O1973 tr6 wiring diagram

[Mike C]

I'd wait for the pressure gauge. If you really, desperately want to prove it's fuel you could try cranking while spraying starting fluid into the intake-see if it fires.

I've never done this to my TR , it's always been a last ditch check on less valuable & more robust engines.

[John McLennan]

Mike, Waldi et al,

OK! We have a working TR emgine.

After much cranking, with stops to let the starter cool down, the lines started dribbling then spraying one by one and, once in the throttle bodies and the plugs refitted the engine ran immediately. Not smoothly maybe but I have yet to do any work on the throttle settings.

So, many thanks for the help and to the forum in general for having so many knowledgeable people "on tap".

So full steam ahead to try to get my first French MoT (Controle Technique), at least once the stations are open again.

Regards to all

John

[Waldi]

Congratulations John, and well done. Now if possible take her for a long ride, that will certainly help.

Just curious: Did you find and correct anything in the end?

Cheers,

Waldi

[John McLennan]

Waldi

No remedial work just a long time bleeding the new injector pipes. It was Mike that suggested that a possible airlock could reflect the fuel pulses and this may have been a likely scenario. For info, the new injector pipes are the braided type.

Unfortunately I can't get back on the road soon as, after the cars restoration I need a French MoT (Controle Technique) and the test centres are all closed. Once I eventually get a certificate I then need to register the car before I can get it on the road.

Fuel pressure test kit came this morning so I might get around to checking the pressures from pump and PRV but in the meantime it's back to gardening and house painting !

Thanks and stay well everyone.

John

[Yarm 783]

I use this one, it’s pretty much spot on: http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

 

[astontr6]

On 4/3/2020 at 6:56 PM, John McLennan said:

Hi Waldi, Astontr6,

Thanks, will take your advice and fit a relay. (Will need to wait until Motor factors etc reopen here)

The continuing story with my fuel pump. Copper washers arrived and engine ready to go. With 11.8 volts across the pump it sounds OK but I do not believe I am getting any significant fuel pressure. Slackening (slightly) the feed to the MU shows some weeping of fuel  but not at 100psi and there is no pressure behind the fuel return to the tank. (If this is to be expected)

If I take off this pipe and fit a length of clear tube the fuel only rises a few inches and if I suck on the tube I get a lot of air along with some fuel which still does not rise up the pipe. I do not know the circumstances in which the MU returns fuel to the tank so any help here appreciated. I have checked all fuel lines and there are no air or fuel leaks and unfortunately I do not have a pressure test set so can only assume I have a pump problem. Other than what I have done, is there go/no go check for high fuel pressure? Given the apparent lack of pressure I am reluctant to invest in a pressure test set up if it likely that a new pump is necessary.  For information both the MU and Bosch pump assembly have been off the vehicle for over 3 years.

So, any further tests before I order another pump?

Waldi - For your information the pump earth is wired to an adjacent body earth point rather than the loom wire.

Thanks

John

 

 

 

 

Hi John,

You state that the M/U has been off for 3years, did you check that the rotor inside the M/U turns freely, if not you could break the red plastic drive dog and the rotor could be seized? I am not certain what happens to a Bosch pump when it is stored out of petrol after having lived in petrol?

Bruce.

[John McLennan]

Hi Bruce

Sorry for tardy reply.

Curent status after getting the pump to supply pressure and the long drawn out bleeding of the injector pipes I have now run into a fuel leak issue. It seemed (past tense) to be coming from the metering unit join to the pedestal but after some advice from Neil the real source was the drain hole in the pedestal and the leak was not dripping but running laminarly along underneath giving the impression of the fuel leak coming from elsewhere.

So I now need to fit new seals to the pedestal. They were ordered over two weeks ago and have not arrived yet so I fear a possible "lost in the post" situation so I have to be patient in getting the car on the road.

So, to get back to your point, the rotor turns freely and the plastic dog is in good condition but the serial problems I have been having seem to have a common source, that of having been laid up for a number of years "dry". Does the forum have any advice for others who expect a long term lay up such as lubricants or inhibitors to stop seals and other components from "drying out"?

Regards

John