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Clunking - Diff re-build suppliers ?


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Good morning

 

I have suffered from a clunking at the rear for a while now, nothing too serious and have checked all the usual's.

I have CV drives, fairly new splines/hubs - new prop shaft / yokes etc,.and have checked the diff mounts - all good.

The last component is the diff and I have a reasonable slack movement at the nose end of the diff when turning the prop shaft.

So my suspicion is - planet gears ? - anyway I think its time to have the diff re-built. It's done + 170,000 miles from new

and never been touched. So it's done well.

I don't want an exchange unit. I would much prefer to have it re-built properly by a specialist.

Doe's anyone have any recommendations please ?

 

Thank you

best

Bill

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Bill,

 

Pete Cox is one of the best in the business and has recently retired as Director of Moss (London) but still does rebuilds; he's done my 3A's gearbox/OD, axle/half shafts and my last TR6's diff all to a high standard - PM me for his email/telephone number.

 

Speak with Alec Pringle and many other forum users for further recommends for Pete.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Don't eliminate the rear splines without a double check. Mine are very new but if not really really tight, and with no lube on the taper, they will clonk like a diff.

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Pete Cox did my diff, box and OD this year and another diff , good job reasonable price , good guy.

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Pete Cox has rebuilt quite a considerable number of diffs, gearboxes and overdrives for me over many years.

 

These are old units we run, they were rarely perfect and oil tight even when new - and that can be one, two, three hundred thousand miles and anything up to 60 years ago . . . . .

 

Pete isn't perfect either, I've known him make the occasional mistake now and again - and he's always sorted out the problem p d bloody q and at his own expense too. On both counts, in contrast to some specialists I could think of.

 

Value for money wise, he can't be faulted - in my view he seriously underestimates the worth of his endeavours, another contrast to many classic specialists. As many of us can testify, he's also a huge help in lots of other ways when it comes to keeping our old TRs on the road with limited means.

 

He is currently away on holiday, but I do know that his order book was pretty well cleared when he toddled off to Spain so he should be fairly quick in turning round work when he returns.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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I'd beg to differ on that score Neil - I've seen some very good jobs and good value from specialists such as Roy Talbot, and I've also seen some total **** rebuilds at wildly inflated prices from some other TR suppliers.

 

It is difficult to credit just how bad a job some commercial folks seem able to make of a gearbox or axle rebuild - speaking now from first hand experience of driving the car with rebuild unit fitted, and then inspecting the assembly on removal. When I say total **** that is just what I mean.

 

Caveat emptor.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Hi,

Before you go rebuilding your diff, check out the rear diff mounting studs.

 

I had a clunk on take up in my 4A (have also heard of it on 6's), which sounded like a u/j gone, but it turned out that the weld attaching one of the rear studs to the chassis had snapped.

 

Diff out, and half an hour with a welder, clunk gone.

 

Mine showed itself only when jacked up, if you check it on a ramp, it may not be visible.

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Hi all again

 

Andrew - thks for the details - As he's on holiday, I will try Neils suggestion as I need this turned around quickly.

I've now taken the diff off - the mounting studs are all very good, but I did find the 2 rear rubber mounts had come way slightly from their metal sleeves, so that can't have helped matters. Nevertheless it must be the diff that's causing the clonking. I've taken the cover off and although I can't go any further - nothing seems amiss, except a small amount of play of the planet gears, but I don't know if that's acceptable or not. I would say in response to the above comments, that it's a bit of a lottery whoever you choose even when you ask all the right questions. You still won't know for sure until it's done & fitted. Anyway I have to make a decision. So off to Lincoln with a diff in the boot. Lets hope, no clonking, no whining and no leaks afterwards. I'll let you know in a week or so. Costs ? - all seem to be about £450/2 days work + parts.That's a big Ouch..but if done right I won't complain.

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Bill are you running wire wheels? If so I am sure it occurred to you that they can be the source of clunking when their splines and hub splines are worn out.

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Hi All

 

Update - I've taken my diff up to Lincoln and given it to Matt Smith. The diagnosis is, that the planet gear/shaft and bearing carrier are well worn, which would account for my clunking. So in one sense I'm relieved as it supports my belief that all the other possible issues have now been eliminated. The cost ? mm don't know yet, but I'm confident that whatever the cost, it will be money well spent. I'm now just waiting the repairs to be completed, go and collect / then fit with new poly mounts etc, and hopefully all will be resolved.

 

I'll advise more when completed.

 

Best

Bill

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Two Diff rebuilds ago I had mine rebuilt after loosing 3 teeth off of the crownwheel (too many standing starts at sprints) by a racing team garage, who asked... "What do you want Lash or whine?"

Edited by Denis
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Mine will be done soon, check out the play in mine :blink:

 

[url=http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/clarkesville2002/IMG_0751_zps8581f58b.mp4][

Edited by Clarkey
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