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I've spent 3 months rebuilding my 1973 US TR6. New valves, new big end and main bearings, exhaust system,

valve job, carb overhaul.

The car runs fine.

I can't get the clutch to work. I can get the transmission into neutral, and run the engine.

When I try to shift, I'm grinding gears.

I have a new clutch master cylinder, and rebuilt the slave.

The clutch operating lever can move about one inch back and forth without doing anything.

I really don't want to remove the trans again.

The car ran fine about 4 months ago.

Maybe I have a too small slave cylinder operating rod? I might have mixed it up with some other parts.

I am just beside myself now. Really bummed out.

George.

Edited by Sparkplug
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Do you have any free play on the clutch actuating rod when the clutch is fully out ? I had the same problem on my 3A and it was because the actuating rod was too long. It could also be the driven plate rusted to the flywheel if the car has not moved in a while

 

Cheers

 

alan

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Dear George,

I note you state you replaced the clutch master cylinder as part of your rebuild.

I found a problem with the dimensions of the new pushrod and yoke assembly from a well known supplier, compared to the original.

This meant I lost what was a great clutch operation and biting point. It was resolved by re-using the old cylinder's rod and yoke which was longer.

 

I have tried to copy in my email to the supplier, but it won't paste into here for some reason.

Anyway in short, they checked their stock of TRW brand master cylinders (0.75" bore version), and indeed they confirmed there was an error. The correct dimension of the assembly is 3 3/16" long, whereas the TRW master cylinders had a rod and yoke that was only 3" long.

 

3/16" may not sound like much, but there's a large lever action on this, and it made all the difference to my clutch. I wonder if this might be your problem too..?

Good luck.

James.

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On the 4A, I had to wind the clutch rod out a lot further than the books seemed to show, before it would disengage properly.

had it up on stands, in the end, with hand brake on, which made it easier to keep diving under to wind the rod out further until I got it to release properly.

Wondered if the nice mans at Moss gave me a few extra thou of clutch lining over the original.

Has worked perfectly ever since.

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Yes, the slave cylinder is on the correct side of the plate. The new master clutch cylinder came without the rod, so I'm

using the original one. I even put a long wrench on the throwout bearing lever and tried to push it. Nothing.

It seems that even with the slave cylinder rod extended all the way out, I still need more "throw."

Could the driven plate really be rusted to the flywheel? It ran a few months ago.

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if it ran an few months ago with normal gear change, then something has fallen off or broken.

Graemes suggestion of the 'taper pin' would be an obvious starting point.

 

I think you have a 'gearbox out' situation.

 

Roger

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How does the clutch pedal 'feel' ?

 

Ie does it have the 'weight' it should or is it light to operate?

 

If it is light then I suspect Graeme and Roger are right, something has broken or come adrift, or perhaps the new MC is faulty.

 

You might benefit from looking at the slave whilst someone operates the clutch, does the lever actually move?

 

If the pascal has the right weight and the slave is operating then perhaps the plate is stuck?

 

Good luck!

 

Steve

Edited by SDerbyshire
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Thank you all.

I feel really embarrassed.

I do the work by myself, as I'm old, retired with severe back problems.

The only help I have is from my wife and daughter, when available.

I guess I panicked, getting so near the end, and having a problem that MIGHT involve a transmission removal.

It's very difficult for me to get down on the ground, and crawl under the car- then get back up again!

I tried to bleed the slave cylinder by my self, but every time I opened the bleed valve, the master cylinder would empty before I could get back up.

So, I thought I bled it good enough, but NOT! This morning I bled the system with the help from my wife, and got ALL the air out.

The clutch disengages normally now, and I was able to get it out into the driveway to start cleaning up the garage mess now.

Again thanks to all.

 

Cheers!

George.

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