clutch peddle and found what you can see below.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5E2f7j1weUAbFFnWTd2Y1AxZ1k/edit?usp=sharing

 

The pin is very worn and the hole in the master cylinder operating rod is badly elongated. The hole in the clutch pedal lever is also slightly elongated but not as badly as the rod.

 

I replaced the pin and rod which has removed some of the play but there is still significant slack. I guess I will get used to it.

 

Bruce

Link to post
Share on other sites

Over how long a period has the play increased? It takes years to work up elongated holes like the one in the picture. Your problem could be the pin securing the clutch release fork clutch.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestion. I am not sure how long it has been since this was last looked at. I have had the car 18 months and it has slowly been getting worse. There was no grease or other lubricant around when I took it apart. I also think the pin is the wrong size (too small/metric) The clutch works just fine it was just the floppy feel for the first part of the peddle travel that I had an issue with.

 

I did think about either bushing or welding up the peddle but I think it is OK now I have repleced the rod and pin.

 

Hope its not indicative of other clutch problems. <_<

Edited by brucer
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem with wear in pin and hole at top of clutch pedal on my GT6 years ago. Like Pete, I had the hole in the pedal welded and redrilled for pennies. But there wasn't a problem with the feel of the pedal, I only repaired it because I was fed up with it rattling on bumpy roads.

 

If the pedal feels floppy, the wear in the pin and hole are probably not the cause. I would look at the hydraulics first - check for leaks, replace slave and/or mater cylinder if leaking, bleed the system and see how it feels. It's worth getting the pedal hole welded up anyway so you know that's right.

 

Once you know the hydraulics and pedal hole/pin are ok, the problem may well be gone. But if not, time to look deeper and by a process of elimination it may be the clutch fork securing pin, as Inge suggests. Check that last, as no one wants to take a gearbox out just for fun.

 

 

Nigel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestion Nigel. The problem is much improved with new master cylinder actuation rod and pin. I did replace all the hydraulic fluid while I was at it, since the fluid that was in there was very cloudy and brown.

 

Happy with the result.

 

Bruce

Link to post
Share on other sites

Are the pedals rattling on their pivot shaft? Originally some cars were fitted with plastic bushes in the pedals and these often wear badly/fall out. Try wobbling the pedals from side to side to check. Simple fitment of proper bushes to rectify.

 

5/16" pin was orig in the car clevis pin from pedal to m/cyk push rod.

 

Cheers

Peter W

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.