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Can I switch the top covers on the float chambers with each other - I am trying to re-route my fuel line coming from the pump, and would like to put the front float cover on the rear and vice versa - this will allow me to put the fuel feed from the pump on the rear carb. Anybody do this before?

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I want to route the fuel line from the pump up and around the rear of the block, so I don't have the supply line running under the thermostat housing on the front of the engine - purely aesthetic. Planning on using braided fuel line to do away with all the rubber connectors. Was not sure if it would affect the carbs, if the rear was the one taking the primary fuel feed from the pump.

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I'm sure it won't matter which direction the fuel comes from. Only problem may be the angles at which the pipes emerge from the float chamber tops.

 

Bob.

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Thanks for all the feedback - looks like I can do it, but advice from the tech forum seems to be to have new gaskets on hand.

Will post picture when done. it is show season here in Texas, so this was a project that should have bed done over the winter.

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  • 2 years later...

The biggest risk is fuel dripping on the starter...fuel on the exhaust doesnt catch fire, because of its high autoignition temperature....but in the starter there will be sparks and that will ignite any vapour/liquid fuel...i have seen this happen on MGs when the overflow tubes are accidentally bent ....routing the fuel line around the back of the head slightly increases the risk on a TR...just make sure the tube is secured to avoid chafing ...and that your starter has the steel band that covers the brush area in-place.

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I think fuel pipe was routed around front of engine because it was cooler and fuel less likely to vaporise in the pipe (a potential problem with ethanol/petrol mixtures I believe). Doesn't matter which carb gets fuel first because both have float chambers. Triumph may well have looked into this at the design stage and could well have had a reason to locate fuel pipes where they are. On the other hand it may have been purely as a result of how the car was put together on the assembly line. I have removed the 2 rubber connector pipes under the car and now have one single length from the tank to the petrol pump and an in-line cut off tap just before the pump. This is very useful because with a full tank it means you can simply turn off the tap and then work on pump, filter, carbs etc without having to drain tank or use a hose clamp. It also removes 2 potential leak points under the car. I have braided fuel pipe to carbs. Not sure if I like it or not. It looks nice but if you need to replace a bit of hose quickly then straightforward hose is simpler to swap over and easier to clamp up.

Good luck whatever you decide

Keith

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Thanks for all the feedback - looks like I can do it, but advice from the tech forum seems to be to have new gaskets on hand.

Will post picture when done. it is show season here in Texas, so this was a project that should have bed done over the winter.

Spot on - Do not touch until you have the gaskets in your hand.

Trial fit without gaskets before you make a final decision to do the deed. Do not waste your new gaskets in case it is all pointing the wrong way. Remember you will need the air filters fitted.

Peter W

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Beware of fuel vaporisation if you do route the fuel pipe behind the block. This was originally the installation but Triumph changed it so that the pipe ran ahead of the block because of vapour lock. It was know to Triumph employees as 'The cake shop syndrome' so I was told by an ex Triumph pass off test driver told me (drive to the local shop to buy a snack and the car would refuse to restart). My fuel pipe runs behind the block and I did originally have vapour lock problems. Rather than re-route the pipe I fitted insulation to the pipe and since then it has been vapour lock free.

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