Fireman049 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 I've just stripped down the clutch master cylinder on my 3A. Can anyone advise me how I'm supposed to dismantle the innards inorder to fit new seals? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 There is an internal circlip holding everything in. Remove that, & the internal spring should pop everything out. If it doesn't then apply pressure to the output port from an air line (if you have one), or if not take to local garage to blow out the piston. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Louis Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Tom if you do use the airline trick make sure you aim the piston into a rag or padded area them pistons can fly a quite a rate when they go. Louis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Hi Lebro and Louis ~ Thank you for that. I've been able to remove the piston with no problem but how do I dismantle the piston and spring assembly to renew the seals? My internal assembly appears to have three rubber seals (2 large and 1 small) but the rebuild kit I bought from TR Bitz only has one large seal??? Thanks ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) That sounds wrong, there should be one large seal on the piston (plunger seal), a much smaller seal on the end of the thin "valve stem" (valve seal) and (in the workshop manual) a medium size seal in front of the piston (end seal) The rimmers web site does not show this last one see photo. certainly the most important one is the large one, so if the smallest one in your cylinder looks ok, then you may be able to re-fit. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID200454 As for how to dismantle - the spring thimble (in between the spring, & the big seal in the attached photo) has two thin springy blades which hold the piston inside it, prise these away (carefully) to release the piston, the rest will then come apart easily. To re-assemble just push back in & it should lock in. be very carefull when fitting the new seal not to damage it, use fingers only no sharp screwdrivers ! Edited March 18, 2014 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Thanks Lebro, just what I was looking for. I'll send the rebuild kit back to TR Bitz and look elsewhere. I notice your interest in shooting. I have a collection of Wincheter rifles. Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hi Tom. Yes, it sounds like you have been given the wrong kit. I got mine, (along with a million other items) from the TR shop in Chiswick. I find them very helpful, & not as expensive as some. I used to own & shoot a Winchester P14 rifle. bought as a bog standard .303 army rifle back in 1970 ish Then when .303 ammo became scarce, I had it converted to 7.62mm with a Sweedish barrel - can't remember what make. it was a heavier barrel, & I converted the woodwork to be open top like a sporting rifle. Also made & fitted a much lighter trigger mechanism, & re-shaped the bolt to not have the cranked shape. It wone me quite a few comps, & I was sad to sell it on when I decided to not renew my ticket about 10 yrs later. These days just shoot air weapons, but still have a hankering to get back to some real shooting. Also had Smith & Wesson .455 revolver (highly inaccurate), and a Browning .22 pump rifle. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hi Lebro ~ I've just dismantled both my master cylinders ~ easy when you know how!!! Thank you for your help. When I get a chance I'll PM you my rifle collection. Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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