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So what happening in your garage this weekend?

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20 hours ago, RogerH said:

This will allow me to tidy up the some wiring. I hope the smoke stays put :o

Roger 

 

6 hours ago, iani said:

Gearbox out, now having a stab at neatening the wiring mess.

 

Tip :   I've found velcro really excellent for tidying up wiring.  It's very much easier to use, and offers far broader support to wires than cable ties ,  and it doesn't chafe the paintwork on things like my motorcycle frame, in fact it can be used as padding to protect it.  I use the black stuff with hooks on one side and loops on the other. 

Admittedly, on the face of it - it doesn't appear to be cheap,  ie. < here >  but I bought a roll (25m) and just cut off 3 or 4" at a time. So one roll has lasted me for ages, even though I find it so incredibly useful and neat that unless I need a really small tie,  I use it all the time.  Indeed I even use it to wrap all sorts of cables on my cars, motorcycles, and boat. I also use it for extension leads, or HT Leads, or pipes, and even when coiling my power-tool cables or the leads or my multi-meter ..so they don't all get in a tangle when not in use.  And I've used it to tighten around the cuffs and ankles of my clothes when I battled with wasps in the garden.!   Of course Velcro is re-useable time and time again, so what was used for one task might end up subsequently being used for something completely different.    

Just a thought. Pete.

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Everlasting Velcro?   Certainly when it was invented that was the pitch, and clothes with buttons or zips would be things of the past.    But it's not that durable!   At least not for things that need to be washed.    Great for single use, but not that great for repeated use.   I had a pair of trainers with Velcro fasteners in place of laces.     The Velcro ceased to be reliable after a few months of wearing them.

John

Edited by john.r.davies

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:)

I concur that Velcro ® (or any version your trainers may have used) isn't really great when it it is being repeatedly over stressed  ..such as when used to fasten cloths and/or shoes. And it's also pretty useless after a few washes, most likely because the heat and fabric softener soften or unwind the hooks or they get filled with fluff from other clothes.  But I've used it for five or six years now on my daily-ride motorcycles, under bonnet & under dashboard of my classic cars, and on my boat.  I use it in the garage, and in my home. It's just my opinion John, but for what I use it for - its far better for cables and pipes than either cable-ties (and I've tried all sorts and of different materials) or tape.

No, it's not ever-lasting. Nor is it useful for everything under the sun.  But I find it very useful indeed. .  ;)

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Yesterday was terrible. I spent all day trying to work out why the footbrake worked but the handbrake didn't on a Mini One a few days before the MOT. Decided to put the wheels back on and sleep on the problem. Today success. The callipers (single piston) slide on guide pins which are located inside rubber tubes fitted into the callipers. Over time moisture works its way between the rubber and the aluminium and corrosion sets in. This expands and constricts the rubber sleeves which in turn stops the callipers sliding on the guide pins. Today I pushed out the rubber sleeves, cleaned up the very slight bit of corrosion and refitted with silicone grease, More silicone on the guide pins and the callipers slide easily now and the handbrake works a treat. Who would have thought that such a small problem could stop the handbrake working completely. I have stored this useful bit of info in the old grey cells and made a metal note that when it comes to brakes - make sure everything that should move does.

Maybe now I can get back to the TR and the long overdue gearbox removal.

Keith

p.s. I read with envy the posts on page 51 about those of you with 4 post lifts and garages that are enormous. I will have to take the door off the TR to get the gearbox out. Last time (I was younger then and fitter) I lifted it over the door as I stepped over the door and scratched the surrey top frame. I won't do that again.

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Making an overdrive solenoid access door and Dynamating the transmission tunnel. 
You just cut it to shape, stick it down, smooth it out and trim the edges.......sounds simple doesn’t it:wacko:

D02C0941-4625-4535-864C-D57B75F0A0DE.jpeg

Edited by Drewmotty

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Hi Drewmotty ~

I used a rope around the bell housing to help remove my 3A gearbox.  Always check the rear camshaft coreplug and the clutch fork actuating bolt.

I also fitted an extra bolt to secure the clutch fork. You can also fit a rollpin. I modified my gearbox cover with multi inspection panels.

Mine was sheared.

Tom.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Fireman049

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Fitted blue LED's to my instruments, they have blue filters so much better than green, I have removed the rheostat too so max brightness. I also fitted a new dash, complete with additional gauge hole, Tomorrow I'm going to put the interior back in and hopefully get to drive the car and check out my new gearbox & OD.

 

one.jpg

two.jpg

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Hi folks,

I may have mentioned over the last few days that I am trying to tidy the rats nest of wires behind the dashboard.

In an attempt to keep wire runs shortish I have  got a +ve and -ve bus running across the dash area.

To this end I have required an 8 way bullet socket connector. So thinking cap on.

Remove the metal female receptacle from a 2 way bullet socket. Stack 4 of these and then heat shrink wrap them together. For safety I then anchored them together with a plastic tie wrap.

So I have one wire in and eight out 

Also to test the various systems with the dash board out I fit a modern blade fuse (10amps) between the Brown and Brown/white wires that would normally be fitted t the ammeter.

This way I can power up what I need.   Hopefully when the dash goes back everything should work.

Another cheapo Bosch drill went phut today - the cost about £30-£40 and last about three years.  Today I bought a battery drill - not expensive. If it shows promise I may well buy a better/expensive one.

 

Roger

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Nothing happening in my garage at the weekend, going to take the car out for a good workout and try and forget that Virus madness. There is one thing for certain when I get behind the wheel of the TR I will be in seventh heaven.

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Will lock me there to do some carpenter work,

3 board of oak hopefully will be 3 window boards - or firewood....

It's the first time I work with oak.

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Not a lot happening at the moment after engine rebuild, had the car on the rolling road last week for final set up, so she’s having a wash to get dust and fingerprints of the wings, then this afternoon I going to pop out for a run in the hills away from everybody self isolation.

Mike. Redrose group 

16C3A1D4-D319-49F2-916C-083AAA5854BE.jpeg

3A241D50-F50F-44C7-9F9D-3A808551B0D2.jpeg

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17 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi folks,

I may have mentioned over the last few days that I am trying to tidy the rats nest of wires behind the dashboard.

In an attempt to keep wire runs shortish I have  got a +ve and -ve bus running across the dash area.

To this end I have required an 8 way bullet socket connector. So thinking cap on.

Remove the metal female receptacle from a 2 way bullet socket. Stack 4 of these and then heat shrink wrap them together. For safety I then anchored them together with a plastic tie wrap.

So I have one wire in and eight out 

Also to test the various systems with the dash board out I fit a modern blade fuse (10amps) between the Brown and Brown/white wires that would normally be fitted t the ammeter.

This way I can power up what I need.   Hopefully when the dash goes back everything should work.

Another cheapo Bosch drill went phut today - the cost about £30-£40 and last about three years.  Today I bought a battery drill - not expensive. If it shows promise I may well buy a better/expensive one.

 

Roger

 Hi Roger,

Bosch used to run an exchange service and repair at Denham their UK HQ at their service centre? I have used it a number of times but I think that it may have moved to Uxbridge? Can save you some cash!

Bruce.

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Hi Bruce,

it was a cheapo Bosch and I was getting rather frustrated with it as it wasn't tightening drills too well.  The new battery drill is fun. I like gadgets.

It is not expensive  - Mac Allister - but works ( for the moment).

 

Roger 

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Roger,

I bought a 14V Dewalt battery drill some 4 yers ago. Not too expensive, like 130 euros when on sale. I thought long if it was worth it, but dumped the cheap one and bought a quality item, not only do they last longer, but every time I take it out of its nice suitcase, is a moment of joy.

Be nice to Sue, she knows you want it.

Cheers,
Waldi

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On Kedr i have a compact Dewalt 10.8 volt drill and impact screwdriver set, surprisingly good for 10.8v!

in the workshop its Makita 18v lxt drill, 1/2 impact wrench, impact screwdriver, sander, circular saw, led light, zenon light, leaf blower.......

ok maybe i have a problem !

steve

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Over the winter I have been feeding the wild birds - Goldfinches, various tits, Parakeets etc etc.  This means have a fair quantity of bird seed of various trype Niger seed Peanuts mixed feed etc 

A fact not lost on the rodent community. In mid Jan I spotted the first signs of meeces.  Sometime in early March I bought a couple of standard mousy TRaps and baited them with cheese.

Absolutely no luck at all. I thought (in my innocence) that they had scarpered. Not a chance.

So the other day I ventured out and bought some pricey TRaps. Bingo, I captured 2 this morning. However I know there is at least one more as both the dead ones had been nibbled - yuk.

As for bait, well they liked the bird seed so much that is what I used.

I wonder what awaits tomorrow.

Roger

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Hi Waldi/Steve

my cheapo battery drill is a Mac Allister. It certainly works well. Not sure for how long though.  It is an 18V drill with two batteries. Charges quickly.

Only cost £50. I also have a Bosch battery screw driver thingy. I bought this last summer in order to undo/tighten numerous M3 screws on the TR4 hood attachments.

This is an absolute treat to use. It tightens very tightly and can undo tight screws - what more do you want.

 

Roger

 

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Protective suit in contained envelope, next stage of self isolation ?

No just injecting the chassis.

Good weather forecast for this week so hopefully wheels back on tomorrow and a bit of self isolating in the TR.

Keep save all.

Phil.

IMG_3982.jpg

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19 minutes ago, Phil H 4 said:

Protective suit in contained envelope, next stage of self isolation ?

No just injecting the chassis.

Good weather forecast for this week so hopefully wheels back on tomorrow and a bit of self isolating in the TR.

Keep save all.

Phil.

IMG_3982.jpg

Hi Phil,

I see the "new" Rimmer uprated shock absorber link on your photo!

Please report.

And please allow me to mention, I would remove the paint from the brake drum where the wheel is steel on steel.

Marco

Edited by Z320

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Hi Marco,

The links have only been on for about 2000 miles but have been trouble free, changed when I fitted Revington Red/Yellow springs, set up works well with Red/Blue on the front and new dampers. Lever arms keep leaking, have had rebuilt but thinking of changing to a Type 2A conversion from the TR shop.

Could you expand re the paint on the brake drums. Have I done the wrong thing painting them ( used high temp paint) picture shows them before painting.

I can see abrasion at the stud holes, is this where the paint may be an issue.

Phil

73.jpg

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Hi Phil,

I made my own links with rose joints years ago, but this was much effort.

The uprated Rimmer links seem to be a good and easy solution to me.

Sorry about I make you worry about the paint: it can not hold the pressure and your wheels can go slack.

Why I know?

The previous owners of my TR painted everything, so I had slack wire wheels adaptors and slack brake discs until I realized.

One the photo above you see how the paint moved away, fine if you had no problems.

Ciao, Marco

 

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Thanks Marco,

The wheels haven’t gone back on yet so I might burnish back around the studs. Thanks for the advice.

Phil 

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I've got round to changing the twin 'wheel barrow' exhaust to a big bore Phoenix standard style one. 

Had to drill a hole for the inner back box mount as the replacement chassis never had it. 

20200327_104736.thumb.jpg.fd5aafcce638970d4967d17979e99858.jpg

20200327_125255.jpg

Edited by Mk2 Chopper
Add picture

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Adapted a pair of sidescreen exterior door handles to operate the garden gate bottom bolt.

image.jpeg

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