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Hissing cylinder head!


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Team effort in design and make, good stuff.

 

Mick Richards

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Anybody now who breaks a stud can ask for one of these!

 

I just made a converter from 5/8 BSP to 3/4 BSP. When you first look at it, this is not possible because the OD of the 5/8 is the same as the ID of the 3/4. This means the inside thread has to run "inside" the outside thread.

 

This leaves a wall thickness of 1mm which zig-zags back and forth. I didn't actually think this would work at first. But it does.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/13784892654/

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I know I'm going to be sorry asking this (and especially because everybody else wondering the same thing is keeping quiet) but is the reference to 5/8th BSP to 3/4 BSP convertor as an example of what could be done with a broken head stud but in UNC instead ? Or have I misread in an inference ?

 

Mick Richards

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Not really, I was just pleased to have made the thing.

 

But if you pull out or wreck up a Helicoil then you would have to consider doing exactly this!

 

Was it Hitchcock that had the broken long stud?

Well for a while I though we might be doing this with him.

Edited by AlanT
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I didnt so much have a broken stud but a bsw threaded stud incorrectly fitted to my block. It was when I tried to torque it down that I ended up with the stud pulling out because it was only in about 3 turns.

 

There was already an old helicoil in the block that I had to remove and replace. I used 2 in tandem and it maintained full torque.

 

Stupid question of the day, I'm sure the studs were 1/2" unc, how come 5/8 or 3/4 BSP?

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Alfie baby,

 

That's why I asked the question, it confused me and I had to make the inference that Alan was making a BSP unit for another purpose but the same principle would work on the block threads although different.

 

Mick Richards

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Hello Everyone

 

In the hope that everything goes back together again ok, I have attached a pic of the broken stud and extractor as a finale !!!!

 

I have cleared a large quantity of "crud" from the waterways and a completely blocked heater pipe and hoses

 

Not too much carbon deposit on the piston heads so have just taken off the worst of it

 

Waiting for the head to be returned ready for unleaded

 

Thank you all for your help and advice

 

Nick

Edited by Revolution
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Blooming "eck" you got it out with an easy out ! First time I've seen one that didn't snap, it must have only been in there only finger tight, lucky man.

 

Mick Richards

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Just as a PS Nick, just check the liner protrusions over the block surface whilst the head is off and the liners available.Four measurements around each liner, use a depth micrometer if you have one or straight edge across the liner tops and feeler gauges to the block will give good indication if not. Should be between 3 and 5 thou along the liners without contrasting measurements side by side, ie a 5 thou on one liner alongside a 3 on the next liner may give a headgasket problem, read it up in the manual.

 

Mick Richards

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Mick

 

Thanks for the advice about the liner protrusions.....will do

 

I wouldn't say the broken stud was finger tight.....it took a fair bit of pressure to remove it

 

Must have had the WD40 "gods" on my side when I did it !!

 

Cheers, Nick

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  • 3 weeks later...

All is looking good with the rebuild, cylinder head back, skimmed, ready for unleaded....on the last lap now!

 

Guess what, I'm sure this is a really simple thing (or is that me?) but I've spent ages trying unsuccessfully to get the upper, rubber steering coupling back together again

 

I can get three of the four bolts lined up but the fourth just wont line up

 

Does the coupling have to fit a certain way as I notice two of the four holes have recesses?

 

Help please

 

Cheers, Nick

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Hi Nick,

as you know two bolts go in front to rear and two rear to front.

Put the coupling so that one of the front to rear bolts is a t 12-o-clock.

Because of the orientation the holes on the shaft are at an odd angle to the column.

 

Using a socket and wrench (preferably small) put socket over head of bolt and lever it up and inline with the hole. It will go in - honest.

Rotate the shaft 180 degrees and do the same again.

The last two bolts (rear to front direction) will go in easy as the coupling is now lined up.

 

DON'T FORGET THE EARTH WIRES. - and wire locking.

 

Roger

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Is this the one where it helps to wrap a big jubilee clip around it to close the holes together a bit?

 

 

The original Rover car version of a steering rubber coupling (not unlike the TR item) used to come new with a steel band clamped around it. Once fitted you cut the band off and the rubber sprung outwards. The bolt holes in that coupling were key hole shaped rather than round. Now there is and expensive item to reproduce in low volume.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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Thanks everyone, Roger's trick did the job .....easy when you know how isn't it!

 

Just waiting for a choke cable to arrive now and hopefully I'll be on the road again!

 

The memory of a broken cylinder head stud and stud extractors will haunt me for ever!!

 

Cheers, Nick

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The original Rover car version of a steering rubber coupling (not unlike the TR item) used to come new with a steel band clamped around it. Once fitted you cut the band off and the rubber sprung outwards.

Cheers

Peter W

Reminds me of the joys of the Hillman Imp doughnut joints in the rear halfshafts... I well remember changing one of those at the roadside, car on the standard jack :(

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