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Choke, blocked jets or something else stopping 3a starting


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Hello All,

 

At the moment it feels like one thing after another when starting my 3a. Having sorted some starter motor power probs with new battery leads and a new solenoid to starter lead the electrical side has been resolved and all was good for a month or so until earlier this week.

 

She started fine on Monday and I drove the front wheels up onto wheel ramps so I could work on sanding, rust protecting and painting the chassis. When I went to start it to reverse off the ramps it wouldn't start, just cough, but did when back on the flat after a few tries. On Tuesday when I went to carry on the chassis work it wouldn't start at all, So has anyone had anything similar like this...

 

- It turns over strongly and will fire for 2 seconds every few tries but will then peter out.

- I have sprayed in quick start to the air filters (metal mesh) and again it will fire for a few seconds then die...

 

So my conclusion is a fuel problem as it is sparking, so I checked the fuel line between the pump and the carb and this is full and therefore presumably working, so not a fuel line blockage or pump problem...which leaves me thinking that the carb jets and/or something may be blocked from tilting it backwards and trying to start it with a nearly empty tank....(or maybe choke related?)

 

Any advice very gratefully received.

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WARNING!!!!!

I really suggest that you do not continue to repeatedly use easy start. I really isn't all that good for an engine so the problem needs sorting first. I suggest that you probably have a fuel pump problem and insufficient fuel is getting through. You say the car was up on ramps so potentially the fuel line got an air lock.

Remove the pipe from the El pumpo to carbs and put an extended hose to a can. Remove the plugs to ease the load and turn over till you have a good flow to the can. If so the pump is probably OK.

Next do one carb at a time and mark the positions on screws etc remove fuel line and take of float chamber cap and check that the needle and valve are clean and also the bottom of the float chamber is free from detreus, reassemble and do the same on the second one. Refit fuel lines.

 

Now check the operation of the choke and that the cable hasn't slipped.

Edited by Rodbr
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I had a similar problem years ago.

It was **** trapped behind the needle valves leading into to fuel bowls.

Remove the fuel bowl lids and remove the valve and clean out any debris.

While you have them off, hold something below the lids to catch the petrol and spin the engine to see if any fuel comes out. If yes then the pump and lines are probably ok. And the problem is in the carb.

 

Paul

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Thanks Gents, yes the quick start was just to see if it was firing and then would clear, but no joy with a few goes. I think, as there does seem to be fuel getting to the carbs from when I checked the line to the carb, then I'll first have to get off the bowls and remove the needle valves to clean etc...not something I've done before, is it pretty delicate and fiddly i.e. am I likely to do more harm than good being an amateur doing it for the first time?

 

thanks again.

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OK,

How long is it since it actually ran well or ran at all? It could be that with a near empty tank the fuel is time expired. As suggested take out the plugs and spin it over to be sure you have adequate flow. It will run with the neet easy start but it is not good for the engine!

Even if an amateur a slow methodical approach is whats needed. If in doubt take photos so you have a reference. go online and google for information.

Only tackle one thing at a time.

 

rgds

Rod

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did the 3A have the push pull fuel valve, I had one on my old TR2 that shut itself off in 1964 if I remember rightly, started a treat after I pulled it up again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all,

I just thought I would update you as she is now running again. Despite checking the plugs and them being dry and then the fuel lines & pressure and the carbs I concluded it must be the fuel pump just not giving enough pressure (as Rod said), so off it went to the specialist on the back of a low loader (I was already booked in as was having new wheel studs fitted into the hubs, see my other post...don't try that at home!) and they realised it was actually because it was completely flooded, to the point that it needed the fuel burning out by using an acetylene touch to ignite the fuel via the spark plug housing. Once that was done and with a new set of plugs all is well again!

So fortunately a cheaper solution than it could have been - hooray.

Just need the sun to stay out for more than half an hour this weekend to have a cruise.

Thanks again for all the advice - it helped get there.

Peter

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I would have thought spinning over without plugs and leaving it for a while preferable to using a gas axe! I am surprised that a mechanic admitted putting a gas torch close the any fuel source.

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Was the diagnosis that the cylinders had petrol in them becauset the valves in the float chamber were not working to shut off the petrol supply? Would leaving the float chambers open for a morning have the same effect?

 

Richard

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