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So what happening in your garage this weekend?


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Stuart-- Some better pics of the tubing straightener. The aluminum blocks are 7" x 1" x 0.5".  You should be able to closely estimate the other dimensions from those, though none are particularly

Morning all,  got the job finished gearbox out the only thing that got in the way was the flap on the bottom of the heater. Now got to clean all parts take off and tidy up things under the dash as the

Preparing my Ford Zodiac MK4 Executive for sale. Too may classic to look after!

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That was my first and probably last bike restore--not my bike, everything stripped down except gearbox and engine as the owner told me it had been done- hope its better than the rest of the bike was oh my I could write a book about what I found wrong with it- I am ocd and spent many hours getting every nut and bolt as far as possible correct--2 of them aren't and difficult to notice  I think only I would know lol. So this year I can focus at last on my TR rebuild and will follow the same ocd process which I had already started much to the annoyance of my mechanic friend. 

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Hi Michael,

no not my lift but Pete’s; I was just quoting his post.

You have a really nice motorcycle, I had to google OCD, now I know what’s wrong (or is it right?) with me:)

Cheers,

Waldi

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I like the speed twin  ..physically too small for me but a great piece of engineering for its era and a pleasant bike to ride when sorted.  Looks like you've done a superb job. B)

 

19 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:

is that a motorbike stand underneath all that plywood

Yes it's a Clark 500kg unit which I bought almost new off ebay for £30.  It looked like a good idea and has a compact footprint ..for use in my single garage. Those like yours are great but are very much more expensive and then also take up more space. 

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^ In practice it was not a lot of use as it was.  The bike's centre stand, curved frame tubes, and other stuff underneath don't work well with the two support pads.  And then the bike is not fixed/clamped down, so the whole bike can twist & possibly fall off as you focus on undoing tight fastenings.  And when you do get the bike lifted - it's small sideways footprint is so unstable ..it is very dangerous.  Take one wheel off and the balance is completely wrong.  I'm surprised they are legal.  

I used it briefly with my 850 Norton commando but after it toppled over - I resolved the issues by making brackets and bolting a packing case (screwed and glued construction and made of 3/4" plywood) over it.  That sits on the floor when I'm putting the bike on and off the lift (up a plank) so it's very stable,  and then I have legs which clamp to it when lifted - again for stability. The bike's front wheel clamps between two timber uprights - so I can safely move it (with the bike on it) around the garage. 

After taking ' voluntary ' redundancy I set myself up in business - professionally restoring the post-war Sunbeam bikes, so it's subsequently been used a great deal.  When not required for use, I park a bike on it so the garage floor space is not lost.  And as you can see I also use it as a mobile / adjustable height work-bench ..so it pays for it's accommodation even when no motorcycle is being worked on.  £30 well spent.  B)

Pete

 

Edited by Bfg
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New fan heater arrived so set the thermostat to ‘toasty’ and heated up the TR ready for hood stretching!

first i had a ‘test stretch’ without any glue and then used spray carpet adhesive on just the top edge of the frame header to guage if stretch was right.

seems it was as with some effort i could just close the roof and it looked good!

so i opened the roof and clamped the hood to the rail while the glue goes off fully

now awaiting a header and side trim fitting kit to arrive at the TRShop, and then i can complete fitting.

steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Off early to Wickes to purchase a supply of evostick, and completed glueing the hood to the header rail.

off to the cinema lunchtime then back in the garage to rivet on the seal retainer and fit the seal

as i remember this job challenges the patience !

looking forward to having the car mobile again.

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success!

riveted the three rail pieces on and fitted the seal

I fitted a new seal a few years ago and remember it being a pig of a job, but today it wasn’t too bad

steve

C4FCC1EE-0984-455F-81F7-6A9AD40DFDFD.jpeg

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15 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said:

success!

riveted the three rail pieces on and fitted the seal

I fitted a new seal a few years ago and remember it being a pig of a job, but today it wasn’t too bad

steve

C4FCC1EE-0984-455F-81F7-6A9AD40DFDFD.jpeg

Now trim the excess hood material off behind the channel for a good job.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Now trim the excess hood material off behind the channel for a good job.

Stuart.

Indeed Stuart.

trim the seal to length  and the Excess vinyl,

also need to fit the new side channels,seals and velcro 

roof is very tight but just about closes, which is probably about right in January!

steve

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Quote

Yes it's a Clark 500kg unit

Also totally brilliant for dropping air cooled engines out of the back of Dubs.....:D

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Next step - glueing on the vinyl/velcro side fittings

used spray carpet adhesive and job was easier than expected !

let those dry and i can fit the aluminium track and window seals next 

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Hi Folks,

I like dabbling with electronics. I haven't a trained clue what I'm doing but then what did DaVinci know when started out.

Back in November my 18 month TR6 (14W) wiper motor would not turn off.

The park switch had failed and so the wipers didn't know where they were.

Upon inspection of the park switch it was obvious that the construction and materials was rubbish.

The pin had worn down (in 18 months) and so wasn't actuating the change over switch.

I do not know the mortality rate of these things but clearly a contact type switch is always prone to wear.

So technology is required. There is a natty little device called a Hall Effect sensor.  Turns on and off in the proximity to a magnetic field.

So first thing is  get some 5mm diameter magnets and set them into the Gearwheel cam. ( thank you Ebay)

My initial design worked well and was easily constructed but it used a relay to mimic the rubbish park switch.

Although this relay was very good quality and would easily last 2,000,000 or more operations it defeated the idea of having a non mechanical switch.

So how to re-create a mechanical change over switch using transistors (or other psychic phenomena) 

Keeping the power running whilst the dashboard switch is flipped to park is easy. Series power TRansistor from 12V to the NG park wire on the switch.

But (there is always a but) the original system has a brake to stop the motor dead in its tracks. On a big motor this is called regenerative braking but on a small motor it s called plugging.

I couldn't make a 'normal' TRansistor operate this brake. Partly because I did not know the voltages or current required or in fact what I was doing !!!

So into new Technology (for me at least). MOSFET's are not very new but are still finding applications all over the place.

The beauty of a MOSFET is that when they conduct (switch on) they have virtually no resistance across them (typically 5mi;li Ohms) and thus very little power/heat is produced. 

 

So we we now have a 'Hall Effect' sensor to see where the gearwheel is.

This drives a TRansistor to sort out the phase of the signals.

This TRanny feeds the input (Gate) of a pair of MOSFET's. One is a P channel and the other is a N channel  this simply means they are opposite sense. When one is on the other is off.

 

So when the sensor does not see the magnet the P channel allow the motor to run. The N channel is off and has no effect.

When the Hall Effect sensor sees the magnet the first TRansistor changes phase and the P channel turns off stopping current to the wiper motor but of no other effect.

However at this instantaneous point the N channel comes on line and shorts the power being produced by the wiper motor (back EMF and all that stuff) to earth.

The motor stops quicker than the quickest thing that ever stopped quickly.

When the motor is switched on the park switch is bypassed and normal service ir resumed.

I'll post a circuit drawing later on if anybody is interested. 

Hopefully all the miraculous things going ion above will fit into a very small box and fit where the existing switch goes.  

You will be glad to know that during these experiments there were fatalities.

And, it is surprising to know the Joe Lucas's smoke has found its way to China. It escaped in profuse clouds 

And yes the motor works exactly as it should.

Roger

 

 

Edited by RogerH
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^ wow ..I need to go and lay down a while.

:o  I'm impressed.. excellent ..probably ..I think (?)

 

1 hour ago, RogerH said:

I like dabbling with electronics. I haven't a trained clue what I'm doing but then what did DaVinci know when started out.

^ That's a shame really.  I would have liked to have seen what DaVinci would have done if he'd known about electronics ..when starting out.   I guess it took him a time to get going, but by that time he was into inventing weapons (whose electronics are still classified ** SECRET ** )  and for the avionics industry. 

:ph34r:

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Panic - more smoke.

I was praying that my simplistic circuit would work for longer.

There was a dodgy bit of circuitry that relied on the two Mosfets not being on together. That didn't last long.

So a few mods and playtime again tomorrow.

 

Roger

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Letting the smoke out is half the fun Roger - and really it's the only way you learn.  Don't make it too complicated. Simple is best. 

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You may jest but many many years ago a friend of mine, who rated himself as an electronics whizz, built a car alarm and immobiliser for his then brand-new Ford Corsair.  He made the mistake of using an SCR as part of the circuit (Silicon Controlled Rectifier - a relatively uncommon component back then) but without knowing enough about its characteristics.

He demonstrated his car to us and deliberately operated the alarm, at which point the cabin filled with white smoke as the SCR locked on and fried the wiring loom. It would certainly act as a theft deterrent but perhaps not in the way he intended. :huh:

Only frantic disconnection of the car battery prevented the vehicle ending up as shown in Tom's picture. 

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31 minutes ago, RobH said:

You may jest but many many years ago a friend of mine, who rated himself as an electronics whizz, built a car alarm and immobiliser for his then brand-new Ford Corsair.  He made the mistake of using an SCR as part of the circuit (Silicon Controlled Rectifier - a relatively uncommon component back then) but without knowing enough about its characteristics.

He demonstrated his car to us and deliberately operated the alarm, at which point the cabin filled with white smoke as the SCR locked on and fried the wiring loom. It would certainly act as a theft deterrent but perhaps not in the way he intended. :huh:

Only frantic disconnection of the car battery prevented the vehicle ending up as shown in Tom's picture. 

How very "James Bond"

that made me giggle !

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1 hour ago, RobH said:

You may jest but many many years ago a friend of mine, who rated himself as an electronics whizz, built a car alarm and immobiliser for his then brand-new Ford Corsair.  He made the mistake of using an SCR as part of the circuit (Silicon Controlled Rectifier - a relatively uncommon component back then) but without knowing enough about its characteristics.

He demonstrated his car to us and deliberately operated the alarm, at which point the cabin filled with white smoke as the SCR locked on and fried the wiring loom. It would certainly act as a theft deterrent but perhaps not in the way he intended. :huh:

Only frantic disconnection of the car battery prevented the vehicle ending up as shown in Tom's picture. 

Thank you Rob,

that puts my little whiff of smoke into perspective.

 

Roger

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8 hours ago, RobH said:

 

Only frantic disconnection of the car battery prevented the vehicle ending up as shown in Tom's picture. 

What a Renault !!!

wow close run thing, that would have rendered the car valueless .

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