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3A rear spring removal problem...

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There is probably no limit to the odd and inexplicable things done to our cars by POs over the past 50 odd years. My example and plea for help, is as follows.


A rear spring on my 3A has gone 'flat' causing the front offside to drop by an inch or so. Removal of old and replacement with a new pair is a pretty straightforward exercise. Unless of course a PO has welded the head of the pin supporting the front of each spring to the chassis (see photo below).


As a result, the pin cannot be prised away from the spring and out of the tube in the chassis. Neither can the spring be prised off the pin because the body is in the way. Now, there may have been a good reason for this (happy to hear from you long term owners) but a solution is needed.


My mechanic and I have come up with a couple of options (that we are going to think about until the winter!). Worse case, this may involve grinding off the weld / head of the pin, cutting through the (sound) chassis from below and heating up the tube in order to free the pin (there's not a lot of room for manoeuvre down there). Of course, if there is as much Waxoyl in the chassis frame as on it, I believe that the chances of a spectacular blaze and one less TR on the road are pretty high.


So, has anyone had to deal with this problem? There's bound to be someone...


Many thanks!







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Hi Miles,

haven't a clue about your pin, although grinding it off sounds good to me.

The waxoyl inside the chassis probably will not ignite as all the white spirit carrier would have evaporated long ago, It will produce great amounts of smoke though.

If you have any doubts you can always purge the chassis with CO2 from the mig welder.



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Check out the Technicalities CD these options have been covered there, and as Neil says a rear body lift after removing the body fixing bolts maybe your easiest option.


Mick Richards

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Tub lift is the easiest option, clouting the pin is not a good idea as it is possible to distort the chassis (They arent as strong as you think at that point.) You will probably still have to cut the spring end through and then carefully cut the bush eye off the pin as they are usually seized solid as well.


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Curious to know why you would want to weld the head of those pins to the frame. The head of the pin has a flat that butts up against a tab on the frame to stop it turning. Perhaps that tab got destroyed in a previous pin removal exercise and welding the pin to the frame was plan B.


With all 20(?) bolts removed I bet you could lift the tub a few inches without disconnecting anything. Maybe the fuel line at the rear will need disconnecting if there is not enough movement in the fuel line/hose.


Getting some of those body bolts out can be a project if they have been in there are long time. Those two countersunk headed bolts under the seat rails at the rear of the passenger space especially. Stuart has a great trick for dealing with those but you need the carpet out of the way since things get red hot.


If those pins have been replaced in the past dont assume they will be seized into the tubes. You might get lucky and once the pin head is free from the chassis the pins might just pop out without too much drama.



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Lifting the body is possible and I have done it. I replaced the bolts with stainless steel and it has been OK. The body does not have to lift very far and I left the doors wedged closed.


The pins will not come out. I had a brand new chassis once upon a time and the pins would not move. They were always a very tight fit and some rust as well and it will be solid.


Good luck,



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Just a note to the "original UK car" brigade, the 3 US dry state cars I have rebuilt over the past so many years, the pins mentioned in this thread pushed out without hammers, lifting body shells or expletives.


Removing the tiles from my kitchen floor that I fitted over 30 years ago is a different story, what an orible job. Perhaphs the proff has a formula?

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Lift the body to get some room to remove the spring and give some space to work.

It looks as if the threaded hole in the pin is intact find a nut and bolt and insert so that the nut and bolt ends are a close fit so you can get a socket to fit.

get a side cutter with small or worn disc and cut through the weld, slowly and carefully till the weld is cut fully round the pin. Adremel works for this but will probably take many discs.

Now weld the bolt nut and pin together so that you can get a bar and socket to fit without slipping. Gets heat into the pin squirt some Plusgas around both sides.

Drill a tapered hole in the outer end of the pin enough to keep a drift in place


Apply Plusgas or similar and leave it over night from both ends using a plasticene formed cup to hold a puddle of releasing agent. Apply heat with a blow lamp ( not a gas axe) and add spray Wd 40 two or three times. allow it to cool down and repeat with heat whilst waggling box spanner, better still if you have a reversing "rattling gun" try back and forth a few times. If you get movement use an air chisel with a drift pin on the outer end of the pin at the same time as using the rattling gun. This way you rotate at the same time as pushing the pin with vibration, with luck you will get it out given time. Useful tip is to clean off the pin part way out, lubricate it and and drive it back in this has the effect of getting more lubricant into the tube. Drive it fully out after this hopefully. PLease please resist the temptation to use a lump hammer at this stage as a random hit may bend the pin. If it will move at all, it will come out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Parts needed,

Air chisel with drift end.

Air ratshit gun.

Five hands.

16 cans of "Come out ya bastard" (you'll need to import this from Australia)

Plan B

Mag drill with numerous drills and cooling system.



Do not, repeat, do not use a 45lb lump hammer as you will damage the fragile chassis as Stuart pointed out and open a big can of worms. Do it wrong and you run the risk of serious damage to the chassis!!!!



This was how I did one such set so it does work, just take time and think about each stage before you do it.

Edited by Rodbr
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I agree with Peter, on my ex US car the old pins slid out no problem.


But for your problem, the key thing is not to damage the pin because you will need it - so lift the body has got to be the best option.


There is plenty of advice on the forum on how to do that.


Rgds Ian

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On a UK car, the chance of the pin coming out is pretty slim.

As suggested, lifting the body is the best (and safest) bet.


I can tell you this now, but when, about 1965, the right rear spring broke on my TR2, I couldn't remove the pin, so I cut away enough of the bodywork to permit the spring to be removed slid off the pin! Not what one would do nowadays, but back then one had to keep the car moving!


Ian Cornish

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Are you certain that the shackle pin is welded in place?

I am not convinced.

The weld I can see in the photo is the weld of the tube,

into which the shackle pin fits, to the chassis.


Still not an easy job to remove - refer to advice above.

If lifting the body is an option, then go for it.

You can rig up a puller in the inside of the pin using the

threaded portion of the pin.

It's only a 1/4" UNF so the puller isn't going to do the job

on its own, but it helps while you bash the other end of

the pin.



Edited by TR 2100
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Is that right? These springs are held on by pins whose diameter is 1/4in. Surely not!

No thats the thread size of the hole in the end of the pin thats supposed to take an extractor to pull them out with. On UK car :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: not often!


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Fantastic responses from all and no more that I have come to expect from the Forum.


Interesting that AlanR thinks the weld shown may be that of the tibe into the chassis; I may have been too hasty in my assessment but there is a good chance that the pin is pretty solidly embedded in any event.


Much as I am attracted by Ian's and Rod's robust approaches, I think I will try the tub-lift option first!


And thanks Mick for mentioning the technicalities CD - something I often forget to consult.


Thanks everyone.



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  • 7 years later...

Definitely modified by PO as it was never done by the factory and has caused all sorts of problems over the years.


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The method of removal of the pin I used as a last resort was recommended by Neil Revington. Cut a neat hole in the chassis below the pin. Heat the tube surrounding the pin and drift out the pin after following one of the above methods. It worked for me and the pin came out reasonably easily. Then neatly weld a patch. 
If you have no other option this does work. 

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