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Hi Folks,

after last autumns battle with the inner wing where the bonnet hinge fits I now need to paint the area in a top coat.

The original finish is a 2K and I would like to replace with the same.

 

I have access to a paint supplier that can do aerosol with pretend 2K. Sadly it is not better than a normal acrylic.

I thought I found a place in New Malden that could do 2K aerosols but alas no.

However they did sell me a very small spray gun - great salesman.

 

Today I had a flash of brilliance (actually not that bright - apprx 30W) - is it possible to brush paint 2K.

Thankfully it is at the front end of the wheel arch/inner wing so not too visible.

 

What are your thoughts.

 

Roger

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Yes it is possible but you will still need to be fully protected up!!! Once the activator hits the paint it is giving off the nasty stuff...........

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Hi Roger

We've just had a new kitchen which is sprayed in 2K when finished I was given a small pot of mixed paint so I could touch up chips etc

That was a couple of months ago and when you open the pot now it is jelly like. Not sure if it would be different stuff from car paint but it still works fine and dries hard.

Cheers Mark.

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Roger,

 

Yes quite possible to brush 2 k, had my race cars in it and constantly touched up after various battles. As pointed out when the hardener is added the fumes are nasty so do outside and use suitable masks. The finish is really good and if an artisan such as yourself can't achieve an almost mark free finish I'd be surprised, also only mix a small amount suitable to complete your task, the stuff goes off and will eventually go glass hard.

 

Mick Richards

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Sounding good.

Thanks for your replies and warnings. I'll be doing down the road from McMuttley outside his neighbours house.

 

Ventilation should be OK and I may knock up an airflow mask - I'll look like a Sci-Fi B movie spaceman.

 

I imagine a top quality brush is required.

Would the paint mix be the same/similar to the spray recipe - 2 paint, 1 hardener, 10%thinners.

 

Marki, if there is any left over I'll send it to you for the kitchen - Royal Blue.

 

Roger

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No thinners and less hardener than the normal 2:1. It will still harden just take longer

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Industrially, premixed products are stored at -40C or lower to extend shelf life, some times virtually indefinitely.

You should be able to extend the life of mixed paint by say x10 by keeping it in your home freezer.

You need to follow few rules if you do this:

Allow the paint to naturally thaw back to ambient before using it. . Do not heat the container to thaw quicker. This will overheat the contents next to container wall and shorten the life. If you open the container before it is completely to room temperature you will get condensation into paint, paint will probably be thicker too.

 

Mike

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Sounding good.

Thanks for your replies and warnings. I'll be doing down the road from McMuttley outside his neighbours house.

 

 

Roger

:-)

 

They accused our cleaner of scratching their car a few years ago. You could touch it up for them.

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I had my Stag painted (sprayed) in two pack many years ago, & was given the surplus paint to use as touch up.

was told I would not need hardener. This turned out to be correct, the paint will "dry" over a day or two, and after a week was hard.

 

More recently (last year) my TR3 was painted with 2 pk, & I kept the surplus paint for touching up. I was also given some hardener.

After about 1 month the hardener had gone solid. so it is clearly hard to keep. I will use the paint as it is as, & when I need too.

 

Bob.

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Hi Alan/Bob,

I was given some surplus paint after the spraying.

It does go 'hard' when touched in but can be 'washed' off with thinners much easier than 2K with hardener.

As it is in the engine bay I want it to be as impervious as possible to the under bonnet conditions.

 

Hi Mike.

I haven't got enough to store.

 

Hi Neil,

I appreciate that 2K isn't everybodies choice but I like it for what I do. Thanks for your concern as I know there is a big celly following.

 

Can't do anything till Monday as I need to buy a quality brush. Could I use a 12" roller :P

 

Roger

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Hi Roger, I've not tried roller painting 2pk (or any other car paints) but have found foam rollers to give a good finish with domestic paints, and they come in the four inch variety. May be worth a try.

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Roger,

 

I have touched up numerous bits of my TR with 2 pack straight out of the tin. In fact I keep some handy in a jam jar for just that purpose and it still works after 8 years although it does thicken after a while and need a delicate touch of thinners. It dries like any other paint.

 

I didn't think that my artists brushette and a thimbleful justified a mask and air supply.

 

Willie

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The guy that painted mine told me that early 2-pack was like araldite and did not set unless it saw the cataylst.

 

Now the formulations basically have an accelerant to get a quick set in a heated booth but do set if left a while.

Obviously temperature dependent.

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I painted the whole engine bay with two pack left over from my re-spray no problem at all the finish is good and you can flatten with 1500 wet and dry and polish. Can't say I noticed any bad fumes at all.

 

It will obviously pay to buy a good quality brush.

 

Regards John.

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Hi Roger

You can brush 2K just don't mix it to thin or over brush it. only mix 1/4 part hardener or less and a touch of thinner if its too thick. Do one coat leave it overnight nib it down next day and give it a top coat .

Only mix as you go as it will be like jelly in the morning .Sometime garages give a little pot of 2K for touching up with a pencil brush without hardener it will dry but not cure , OK for stone chips.

2K = 2 parts. Paint and hardener or activator . If its in a aerosol its 1K or will go solid when mixed.

I don't think you will come to any harm brushing it for a short time in a ventilated space . Just my opinion , I am still hear and been painting the stuff for years. Spraying atomised pant in a confined space like a spray both is a different issue.

Cut it back and polish the next day or two before its fully harden or you will find it hard work by hand.

Mike

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Hi roger

 

You need a good camel hair brush,

 

I have tried the brush method, with 2k it seems to show on completion with a slight ring around a chip repair

Maybe I am being to fussy, I have been playing with using an air brush then flashing it over with fade out thinners to help it lay

I have had good results using this method

 

 

I also used the wheel barrow method with the wife, but she kept complaining when we went pass her mothers place

 

Pink

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Hi Folks,

yesterday I had a go at brush painting the 2K.

The first thing I found is that the paint I have (left over from the spray job) is quite thin so it may have been watered down.

The 2K hardener is quite thin in itself so the end result is a very thin free flowing fluid.

 

The brush I have is a good brush (synthetic) but probably not the best as Pinky was suggesting using.

 

Three coats gave a solid blue colour. The previous coats were various shades of grey/blue etc looking remarkably like a seascape.

 

Applying the second coat produced a reaction on the first brush stroke and the first layer started to 'curdle'. But the majority of the surface was fine.

Is there an ideal time/curing stage when to apply additional coats?

 

What was applied cured very well into a quite a hard surface.

 

Today I may but some more paint (and a brush) and start from the begining.

 

Roger

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Hi, Roger

I don't know what it was like in sunny West London yesterday but here in Derbyshire it was cold with a lot of moisture in the air. I think you need to have a "dryish" atmosphere and the the temperature needs to at least 15deg C to give you some sort of change of getting a respectable finish.

Good Luck

Cheers Phil

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HI Roger

I did a very quick search on this and second coat wrinkling unbaked is mentioned several times.

I would say: Probably you didn't leave enough time between coats.

I am not familiar with baking times etc on 2k paints, some one here will be of course.

But using what I gleaned: some of the chat forums suggest 150-200 degrees but I think that must be F = 65-90 Celsius with bakes of an hour.

For a rule of thumb you can say a chemical reaction doubles/ halves in speed for each 10C increase/decrease in temperature.

So for an example: if you say 1 hour at 80C. that's 2@70, 4@60C.....>>.64 hours @ 20C or nearly 3 days. Very much longer if starting from 150C.

Of course it maybe that some reactions never actually start at the lower temperatures. [eg Bread will never brown in a too cool oven ] Cross linking won't be very efficient anyway so paint will never be as durable as baked.

Do your own sums with real numbers shortly.

Whatever the numbers suggest a little warming could help - one of those QI garden/security/lights at 500W is going to be a pretty good local heater. OR even just a fan heater/hairdryer.

 

Mike

 

Mike

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