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RogerH

Oh no ..............

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Hi Folks,

I'm doing a rebuild by stealth. Had a great week-end away with some of the London Group.

Had a couple of problems. Firstly the speedo started to play silly so and so's.

Needle all over the place then dead. then alive then dead again.

Took the drive cable out this morning and found the square end had quite a lot of wear. It also does'nt go in as deep as it could.

The new cable is a fraction longer.

 

Also yesterday the overdrive didn't. It would not overdrive very well but it certainly wouldn't overdrive at all.

The solenoid works well and the alignment lever looks good.

 

Driving around this morning getting parts from Moss etc I had the tunnel off. Apart from getting very hot I noticed that the gearbox sounded like a box of spanners rattling around.

 

So in about 10 minutes I shall be removing both for major surgery.

 

Has anybody got any suggestions of where to get GB and OD rebuilt - London area of possible,

One suggestion was Hardy engineering in Leatherhead.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH

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Roger, oh dear doesn't sound good. I got Pete Cox to do mine , he was at that time down at Moss regularly so easy drop and collect. I believe he's in the Birmingham area now, so doesn't meet your criteria, however he was a lot less expensive than London alternatives and other specialists who farm out the work anyway.

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Hi Mike Papworth he is in Coventry Home of Triumph's He did my Tr6 box and overdrive he is good and competitively priced

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Roger.

You do seem to be getting deep into the sh*t these days.

Hardy engineering is just round the corner from me, & that is where I took my T2000 overdrive to be refurbished, & upgraded to TR spec.

They did a great job - very professional bunch of guys. They are particularly keen on Healy 3000's, but like to work on any classic.

I would say that they would not be the cheapest option but "you pays yer money & yer takes yer choice" (as they say)

(who ever "they" are)

 

Bob.

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Well, the GB and OD are out. And there are some funny things indeed.

The bronze bearing carrier has two major indents in the fork pin ring - so the bearing wasn't rotating as a whole. The bearing itself spins very freely though (lots of practice).

 

The fingers on the clutch pressure plate are seriously worn on the bearing contact area.

 

Many thanks to all the forumites that have contacted me. I shall follow up on a couple of leads tomorrow and see what transpires.

 

I'm looking forward ever so much to refitting the GB back in the car :o

 

Roger

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In the last 44 years, Pete Cox has re-built literally thousands of gearboxes and overdrives for members of the club (and others). And he has run seminars on this at Internationals. Worth asking Moss if they are shipping anything up to Brum.

Ian Cornish

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Roger, give me a shout if you need a hand getting it back in as I know its easier with 2 sets of hands and good luck getting it sorted.

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Hi Robin,

that is very kind of you. I removed it with the help of the engine hoist.

Putting it back will be more challenging but I think the hoist will help again.

 

The balance point of the GB/OD is about 1/2" forward of where the OD joins the GB - so the lifting strap will just miss the dash (I hope).

 

Roger

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What ever you do, you just know that you will spend the first 3/4 hour struggling to get the gearbox splines lined up, and then just when you are completely knackered, it will suddenly just slide on - as nothing was ever wrong !

 

Bob.

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Roger,

After taking my gearbox out 6 (or is it 7?) times now, I found the easiest way by far was to get an extra pair of hands to help....Last time with one holding/guiding and one "wiggling", it went back in a treat!

Simon

Edited by simonjrwinter

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Hi Folks,

here are a few pics to show some of the problems inside the clutch etc

 

The taper pin is shown here fitting into the top of the fork quite nicely but not perfect.

 

 

 

Here are a couple of pics showing the taper pin. The black line is a crack on the surface of the pin The cross section pic shows how far the crack goes into the material. The shiny line between the red arrows is the remaining good metal

 

 

 

 

The next few pics are the bearing carrier. The indentation are caused by the fork pins pressing on the same area constantly.

 

 

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH

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I would be interested to see how elongated the cross-shaft holes in the clutch housing are and/or how worn out the shaft is ? When my taper pin broke, the shaft was ok but there was a good 2 mm of play in the GB clutch housing holes

Edited by Geko

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Hi Stef,

I haven't measured the hole for elongation (i'll do that tomorrow) but the shaft is spotless.

I had single bearings at each end of the shaft and there was a miniscule amount of play but nothing to worry about.

 

Roger

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You seem to have been fortunate to remove the cross shaft pin before it broke, though considerately less fortunate in other respects. Hopefully your luck will improve from now on.

 

Those cross shaft pins are a right nuisance. On the 4A I had one made in a tougher alloy steel and it has been OK since. At the moment I am in the process of reconditioning a 3A gearbox and of course the cross pin has broken so expect to have some fun removing the fork and shaft. I was about to make all the pullers that are needed for the complete restoration but the failure of your car's suspension bracket (and a metaphorical kick up the rear from Stewart) has caused me to divert attention to mine. So far the front right suspension is in bits.

 

Good luck with fixing your car.

 

Tim

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All this talk about gearboxes has enthused me to finaly strip my Hillman Aerominx box.

It needed to be stripped in order to re-assemble the 3/4 synchro hub which was missing half it's balls & springs.

Having got it apart I also found a broken up roller race between 1st motion shaft & mainshaft. everything else seems to be in remarkably good condition.

tomorrow I shall start looking for replacement bearings.

 

 

 

 

Bob.

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Thanks Alan.

Already tried them - they can do the main ball bearings, but not the caged needle in question. (Hyatt.121)

Have found an american company who does them, but no joy here so far.

I am thinking about turning up a plain bush to use instead, as the surface of the main shaft part (Inner) is not that good.

So current plan is to polish up the mainshaft as much as possible (on a lathe with fine W & D) make a bush to be a tight fit in the 1st motion shaft, then bore it to match the main. I have done this once before on a TR4 gearbox - I was wishing to graft the O/D unit from a knackered TR3 box onto a good TR4 non O/D one. At the IWE 1976 Pete Cox happened to have in the boot of his car a damaged TR4 O/D mainshaft. I obtained it for next to nothing.

I then got a machine shop to grind down the damaged part (the inner bearing surface to 1st motion shaft) by the minimum ammount to get back to a good surface. Then I made up a bush to suit. It all worked very well.

On the Hillman the damage is minimal - just a slightly rough surface, so hopefully it will polish up wOK while keeping reasonably parallel.

Only problem is finding some suitable material from which to make the bush I only have brass to hand, I'm thinking Bronze would be better, cintered or otherwise.

 

Seem to have waffled on a bit - sorry !

 

Bob.

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