Jump to content

Basic Maintenance Pull-Out - a correction


Recommended Posts

Bob LeBrocq, who, like me, was a member of the Thames Valley Group in the early 1970s, has pointed out that I had made a mistake in describing the operation of the original, shield-type thermostat.

Below I have shown what I should have written!

Ian Cornish

 

Thermostat

Hidden from sight and usually operating beautifully, it can have a major effect if it malfunctions. There are 3 basic types:

  • original bellows type with shield to cut off the path to the bypass hose when warm – these are becoming rare and, therefore, expensive;
  • bellows type without shield;
  • the modern Waxstat type.

The latter two will not prevent flow to the bypass hose when warm, so some coolant will always flow through the bypass. However, by fitting a simple restrictor in the bypass hose, one can use the less expensive modern type AND optimise the cooling! Such a restrictor should be made of a material which won’t corrode, should fit into the hose but not pass round the top bend (don’t want it falling into the pump!), can be secured in position with an external hose clip, and it should be bored with a small hole to prevent an air-lock and to permit some coolant circulation to take place. An old brass plumbing fitting is ideal.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ian, I have long advocated the use of the cork from the bottle you have just enjoyed with a 3/16 or 4 mm hole drilled through it.

Drill the cork, cut it to half its length, poke it in the bypass hose. It does not rot, is too big to migrate and cheap to obtain.

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

PS if you feel you can cope without a thermostat like the BMC racing boys, fit one of these - 11G176.

It fits perfectly and restricts the bypass hole, just like a bellows thermostat, but permanently.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI-THERMOSTAT-BLANKING-SLEEVE-11G176-AL10-/390462614657?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Link to post
Share on other sites

Peter - I'm not sure that I would be happy to use real cork, as some of those I have seen in recent years have had a tendency to fall apart, and I wouldn't want small bits of cork being circulated round the car's cooling system.

However, the modern plastic 'corks' seem much more robust.

My brass plumbing fitting has proved ideal - but it was amongst my considerable collection of plumbing parts and so was, in effect, free.

 

I have sent the correction to Nicky, for publication in a future TR Action, and Roger Hinds will be correcting the master document

 

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

There was a TSOA article on this restrictor many years ago. If I recall the suggestion was to tap the outlet from the pump, it being the correct size for the thread of a TR sump plug. Then drill a 1/8 - 3/16" hole in the old TR sump plug and screw it into the tapped pump housing outlet. Thus creating a screwed in restrictor that could be removed if you so chose.

 

I modified my own car a couple of years ago to a drilled brass 'cork' that is pushed in the bypass hose. The next cooling trial is a pipe from the side of the water pump housing to the black drain tapping. Get some more cooled water to the rear of the block. This is an idea theft from an article I read on this forum from a Morgan owner.

Cheers

Peter W

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ian,

 

An excellent article, but I must point out another error.

 

On the last page, there is a photo of a TR4/4A door restraint and it is tiltled TR4-6. In fact the TR5/250/6 has a different door, B post and door latching arrangement.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the corrections - I have noted these for Version 2!

 

Roger Hinds has spotted a few things, too!

 

If anyone else spots any error(s), please let me know via this Topic or direct (e-mail in TR Action).

 

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neil - No, not by the current Technical Editor.

However, it was written by the once-upon-a-time Technical Editor (1971-1986), was checked by one of the current Technical Team (Tony Sheach), by Steve Hall and by Roger Hinds.

I guess that this goes to show that, unlike a certain gentleman in Rome, none of us is infallible!

 

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

............and Ian C also forgot to mention he was the editor of the original Technicalities book, now in cd format, issued FOC to all members several years ago, and all new members joining and rejoining since then.

 

Having experienced first hand the technical queries submitted by members, it is amazing that most of the information sought, even today, is indeed contained in these publications. I guess that is what years of experience, trial and error, and a degree of ingenuity from many members, is all about, and sharing it is part of the club ethos of preserving the marque and keeping the cars on the road.

 

Hats off to the team who (mentioned above by Ian C) stuck their necks out, devised and produced the technical seminar on which this publication was based.

 

This seminar is soon to be made available on DVD, to fit with the other TR Technical Seminar DVDs on Lead loading, gearbox and overdrive rebuilds, and basic vehicle electrics.

 

Regards

Ian

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.