mckellen Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hi all, I have a couple of (probably) unrelated electrical problems and an almost complete lack of electrical know how... 1. An intermittent loss of the wiper / indicator / brake light circuit over the last few months. Typically everything is fine when I try to trace the fault, but not when I want to drive the car... At the weekend, I noticed (more by luck than judgement) that the circuit is fine with the ignition in the 'accessory' position, but fails in the 'on' position. A duff ignition switch? 2. More recently, the ignition light is staying on. I have a 45A alternator; 30/30 ammeter (which I have never seen move ). 12V+ across the battery terminals, rising with engine revs to about 13V (dodgy memory - needs checking). Lamp dims with revs., as you would expect. Dodgy alternator? Any help would be most gratefully received. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hi Phil, regardiung iten 1. Somebody has a thread running at present where he found that his glass fuse test OK but was infcat duff. The internal wire was simply resting on the end cap. Put new fuses in and see what happens. regarding item 2 - haven;lt a clue really. Have you tested the volts on tha battery as you increase the engine revs. Should stay apprx 14V(ish). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) ola, 1. Start with ruling out possible lose and moldy (SSX by-the-sea...) connectors about everywhere (fuse-box/switches/regulator box if still there, etc..) then ignition switch possibly faulty. 2. Regulator + carbon brushes out Overall, things are pointing at the connectors of the ignition switch Edited May 13, 2014 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Roger That was me. The current quality of glass fuses was as someone else said-craptastic. I ended up replacing the culprit with one I picked up from the scrappies many years ago. Probably the best way to ensure some quality control. Phil The two likely suspects are-the controlling fuse and as you have rightly identifed the ignition switch. First stop is your wiring diagram. what does each fuse control? If one matches all the items that are affected then it's almost certainly a dodgy fuse. I can only speak from GT6 experience where the accessories position does not exactly match any of the three main fused circuits. Your fuses may check OK with a multimeter and the caps are probably tight, but after a while, once current has passed through the element warms up and the internal connection starts to break down. I was lucky, I could predict when it was going to happen because my night dimming relay would start to chatter as the fuse started to breakdown! Since it's the easiest option change all the fuses and in the long term aim to convert to a modern fuse box. They're only a few pounds and you can also split up all the ganged circuits with more fuseways. That's top of my to do list this coming Winter. If that doesn't cure it then have another look at the ignition switch. Sorry I'm unfamiliar with the 4A set-up but I'm sure more learned members will be able to help. Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 You need to get a wiring diagram. There are several on'line sources. And study it. As wiring diagrams go there is not much to a 4A. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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