david c Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 To avoid asking too many dumb questions I thought I would try Googleing this one, So having had a go I give up. back to begging help from proper people. What I am trying to do is fit the inner and outer weather strips to the doors, glass still in. what is the best method, fit clips to the metalwork then press in the seals, or fit the clips to the seals and then pull them up on the the door? or is there a better way? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I've only ever done it with the glass out. I held the seal in place and pulled up the clips from below using the Moss tool (I think it was). Held the clips in the tool with a little bit of Blu Tack. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 It's possible with the glass in with regulator studs off the glass channel and loosened glass run channels. Not having the special tool I used a piece of "J"-shaped scrap metal from an old bracket held by a vise-grip where the clips would rest at the bottom of the "J". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Hi David, the strips can be fitted with the glass insitu but set to lowest position. As Geko states make your own tool. 1mm mild steel sheet bent to either 'J' or 'S' apprx 6" long. The bottom bend is just big enough to hold the clip vertically. The top bend is for your finger. Â With the glass insitu the tool goes in at the front end and moved along. Position the seal in the correct place, locate the clip and pull up. It may take a little practice but is quite straightforward. You may also need a magnetic pick up tool to retrieve clips from the bottom of the door. Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Thats correct for the outer strip, you can see stamped indents in the lower side of the outer strip where the clips need to go, you do need to make sure that you get the clips in these positions. With the inner one you fit the clips to the door frame and then fit the strip to the clips.To give you the most clearance to do this job it is better to remove the bottom stop plate for the glass from the door. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Don't forget the door curtains at front and rear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) I just went and did this job. Which was coming to the top of the pile anyway. I just wound the glass to the bottom. Simple as that. Â Here is the tool. By the way this works great for doing windscreen and backlight rubbers also. https://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/14390286984/ Â I put the clips on the outer strip, but only engaged them by about 1mm. This leaves space, so the clip on the other side, can easily pass behind the flange on the door. You need to push down on the rubber a bit. Â Now when you pull up, you must also apply side pressure to keep the clip behind the flange. Its easy to "miss" but not hard to work the clip down a bit and try again. Â As TR jobs go I'd rate this as easy. Only dropped one clip in the door. Â My inners are repro items and the rolled steel is fatter that originally. I've had to squash it to get the clips to go over. Â I'll post a picture when I do the other side. Edited June 10, 2014 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Al I presume you trimmed the inner steel edges off to suit the door opening but left the outer edge so it goes all the way along the top surface of the door. This provides better sealing. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
do8erman Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 when I purchased my inner and outer door weather strips for my 4 the inner were bent the wrong way and the stainless was at the bottom when it should be on the top to finish the door top so I sent them back to moss when I did not hear anything I phoned to be told they were right as the stainless trim was so it fitted into the clip but I asked them to look at the photo of my 4A door top which I sent them which has not been messed with (I know this as I purchased it 38 years ago from the original owner) also brooklands book triumph tr4 @ 5 1961 to 69 page 73 top right corner shows the stainless on top ( just visible). I was then told they cannot get them with stainless top and bottom ?? so I got them back formed them the correct way round . they fitted into the clip perfectly and the door is finished properly it makes a lot of difference just looks so much nicer which is why standard triumph done it . don't know about you guys but its not hard to see why so many are not done right with advice like that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
coolie Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 hi guys , i am about to start seals on doors ,windows,chrome seals in wind screen with glass fitted !!, boot and bonnet . any advice and pics welcome best seals to buy and from where . tools and short cuts  cheers coolie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 In your debt again gents......and almost certainly not for the last time. Alan T says it is one of the easier jobs on a 4A............I'll let you know how I get on. PeeJay.....door curtains? I was thinking Venetian blinds might look tasteful, seriously though I don't know what you mean? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 The polythene sheets which keep rainwater off the winder mechanism and channel it to the bottom of the door and out of the drain holes. Part numbers 611812, 611818, 611819. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 If you struggle with this don't try a pedal-box, accelerator pedal, heater-hoses, glove-box, wiper wheel-box etc. Â These all should be easy fit things, but because of lack of design-for-production, are needlessly awkward. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 The polythene sheets which keep rainwater off the winder mechanism and channel it to the bottom of the door and out of the drain holes. Part numbers 611812, 611818, 611819. They are never very easy to fit, the originals only had a piece of cardboard at the top mounting point as a stiffener. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Don't these go between the metal window rail and the glass? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) Don't these go between the metal window rail and the glass? On a 4a there were originally two sections clipped behind the inner fur seal and the door frame and one at the front that was also bolted in with the front window slide and they just hung down inside the door. The later cars had the bottom of them them tucked into the window support channel. Stuart. Edited June 11, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Oh you mean the curtains at the door ends. I was thinking of the one that hangs below the glass. Â This morning I fitted the inner strip. This must be twice as hard as the outer because I dropped two clips. Â Spend time straightening and tuning the strip to match the door-frame. Â Its tricky to get the strip engaged with the clips as it wants to flex away from it. You have to apply side pressure as well as push the strip down. Â You also need to pull quite hard to get the clips in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thats funny I find the inner ones easier than the outers. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 It will depend on just what kind of strip you have. Â I have NOS outers but repro inners which fit, kind of. Needed quite a bit of TLC to get the right profile. If this is wrong there is no way to alter after fitting. Â They don't sit quite flat where the S-bend is. So they miss the clips you push straight down. Â Thanks for the advice to put the clips on the frame when doing inners. For about a minute I though I'd do it the other way. This would be easy if the glass was out. Â I always thought that the glass would not go in, between these two strips. Now I think it probably will. This is good if you need to get the glass out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 If you need to remove the glass afterwards you do have to remove at the very least the outer weather strip as the winder channel still attached to the bottom of the glass wont go through the gap with them both on. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thats what I thought, but Peejay posted that he always did this with the glass out. Â So it goes in but won't come back out? Surely not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thats what I thought, but Peejay posted that he always did this with the glass out. Â So it goes in but won't come back out? Surely not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 If you try fitting the glass with the metal channel on and the seals in place there is a distinct possibility that you will damage the outer seal. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) Actually guys that's probably brain fade on my part. Logically I couldn't have got the glass and winder channel in so I must have either removed the lower limit stop or disengaged the lift mech to drop the glass out of the way. Edited June 11, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thanks PeeJay.all now clear. I know this seems trivial in the scheme of things but a little good advice now and then makes awkward little jobs just that bit easier, Too late to avoid the other jobs Alan the body is already cut in two and everything stripped out of the engine bay, thats everything but the engine that is. Whether or not I can get it all back together again remains to be seen! Eternal optomist! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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