vegard_s Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 What are the thoughts on the clutch kits being offered today? I´m about to put in an order from Moss and was wondering what people think about the B&B kits they sell, any experience with them? CLUTCH KIT, Borg & Beck, 3 piece Note: standard. (B&B no. HK966S clamping load 535dn) or CLUTCH KIT, Borg & Beck, 3 piece Note: standard. (B&B no HK9649 clamping load 400dn) / Vegard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilp3 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Morning Vengard, I read your post this morning with interest as I am right in the middle of changing the clutch on my 1973 TR6. Upon removal of my gearbox I discovered the cross-shaft pin had broken which was the route cause of my heavy clutch (hopefully). I have sourced a B&B raised finger clutch from TRGB along with all of the replacement parts needed in the bell-housing. I have however elected to fit an uprated phosphor bronze release bearing carrier and heavy duty release bearing supplied by Neil Revington. After a chat with Neil he also suggested that I fit a return spring kit for the slave cylinder which will ensure the release bearing is always away from the clutch pressure plate. The phosphor bronze bush os of course self lubricating so I have used a very small amount of copper slip on the nose cone prior to assembly. I shall post a follow up note on the forum in due course as I'm still putting it all back together. I am hopeful however that the clutch should be greatly improved following this work. I hope this is helpful. Best Regards, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vegard_s Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thanks for your reply. You have pointed out many of the same things that I've been thinking about too. Looking forward to hearing about your experience with the end result. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Please make sure that the Uprated Release Bearing is compatible with the Pressure Plate,if not you'll be doing the Clutch again after not many Miles and a Return Spring on the Slave Cylinder should not be required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I think that if you fit a return spring to the operating lever you might lose the self adjusting nature of the TR6 clutch hydraulics and you'll have to fit an adjustable push rod as per the TR4. Then you'll be into periodic adjustment of the push rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Don't put Copa-slip (anti seize) grease on any moving parts as it is abrasive its just for stopping nuts and bolts rusting together. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Don't put Copa-slip (anti seize) grease on any moving parts as it is abrasive its just for stopping nuts and bolts rusting together. Since when has it ever been abrasive? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Since when has it ever been abrasive? Stuart. Is this to do with it getting impregnated with friction material dust perhaps? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
njc Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Hi Vegard, I fitted B&B 5+ years ago and haven't had any issues yet, Some pointers from my experience: Double up the bushes on the cross shaft. There is just enough room for two per side rather than one. Definitely use a bronze bearing carrier that isnt pinned so can rotate. I don't think it is necessary to have a return spring on the slave cylinder. Also use an uprated pin between cross shaft and fork. Might also be worth putting in a roll pin 90 degrees to the pin for extra strength. Breaking pins are common failure modes. On reassembly, make sure you align the box with dowels or drill bits in the locating holes before doing up the bolts. Slightly misaligned it will reduce the life span of the gearbox and or clutch! Oh - also align the clutch plate with the special tool so it is central on the fly wheel. I would use a clutch kit as a complete set and not use a mix and match solution. Hope of some use Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan57 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Some seem to prefer Laycock to B & B - I need to have clutch thoughts for a standard CP road TR6? Any thoughts anyone??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Just about any damn clutch will work satisfactorily if it's installed properly. Alignment is critical, the cross shaft the weak point in need of careful fettling. As for 'uprated bearings' etc . . . . . you may very well think so. I'm sure they're very profitable kits for the vendors. Consider moments of force about a point, then assess the position at which the larger uprated bearings mate with the clutch diaphragm 'fingers', and compare with standard. Personally I wouldn't touch an 'uprated' bearing with a bargepole. Been there etc, learned the hard way. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan57 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) Thanks Alec - words of wisdom as always!!!! Edited April 2, 2014 by alan57 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Edwin Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Last year I put the (B&B no HK9649 clamping load 400dn) kit in my TR6 and have had no problems at all with it... have done about a 1000 miles now and very happy. Also replaced the fork, shaft (doubled the bushes) and the sleeve (standard type)... Pedal pressure is, in my opinion, not too light... but certainly not heavy.... feels almost like a modern car clutch... Cheers, Edwin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Hardly wisdom Alan, just common sense and schoolboy physics. I've never understood the fondness for Laycock assemblies. Clamping force is less than B&B which limits the power/torque throughput, at least if you expect any sort of longevity, and many of the so-called reconditioned units around nowadays are unadulterated ****. It's hard enough to find new friction plate springs, and new diaphragms disappeared years ago - modifying A N Other unit to fit is a skilled job, and time consuming (hence expensive), which is why few reconditioners will attempt the task. They just reline the plate and recycle a tired old well used diaphragm and hope for the best . . . . . The chaps at Precision Clutch can do a proper job, and it costs - but at least you do get what you pay for. B&B clutches are decent enough, the heavier option copes with a seriously grunty tuned car. QH used to make decent clutch kits too, at least in my experience, but they are not generally well regarded. Years ago some damn Yankee condemned them and it's one of those internet arguments that has been maintained regardless. I've never experienced a problem with a QH clutch in any car, and you can still pick up nos QH component for bargain prices. Alignment and cross shaft is what matters ! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.