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So what happening in your garage this weekend?


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Hi Rob,

the magnet has a good effect on the hall Effect sensor. So much so it would be noce to reduce the field somewhat.

I know Mumetal is used to screen coils etc  but is not easily come by. Would copper or steel reduce it

 

Roger

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Stuart-- Some better pics of the tubing straightener. The aluminum blocks are 7" x 1" x 0.5".  You should be able to closely estimate the other dimensions from those, though none are particularly

Morning all,  got the job finished gearbox out the only thing that got in the way was the flap on the bottom of the heater. Now got to clean all parts take off and tidy up things under the dash as the

Preparing my Ford Zodiac MK4 Executive for sale. Too may classic to look after!

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You might find very thin steel sheet would help Roger. it redirects the field along the metal so if you get the size and shape right it should reduce the intensity. If you get it wrong it will cut the field altogether !  Perhaps a disk with a hole in the centre ?

 

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Diff output shafts had new bearings & seals fitted, put them back in the casing, pinion oil seal changed, bearing seemed fine. Diff casing painted, strengthening webs being welded on tomorrow along with mounting pin reinforcements. Thought brake adjusters looked a bit scabby, decided to pop them off for a strip & clean, one mounting nut sheared off on both sides, two new adjusters ordered, no drive for me tomorrow.

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Decided to try to rebuild my very old Karcher jetwash.

i’m unsure when i bought it.... but it’s more than 25 years ago possibly 30!

it’s a 401 model which has ‘made in germany’ quality.

bought it originally for house use, then it lived on a yacht for 2 years, then 15 or so years at the current house.

zero maintenance  in all this time !

of late the power switch is unreliable, so today i took the cover off and extracted the switch.

bit of a search online and new switch ordered, don’t you love the internet!

so i cleaned everything up, the motor and pump are like new !, housing a little weatherworn but serviceable, couple of new o-rings and ready to reassemble when the switch arrives.

shall post photos when the switch arrives.

Steve

 

 

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I replaced the diff nose seal on the TR4. 
I borrowed a flange holding tool from Chilliman but didn’t need it as after I’d removed the split pin I found that the nut could be removed by hand!:o:o:o

Half the backlash on reassembly :D

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21 hours ago, iani said:

Diff output shafts had new bearings & seals fitted, put them back in the casing, pinion oil seal changed, bearing seemed fine. Diff casing painted, strengthening webs being welded on tomorrow along with mounting pin reinforcements. Thought brake adjusters looked a bit scabby, decided to pop them off for a strip & clean, one mounting nut sheared off on both sides, two new adjusters ordered, no drive for me tomorrow.

All done, now waiting for the paint to dry and I'll fill with dinitrol rust prevention fluid.

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Just a bit of bling to brighten up the engine bay Yellow HT leads485654AE-A6D8-4929-9FD5-5D8244518871.jpeg.3181fb62803ce9fff71796e505c9660e.jpeg

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Well, nothing TR wise but I have been putting the CB750's front end back together.

Since late December the forks have been off and on more times than I care to count!  But have now finally fitted the headlight brackets, forks and the headlight.  Working with new paintwork caused a lot of tense moments ('new paint anxiety' :wacko:) and working out how the chrome rings held the fork gaiters in place took me ages to figure out, but in the end was quite simple with the help of my Bev's Nicky Clarke hair dryer....:rolleyes:

I'm pleased with the results so far and my Honda is now starting to look like a bike again.

The next jobs are to balance the carbs and fit new tyres, probably Dunlops, I haven't decided yet.

Cheers, Andrew

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My weekend came early, I got home early PM today and started putting my rear end together again. CV driveshafts fitted, new diff input seals & output bearings & seals all mounted on reinforced pins. Test drive proved that most clunks have gone, I'm very pleased with that. Tomorrow's "quick" job will be elongating the door glass stop screw slots to get my glass to meet the hardtop, other than that it's fuel up ready for the run to Stoneleigh.

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Checked the poundage rate of the valve springs to be sure they were below the 160 lb max quoted by Newman for their cam I am fitting. They came in at 85 and 40 at full compression. Total therefore 125 lbs

Peter W

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Checked the poundage rate of the valve springs to be sure they were below the 160 lb max quoted by Newman for their cam I am fitting. They came in at 85 and 40 at full compression. Total therefore 125 lbs

I like the set up Peter, but isn't there a contribution from the slideway or am I overthinking the mechanics of friction?

Regards

Bill 

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2 hours ago, Bill944T said:

Checked the poundage rate of the valve springs to be sure they were below the 160 lb max quoted by Newman for their cam I am fitting. They came in at 85 and 40 at full compression. Total therefore 125 lbs

I like the set up Peter, but isn't there a contribution from the slideway or am I overthinking the mechanics of friction?

Regards

Bill 

Direct pull through the spring resisted by the tool post through a Jag dynamo adjuster bolt to the spring balance that is gripped by the chuck.  No slide way resistance involved.  Used the longitudinal travel to pull the balance and compress the spring.

 

Peter W

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3 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:

A brilliant setup Peter, I wish I'd thought of that before I spent up on a proper spring pressure tool.

Yes, I understand.   My brother and I spent a while with me pulling the weight scale balance and him holding the spring against a part opened bench vice jaw.   He went home and I rethought our task and remembered seeing the lathe method used before.

 

Peter W

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Wet afternoon replacing the front valance. I'd repaired the old one but it had a few thin areas so when this one came up I thought I'd replace it with this one which still needed some fettling to fit well. Just the other side to finish.

 

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Stuck some GOODPARTS CV axles in my driver; took 5 hours. Excellent stuff, instructions etc. I sought to eliminate a rather mild hum at 65-75 mph but it's still there :(.

Anyway, they are a little tighter and time will tell if the fuel economy improves ( bearings are ball rather than roller, dunno of CVs are more efficient than Cardans ).

 

Tom

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Finally finished putting together my new four post ramp. No more crawling on the floor at last! Now to get to those oil leaks!!

Steve

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Hi John, 

it is designed to be moveable without a vehicle on it, the wheels are removed before putting a vehicle on it. Have to determine the final working position and will secure with the floor fixings then. 

I had the floor laid to the correct specification when the garage extension was built so no worries there!

Steve

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I have the same lift, probably. Chineese product, but after several years with no issues I’m happy with it.

Waldi

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I also have had the same/similar lift for about 5 years. Took it with me when we moved house 2 years ago. Never fixed it to the floor. It is very stable. Mine was £1400 delivered. Great value for money. Transformed working on the TRs. I wish I had a jacking beam for it.

Mick

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Hi Phil,

The lift is from Automotech  Services Ltd. Model AS-4T36S

As Waldi says it is probably made in China. That said I must admit to being impressed by the construction and materials used. Was relatively easy to put together but you need an engine crane as some of the parts are too heavy to lift comfortably by two persons. Everything you need is provided ( including the floor bolts), but not the hydraulic oil. It comes on a rack that weighs about 750 kg!

The floor was laid as per the instructions.

Concrete grade C25 (25N/mm2, 28 day strength) depth of approximately 350 mm. Just to be on the safe side we laid in a steel mesh reinforcement as well. 

Steve

 

 

 

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