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I am the proud owner of a 1972 US TR6 with Stromberg Carburettor.  Problem is that the car refuses to run properly.

 

The engine drops dead with some "canonshots".  The engine just stops, takes off again, stops,...  When you hit the trottle the engine stops.

 

The ignition is completely renewed, the fuel-pump is new, ...

 

Can anybody help?

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Two things to check to begin with, did you get the leads on in the right holes in the distributor cap and in the correct firing order, if you're happy with this I think I would then check the timing next.

Ron

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Surely it's stromberg carbs plural. ?

What type of fuel pump and filter do you have. I assume that it's mechanical, driven from the distributor drive, does it have a glass bowl so that you can see when it's full.  Maybe the fuel delivery is erratic because of dirty fuel or a blocked filter. Although this wouldn't account for the 'cannon shots' the engine would run, then die as the fuel runs out, then fire again when it manages to clear the blockage.

 

Regards

Steve

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Believe it or not, a loose battery connection once gave me such trouble. The car ran perfectly, then suddenly would die and then restart and resume running perfectly. Sometimes it would die and restart at speed on the highway, giving a nice blast of smoke with a huge hiccup. Nice, new original ( repro to a high standard, except the cables weren't tight in the terminals ) battery cables. ???

 

Soldering the cables into the terminals rectified it for mine.

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I got the leads on in the right holes of the distributor cap and in the correct firing order.  I renewed the complete ignition and set the firing order.

 

The fuel-pump is mechanical (installed a new but original one) and I have a glass bulb fuel-filter installed just before the pump.  When the problem occures, there seems to run little fuel trough but I'm not sure wether this is normal or not.  I cleaned the carb cylinders.

 

When a loose battery-cable couold cause these troubles, can the problem continue for 15minutes?  Everything else (lights, warning lights,...) works perfectly normal at that time.

 

I have the feeling to be looking for a ghost...  I'm gonna clean the fuel-thank and fuel-lines next.  I am not sure what to look for.

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The carb dashpots are topped-up and the diaphragms are ok.  If not, could this explain the engine stops running?

 

I believed the problem was electrical too but I can't think of anything to renew.  I already changed all wires between coil & distributor, I tried using a different coil (thought the engine stopped because the there was a thermal safety which interrupted the ignition), I renewed the distributor-cap, rotor, contact-points, insulator block, low tension leads, high tension cables & spark plugs, battery is in good condition, what else can it be?

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But you have not replaced the most usual cause. i.e. the condenser. Condensers fail in very peculiar ways. For example you cannot run under 2000rpm. If you don't have success use another one. Condensers have been known not to work from new. I also think it is electrical. A missing spark and next time a quantity of fuel gets ignited at an unknown point in the firing cycle.
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Probably not the answer, but could contribute to symptoms, did you clean the new points before installing, thay can have protective film on them, and did you set by gap or dwell angle - dwell angle is more accurate.
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There was no protective film on the contact points.  I set them by gap (don't have the tools to do it otherwhise).  When the car is running, it runs smootly at it drives great...until the ghost comes in again and spoils it.  2weeks ago, the ghost came in after 70miles, the day before yesterday it came in after a 15min drive...
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I suffered from an intermittent engine and would then die after about 5 miles. Changed the points and rotor arm but didn't fix it, changed the coil and condensor problem hasn't returned in 4 years.

I do remember, many years ago, struggling to keep a Cortina running, it wasn't mine, similar symptons ,the cause was the wire connector to the points bending with heat and touching the casing. Just a thought !

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the cause was the wire connector to the points bending with heat and touching the casing. Just a thought !

What dizzy have you got, does it have Vacuum advance/retard as well as centrifugal, that moves the base plate a bit, which could cause a short as suggested above?

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The problem seems to be solved.  We've had a wonderful trip with the club and she drove 180 miles without a problem!  She even brought me home this time.  I'm convinced the condensor caused the trouble.

 

Thanks Peter, thanks Goswell.  When you're in Belgium, let me know.  I'll buy you a real Belgian beer!

 

G.

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The moral of this is always look for the simple things first.

 

When I was young my car stopped in the middle of a bridge. Having mentally nearly stripped the car down, somebody gave me a push. He then said "What about putting some petrol in the car" I said "Don't be stupid the gauge shows 1/8 full." He replied "It does not cost anything to try." so I emptied my reserve canister in the car and wo and betold it started. 1/8 full on a steep bridge is not enough. That was a lessen for my life.

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