Jump to content

So what happening in your garage this weekend?


Recommended Posts

Like Steve, I also have the same model. I have bolted it to the concrete  floor. The floor being 4 inches thick with reinforcement safety mesh.

Good price for a 4 post lift, and most important it operates on 240V single phase. 

Purchased it in 2014. Never had a problem in assembly and general use. Very pleased with it.

Spent the W/E inspecting the 1992  Jaguar XJ40 prior to its pending MOT.

 

 

Jaguar + TR + MGB-GT.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Stuart-- Some better pics of the tubing straightener. The aluminum blocks are 7" x 1" x 0.5".  You should be able to closely estimate the other dimensions from those, though none are particularly

Morning all,  got the job finished gearbox out the only thing that got in the way was the flap on the bottom of the heater. Now got to clean all parts take off and tidy up things under the dash as the

Preparing my Ford Zodiac MK4 Executive for sale. Too may classic to look after!

Posted Images

1 hour ago, Mick Forey said:

I also have had the same/similar lift for about 5 years. Took it with me when we moved house 2 years ago. Never fixed it to the floor. It is very stable. Mine was £1400 delivered. Great value for money. Transformed working on the TRs. I wish I had a jacking beam for it.

Mick

Yeah ...of course a non secured 4 post lift is a good idea, they definitely don't need it...

collapsed_lift_4.jpg.550f46bf8493761ad45c8a698948de7f.jpg

 

NOT ! 

Secure the posts to the floor, it's not difficult and can save somebodies life even if it isn't you under it when this happens.

Mick Richards

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Iruka said:

Hi John, 

it is designed to be moveable without a vehicle on it, the wheels are removed before putting a vehicle on it. Have to determine the final working position and will secure with the floor fixings then. 

I had the floor laid to the correct specification when the garage extension was built so no worries there!

Steve

Hence the braces to each leg?   What are they for?  Surely you would lower the bed to the floor before moving it?

Glad you have the floor sorted!  It happens to the less wise!   (HSE photograph!)

collapsed car lift.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

Concrete grade C25 (25N/mm2, 28 day strength) depth of approximately 350 mm

Flip me Steve - nearly 14" of steel reinforced concrete?....that is one hell of a slab - no chance of that lift sinking!

Edited by Chilliman
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you lower it, you can lift each of the 4 poles with a removable wheel, and then move the entire lift. I never did, but it is possible. There are no braces from post to post on mine. The pic from John above is a 2 post lift, there are cables and/or hydraulics in that “bracing”.

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi John, John,

The requirements were for 300mm depth of concrete. The garage extension was only part of a building project so there was plenty of readymix available!!

The wheels shown in the photos are normally removed. They are simply held on with pins and R clips. They are forced into contact with the floor when the ramp is fully lowered. They lift the posts by about 5mm. 

I went for a four post lift as I want to park two cars in the garage. One on the raised ramp and one underneath. It has dual mechanical safety locks on each post so no chance of the upper car creeping down. Wasn't keen on fitting a two post lift and leaving a car raised for any amount of time without the suspension etc being loaded. 

Regards

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alan Gill,

If I read your photo aright, yours IS bolted down.    If you want to and fit those castor wheels, and undo the feet, does it lift them off the floor when you lower it?

The supplier's spec sheet isn't clear: https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/AS-4T36S-spec-high.pdf

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi John,

I have the same lift. Once you lower the lift (empty), the 4 posts are lifted off the ground. It is an “equator or evener” principle. Do not know the correct English word, sorry. It can then be moved around.

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

My weekend has started early this week..

..I've been suffering garage envy  ..you know who you are  !  ..you people with gorgeously clean and bright garage spaces 

So this afternoon my garage started like this . .

P1330702s.thumb.jpg.acbc0f6fbfca0086058b20f62e5f9bb6.jpg

P1330704s.thumb.jpg.d6a14502d52eb817896f8a4e19a9bd63.jpg

^ chipboard sheets that had been painted with household gloss paint..  Wear by the bench, despite there being a rug there most of the time. Scarred from numerous motorcycle centre stands, and spills.

..And by 4:30pm it was like this .  .  with about three quarters of the garage floor freshly repainted.. 

P1330710s.jpg.8765bc82a973d08c21f6dea0729281ef.jpg

I've lived here some 14 years now (it's a rented house) and soon after I moved in - I laid the 3/4" chipboard floor over a foam plastic membrane and gave it a coat of inexpensive paint.  I have touched it up once but with a heavy car being parked in there for a a couple of years, my own motorcycle centre stands digging in, plus a lot of work ranging from building a wooden boat to car restoration work, to using this space for two years restoring motorcycles (professionally),  to bending, grinding and welding-up a coal burning stove.,  it's had its fair share of use.

Tomorrow I'll move Katie across to the other side and paint the floor along that side.   It's only a single coat but so much brighter.  B)

Pete.

 

  
 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fixing a leak on the exhaust manifold, painting the air intake manifold, resetting the tappets, topping up the brake and clutch fluid, changing the plugs, fitting a new USB socket and making two new console panels.

Or I might just sit in the garage and look lovingly at the car.

Link to post
Share on other sites

.

Non TR stuff happening in my garage, as I'm waiting upon the machine shop so instead decided to get on with sorting a bike engine engine ready before I can put it together.

This engine is from my twin-cylinder OHC Sunbeam 500cc has air-cooled cast aluminium crankcases with steel liner.   A few years ago, because I was very busy with another project - I passed it over to a professional to rebuild (..supposedly with an agreed price for labour and as a fill-in job).   I was out of the country for just two weeks and came back to a bill already over twice the agreed ..and with the engine totally in bits.  I immediately halted the work, paid the bill and collected it.  I was polite but very disappointed that he had not kept to our agreement.  Still I thought "OK all the cleaning and machining is done - I'll just need to reassemble it". 

However, when I saw what had been done and the sloppy standard of workmanship - I was less than impressed.  I set to reworking things, and after a drain-down test decided to scrap the cylinder-head which he had said was done.  Upset, I moved on to examine other parts.  Another of the things he'd done, or said he had done by the engineering company, was to replace the scored rear cylinder sleeve for another. The replacement was a used part but a good one, and with honing was of the same dimensions as the forward cylinder. 

To my mind it was odd that its location peg didn't line up. One such peg, for each sleeve, is used to ensure the sleeve's cutout clearance is aligned to the valves.  OK, no big deal - he had used a front cylinder sleeve in the rear cylinder ..and so had drilled a new hole for its location peg.   Me being me., I needed to be sure the sleeve was sealed in the block.  It was not.!   Unlike our Triumph engines - the head gasket doesn't seal around the top of the sleeve ..so had he ..or I,  assembled the engine - then there would have been no compression on that cylinder. 

I was faced with the awkward choice of taking that sleeve out again ..to properly seal it,  or to try and seal it from the outside.  If there's such a thing as 'normally' - I would have removed it. But these sleeves have a tendency to crack when they are removed, and also this had been fitted and then the gasket face machined.  I felt I dare not run the risk of taking it out and then trying to get it back in exactly the same place.  Nor did I wish to replace it for yet another ..which in turn would mean the cyl. head had to be skimmed again !

I researched a locking compound which would withstand the temperatures involved and which was formulated to be wicking.  Loctite did one but I couldn't buy it in this country, even through themselves.  So I had a pot shipped from the US.  Unfortunately UPS had made a mistake and even before it got to me it got sent back.  It then took almost two months before it was sorted and I received what I had ordered.  By which time I was so annoyed ..that (for it's own safety !) the engine was put away.  And I moved on to doing something else.  Next week, that would be three years ago.!

This weekend, being frustrated with not being able to get on and rebuild my TR4 engine, I pulled the Sunbeam engine back out and decided to get on with it. . .

P1330756s.jpg.3a1433cef6f7ee195b591eaab40f7f62.jpg  

Rear cylinder sleeve (to the right) with a double dam of blu-tack  all the way around the crack between it and the engine case.   To the right hand side you can see the forward cylinder sleeve with its locating pin (dowel) and the cutout clearances for the valves ..which prevent the head gasket from sealing the two parts.

P1330760s.jpg.b4ddbb62cf65b854fce3e1f171daa7ed.jpg

^ photographed from the rear, with and electric fan heater warming the aluminium crankcase (to about 30 deg c.) to encourage it to thermally expand, and a glass jar filled with ice water and wrapped in a wet tea-towel push fitted into the cylinder's bore - to encourage the sleeve to contract.  The dam is filled with VHT wicking Loctite and the whole case was vibrated (using a block sander underneath) to encourage the fluid to wick down inside the crack. 

After the first three or four refills to the top of the dam, the fluid stopped draining away.  It was left overnight and although the Loctite was still wet today, it hadn't drained away any more.  The engine block is now sitting on top of the radiator to keep it warm, and to try and dry that fluid.  

I'm hopeful that this 'fix' will work, otherwise the engine will have to be dismantled again and the sleeve removed. 

Only time will tell. !

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bonnet and boot hinge pins made and the hinges prepared for paint.

Used 13/64”  brass rod for bonnet to take up wear.  Boot have boot rack mounts in stainless.

 

Peter W

 

4F904BAD-EB51-4BBD-BA70-CACAA1CC184C.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gearbox & OD coming out on Saturday morning, swapping for recon units from Pete Cox. Whilst out I'm looking to tidy up some dash wiring (having got it all working tonight), new dash inbound from Classical Dash too so have to take the dash out anyway.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tomorrow I shall make a start in removing the 4A dash top crash pad.

The one fitted at the moment has its outer corners turning up like BR sandwiches.

This will allow me to tidy up the some wiring. I hope the smoke stays put:o

 

Roger 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gearbox out, now having a stab at neatening the wiring mess.

 

 

1E62004B-D2BA-4B77-A168-3E4DCBA006AF.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

As part of installing new 3-point safety harnesses (Securon 500/30 as recommended on here) I had to install a welded anchor point in the rear inner wings. I should have done this when the body was blasted, but forgot to think about this then. Now done.

Waldi

 

edit: why is it that pictures rotate if you upload them?B63BAD79-B946-4FE8-BC14-C38CFCC0CC4C.jpeg.1ee35524cef2813f09262005aadffb88.jpeg

Edited by Waldi
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Waldi said:

why is it that pictures rotate if you upload them?

Photo files include a piece of data called an EXIF tag. This records whether you took it in landscape or portrait orientation. Computers and phones can read the tag and so usually automatically rotate the photo, if required, to display it correctly which is why it looks Ok to you. 

Many websites - this one included-  do not have a function to read the tag and so they just display the photo 'as received'.  

The way to overcome this is before uploading, display it on your device the way it should be and then save a copy under a new name.  The copy will be saved in the correct orientation so upload that instead of the original. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today I started to fit a new dash top crash pad to the 4A.

This means stripping out quite a bit - steering wheel & shaft etc

I decided to take the 'H' dash support out also as I noticed the tp had broken away (enlarged radio hole).

The wiring has been added to over the last 22 years and it is quite frightening - so there will be some serious tidying up.

I bought a new grab handle crash pad but things may be going awry. I'll keep you updated on that one.

It is a shame that the hole for the steering shaft in the dash is not a slot. As this means the shaft must be removed. 

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, RobH said:

Photo files include a piece of data called an EXIF tag. This records whether you took it in landscape or portrait orientation. Computers and phones can read the tag and so usually automatically rotate the photo, if required, to display it correctly which is why it looks Ok to you. 

Many websites - this one included-  do not have a function to read the tag and so they just display the photo 'as received'.  

The way to overcome this is before uploading, display it on your device the way it should be and then save a copy under a new name.  The copy will be saved in the correct orientation so upload that instead of the original. 

 

 

Thanks for the explanation Rob, learnt something today. I took the foto with my I phone and held it “vertical”. The TR site then rotates it 90 degrees.

Regards,

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.