HeswallTR3 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 I went for a short run out the other night, only to come to a halt about 2 miles from home. I immediately thought fuel, checked the tank 1/4 full, checked the filter between carbs and pump, clear. The fuel glass bowl had a bit of crud in the bottom, this has been there forever, took the bowl off and cleaned. This helped me see that the fuel was not being dragged into the pump. I took the pump off this morning for closer examination, I do get suction, but only when the lever actuated by the cam is at its extremity. Do I need a new pump, is there a refurb kit., or as is often the case with me am I missing something more obvious Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Search on here for Dave Davies. He will refurb your original at a very reasonable rate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 DD @ ohsevennineohnineseventhreesevenfivethreeone Brilliant guy, but you may not wish to be off the road while he refurbs it Ask him if he has an exchange or some other solution as he is very helpful The repro pumps are not as good so try not to go that route Actually, your own pump may work perfectly when you refit it once you get the fuel through to the carbs but a new diaphragm is a wise precaution if it has never been serviced Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) Keith ~ I fully rebuilt mine with with a kit of parts from Moss. It's easy to do. If you bring the pump over to Bangor I'll do it for you. Tom. Edited June 29, 2014 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Dave rebuilt a 3A pump for me recently, despatched back to me the day after it was received - he knew it was relatively urgent, but that I rate as truly amazing service. Posted out of here Monday afternoon, back on the car Thursday lunchtime . . . . . All pukka components, no modern repro parts, proper job. Looked like brand new. It doesn't get any better, quality or value wise. I have carefully scrutinised a current production rebuild kit with an original. Thanks a bunch, but I'm not going to prat about with inferior components as long as i can get a proper job for ridiculously reasonable money. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 I bought a refurb kit from the TR Shop April last year, got new diaphram, & valves. there is not much else to go wrong. easy to fit, been working just fine since. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) FWIW Unfortunately the repair kits do not contain all the relative parts to refurb the pump. They are short of the oil seal and it tends to get damaged when you remove the diaphragm shaft. The two lugs that engage in the operating arm can tear the seal so care needs to be taken or have a seal ready. There are two types of location for the flap valves, one is peened and the other has a tiny arm located by screws. If it has been repaired before and of the slot peened type there aren't that many tomes you can get away with it as the alloy housing goes brittle end the retaining lip may break off. There was a batch of repair kits with duff rubber flap which self destructed for fun due fuel issues. I have heard of people accidently fitting the fuel pump with the pump lever under the cam lobe which doesn't help them much. The bronze type lever is the best type to have as the laminated ones tend not to last long and can damage the cam lobe meaning a blanking plate and electric pump or cam replacement. Given that there was **** in the filter bowl there is perhaps a piece lodged in one of the flap valves. Just a few tips to avoid unnecessary anguish. Rgds Rod Edited June 29, 2014 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 FWIW Unfortunately the repair kits do not contain all the relative parts to refurb the pump. They are short of the oil seal and it tends to get damaged when you remove the diaphragm shaft... The kit from The Roadster Factory does contain the oil seal -- the only one that does as far as I know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 The pump looks the obvious culprit, but may not be. Just check there isn't a fuel blockage at the tank end. Sometimes debris/rust flakes in the tank can momentarily block the outlet, bringing the car to a grinding halt. Near the pump, extend the fuel pipe to above tank level with a piece of rubber fuel line. A good puff down the line (or use a bike pump) clears anything sitting over the outlet. Regardless, it never hurts to rebuild the pump every so often with a new oil seal and E blend compatible diaphragm. The difficult rear bolt responds to a 1/4" drive socket. Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 ...I have heard of people accidently fitting the fuel pump with the pump lever under the cam lobe which doesn't help them much. The bronze type lever is the best type to have as the laminated ones tend not to last long... Check how these layers are put together and are held in place: when I started my TR's resto, there was a topic here about failure at this point (I don't know what the proper English word is for the gizmo, rivet-ish item that hold the layers together) : the layers came apart. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 The kit from The Roadster Factory does contain the oil seal -- the only one that does as far as I know. I bought a repair kit from Australia that contained the oil seal. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Keith Unless your tank is empty or the car parked on a slope the fuel should arrive at the pump by gravity when the engine is not running. If when you disconnected the fuel line to the tank from the pump and did not have petrol pouring out before you plugged the pipe I would suggest checking that the fuel filter has not collapsed internally if it is on the suction side of the pump. An internally collapsed fuel filter would prevent fuel arrival at the pump. Cheers Alan Edited June 30, 2014 by Kiwifrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Guys Yep! I am one of those unfortunate TR3A owners with fuel pump problem. Mine let me down in Perpignan yesterday and resulted in a hire car home after the car was picked up on a recovery lorry and brought just into Spain, all at the expense of my insurance company as I have Continent wide roadside recovery.Now I must wait for about a week to have the car brought to my house on a car transporter. On first inspection of the stoppage just 50 yards out of my hotel, I thought Sparks, but no that was O.K. so it had to be fuel,glass bowl was clear and full, but removal of rear carb supply pipe showed no fuel coming through when using the solenoid starter. So test mech. lever and no resistance felt, so thought is diaphragm has gone. Not surprising with all those different fuels (not E10 ) in France but had to use 98 and my car don´t like that, spits and *arts and wont idle nicely. So endeth my holiday to Stelvio, but boy! what an experience not to be missed, did 2600 miles to point of trouble with 650 miles to home in the hired car.Went over Stelvio like it wasn´t there, easy when compared to the Gavia Pass the most dangerous drive of my life. Advice to Andrew for next year, ¨don´t even think about Gavia for the LHC¨. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) ...So test mech. lever and no resistance felt, so thought is diaphragm has gone. Not surprising with all those different fuels (not E10 ) in France...The diaphragm of the rebuild kit I used (TRF) is from Effbe (http://www.effbe-diaphragm.com/en/). As far as I can tell it's made for whatever a modern fuel can throw at it -- but they're cheap enough that one can afford to carry a spare diaphragm. It's probably easier to change a diaphragm in place by removing the top of the fuel pump than to take the pump off the block -- one could possibly do this as roadside repair. Sorry to hear about the troubles, Dave. It's been fun following your trip. Edited July 1, 2014 by Don H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Don and all I checked my spares box today and there it was my AC fuel pump repair kit marked BD2 1524507. In it are 12 parts including the diaphragm, ( stamped Genuine AC with A3 on the actual rubber) all joints and valves, but no filter for the top of the glass bowl, good job I kept my old one which is undamaged. Has anybody any experience of this kit? especially Stuart. Thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Don and all I checked my spares box today and there it was my AC fuel pump repair kit marked BD2 1524507. In it are 12 parts including the diaphragm, ( stamped Genuine AC with A3 on the actual rubber) all joints and valves, but no filter for the top of the glass bowl, good job I kept my old one which is undamaged. Has anybody any experience of this kit? especially Stuart. Thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 I never bother with any of the kits now, just send all my pumps to Dave Davies as its more cost effective and I know he always does a very good job. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Don You being a LHD vehicle like mine, will know about the lack of access to the pump because of the steering column, so I will take your advice when my car comes back to replace the diaphragm through the top and not remove the pump from the block because of that rear bolt. I have tried to contact EFFBE with their attached problem questionnaire, but it won´t accept the address so I will send an e mail direct to their french agent, as it sounds a better product for future sojourns into France etc. than the standard genuine spare part I have from AC. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Don You being a LHD vehicle like mine, will know about the lack of access to the pump because of the steering column, so I will take your advice when my car comes back to replace the diaphragm through the top and not remove the pump from the block because of that rear bolt. I have tried to contact EFFBE with their attached problem questionnaire, but it won´t accept the address so I will send an e mail direct to their french agent, as it sounds a better product for future sojourns into France etc. than the standard genuine spare part I have from AC. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Don I tried to send you a PM but it says you can´t receive any more, so PM me with your e mail address and I will reply. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 I never bother with any of the kits now, just send all my pumps to Dave Davies as its more cost effective and I know he always does a very good job. Stuart. Hin Stuart Thanks for your reply but I would need their address details please. PM me if you don´t want it on the forum. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Don You being a LHD vehicle like mine, will know about the lack of access to the pump because of the steering column, so I will take your advice when my car comes back to replace the diaphragm through the top and not remove the pump from the block because of that rear bolt. I have tried to contact EFFBE with their attached problem questionnaire, but it won´t accept the address so I will send an e mail direct to their french agent, as it sounds a better product for future sojourns into France etc. than the standard genuine spare part I have from AC. Dave Dave, the name EFFBE is on the nitrile-rubber coated fabric diaphragm material. I don't know that they made the actual part itself, and in fact I doubt it. Somebody else is making them for the vendors to put into kits. I've not seen a Moss kit, and for all I know their diaphragm is the same red rubber-coated fabric part. You can see part of it here: An original diaphragm is probably only a collectible at this point -- I'd only use modern materials for modern fuels. Inbox cleared out a bit -- should be room now. I didn't realize I was that popular... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 If anyone wants to source the Oz fuel pump kit with modern materials and everything in it, the maker is Goss p/n 966VC. Been using their kits with success for ever and a day, although the current TR has an electric pump. Viv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HeswallTR3 Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Thanks very much for all your responses, I spent much of Sunday just tinkering with the pump, finally decided that the problem was the seal in the seat of the pump which had worked its way adrift. Put it back together and it worked fine, only to notice that fuel was weeping. On Monday I rang Dave Davies who had one available, as I work in Warrington it was only a short hop to Leigh where I exchanged my old pump and a very reasonable amount of folding for a lovely refurbished one. Got home at 6.15 had tea, pump in car by 7 just enough time to meet up with the wirral triumph appreciation society ........top bloke that mr Davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Top bloke he most certainly is. Bearings as well as pumps. I can't see the merit in fart arsing about with diy kits when Dave does such an incredibly good job for such ridiculously reasonable money. Gift horses and amateur equine dentistry. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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